Trex 500 Build Videos

[bigbro3760]

hi bob, i'm done building w/ my t500. i'm using gy401 & ds 520 on tail. travel using spektrum dx7 is 32 on gain. whenever i pump up i have a yaw to the right (tail). but on normal hovering it's holding good.
also even w/o inputs, my gyro is blinking, but upon initialization it has a steady red lyt, after flying i can see that its blinking.
hope you can help me. tnx

[Finless]

If using travel adjust 32 is low for gain. 32 / 1.44 = 23 true gain. Thats low for a 401 on a 500. Kick that up to about 45 travel adjust. 45 / 1.44 = 32 true gain.

As for the blinking. The led blinks when it thinks you are giving rudder stick input. After you setup did you rebind the RX? This is important to do. Also make sure you have not bumped the rudder trim on the TX in any modes! Make sure all modes like hold, etc are all center rudder trim.

Bob

[bigbro3760]

Originally Posted by Finless

If using travel adjust 32 is low for gain. 32 / 1.44 = 23 true gain. Thats low for a 401 on a 500. Kick that up to about 45 travel adjust. 45 / 1.44 = 32 true gain.

As for the blinking. The led blinks when it thinks you are giving rudder stick input. After you setup did you rebind the RX? This is important to do. Also make sure you have not bumped the rudder trim on the TX in any modes! Make sure all modes like hold, etc are all center rudder trim.

Bob

i'll try adjusting my gyro.

the gyro is blinking even w/o input after flying, & i have no trims or whatsoever on the rudder. the rebinding is that i have to do.

thanks a lot, bob

[Padre]

First of all, I want to thank you Bob for making these videos. They really took the fear out of my fist build!

I have a brand new Trex 500E, when I took the tail blade grip/feathering shaft out of the box, the blade grips were already assembled. I dismantled them, as recommended in your video, to ensure grease and locktite. Before I disassembled the assembly, the grips were very smooth and effortless to spin on the FS. However, when I greased and reassembled the assembly snug, the grips felt tighter than before I started.

I have disassembled and reassembled the assembly several times hoping to correct the problem with no help. I know I have assembled them correctly. (per your video and the fact that the bearing races are labeled).

Do you have any idea what I'm doing wrong??

[Blayd]

You should still check the ID sizes of the races.. there have been reports of them being labled wrong, but that was awhile ago. Need to make sure you havent gotten ANY loctite that you used on the screws, on the thrust bearings. Its easy to do. Also, sometimes after packing with grease, the grease can give you some resistance in the bearings until they work themselves to a level of grease in the bearing that lets it move easier. Is it really tight? Or just firm. You'd be surprised at how much your tail grips will loosen up once the bearings are worked in after awhile. In fact, my tail grips are the opposite. Mine have wiggle in them. The screws are tight and loctited, but both will wiggle a decent amount. Very scarey.

[Finless]

Originally Posted by Blayd

You'd be surprised at how much your tail grips will loosen up once the bearings are worked in after awhile. In fact, my tail grips are the opposite. Mine have wiggle in them. The screws are tight and loctited, but both will wiggle a decent amount. Very scarey.

Agreed. Also understand under a spinning load they may already be fine. Pull out on the grips and try turning them. You simulate the centrifugal force of spinning doing that and if they are free to spin while pulling out on them, your OK.

Bob

[jcflyer]

Hey Bob,
I have a question, I followed the instructions and your build videos (priceless) couldn't have done it without them thanks this was my first build!!! In the head setup video you talk about the distance the manual gives you for the swash links being 21mm, and to get the mixer arms lined up straight across you had to turn the links in six full turns. Ok I had to turn mine is as well and I ended up around 19mm, my question is you were saying that Align gives those numbers for certain servo types. Why wouldn't they give the proper numbers for the Align servos that come with the kit???????

Jay

[Finless]

Just like in my PM, I have yet to build an Align heli where the links came out like the manual states. Not sure why honestly.

Bob

[Ninjaboy]

You sir are a legend... I would have paid good money for this info

[iz77]

How do I check the tension of the rotor belt.
If it's to loose, what should I do to make it tight?

Thanks in advance.

[Finless]

You adjust the belt by lossening the boom in the frames and pulling the boom in or out of the frames. As for how tight. I adjust as loose as I can get but not so loose that when you shake the tail you can hear the belt ringing or slapping in the boom.

Bob

[Viper62382]

Will these videos apply to the trex 500 model # KX017014T that I just purchased or will there be variations in the install?

[Finless]

90% will apply. The rest will have some changes like the torque tube, etc.

Bob

[Squiggy Wigginz]

+1...the shoe goo was ingenious. After much thought, I realized why you use it instead of CA.

[Gttahoe]

Your work is fantastic I'm new and relying on these videos is paramount. I need help with the FBL system (Beastx) do any vids exist?

THks.......

[Finless]

I have not done anything with a BeastX. So far only used a Vbar on my helis. However I think in the BeastX forum there are some guys that have done some and they are probably on youtube. Ask in the BeastX forum here:

https://www.helifreak.com/forumdisplay.php?f=239

Bob

[pinguin]

Setting up BeastX is really straight forward. Just follow the manual, step by step. If you still have any question, you can visit BeastX Forum

http://www.beastx.com/index.html

[firefamily5]

To begin with, please add me to the long list of appreciative folks....

I purchased the 500ESP 3G model. The head was already assembled, put per your advise, I took the blade grips off to check for locktite, etc. Here is my first quandry: the parts in my hand don't seem to match the instructions. I unscrewed the screw, and there is a washer holding the bearing in (thrust bearing, I think)...the one that comes apart...they are labeled in and out, but as noted earlier, I will double check that they are correctly labeled.

After removing this bearing, there are two more bearings in the blade grips, with space between. According to the manual, there is supposed to be a washer between the thrust bearing and the next, but I don't see it. So, a few questions, if you may:

1. Do I need to try to remove these other bearings in the grips? If so, how do I do it without ruining anything?

2. Should I have a washer there?

3. Per the photo, the brass washer is already on the head, do I need to remove it to check anything else, before I reassemble the grips onto the head?

[firefamily5]

I finished disassembly. I removed both blade grips, both copper collars, and the feathering shaft. Left inside the rotor housing seems to be the rubber dampeners, but they seem a bit big...they go from one end of the housing to the other. I don't see a feathering shaft sleeve, but then I'm a dummy who really doesn't have a clue what he is looking for...all I see inside the rotor housing is the rubber inserted into it, then the feathering shaft goes inside that.

I still have not found the washer , which is indicated as going inside of the thrust bearing.

Any advise will be welcome...I hope I won't be this bothersome for the entire build...

Gary

[pinguin]

The blade grip setup is the same as the FB head.
If after you lube and put back all the parts and the head is good, means you are done.
But if you have some gap and need more spacer, just use from your FB head.