Perfect Flybarless UflyS

[magicmarty]

they finally shipped mine yesterday so hopefully i will get them by the end of the month...dam i hate it cause there is no HK in the U.S. cause they have a ton of very good deals unlike a lot of places here...the icharger im thinking of getting is $79 at HK , over here the exact same charger is $99...if they can sell them at that price we know others can as well and still make a profit ..

[Stevemech]

The only negative side to the Henge 922 is that they weigh 15.7 grams while the walkera servos weigh 8.7.There's no comparison in performance,there very solid!I I used my stock servos ,and they work well if you don,t crash!I striped one in a month ,hardly crashed after the fbl conversion!When you do the conversion make sure to reduce the servo extent ,fbl doesn't require much servo travel.

[magicmarty]

thanks for the info on the servo travel i will remember it..i will probably do the conversion with in the next few weeks or so ..kind of looking forward to it actually but the dang weather here has been crappy so im not getting much air time as of now.

thanks n good luck..


i'll update when i get them and later on after i try the fbl conversion...

[Stevemech]

I made a YouTube video of my uflys flying in 10 to15 mph along a valley face .Shows how well the electronics stabilize the heli in flight.I've only been flying the uflys for 6 weeks, before that a cb180d.I'm not sure how to post the link,but you can find it under search ( flybarless uflys) stevekauai .

[magicmarty]

anybody know what size the motor shaft is where the pinion goes on?
the stock uflys motor..


thanks...

[jtpile]

Originally Posted by magicmarty

anybody know what size the motor shaft is where the pinion goes on?
the stock uflys motor..


thanks...

Hi magicmarty,

Here's the only motor pinion I found worth using, I believe the stock shaft is 2.3, .4 pitch. This is the only pinion I found that wouldn't strip and it works great with my TurboAce motor which I think is the best motor I've used, especially in strong winds. http://tinyurl.com/6alwyu4. See 1st page of this thread for more info. -cheers

[jtpile]

Originally Posted by jtpile

Hi magicmarty,

Here's the only motor pinion I found worth using, I believe the stock shaft is 2.3, .4 pitch. This is the only pinion I found that wouldn't strip and it works great with my TurboAce motor which I think is the best motor I've used, especially in strong winds. http://tinyurl.com/6alwyu4. See 1st page of this thread for more info. -cheers

Here's another link, not sure if that one works: http://www.microheli.com/store/produ.../products_id/4

[jtpile]

Originally Posted by magicmarty

thanks for the info on the servo travel i will remember it..i will probably do the conversion with in the next few weeks or so ..kind of looking forward to it actually but the dang weather here has been crappy so im not getting much air time as of now.

thanks n good luck..


i'll update when i get them and later on after i try the fbl conversion...

Hi magicmarty,

The servo travel does indeed need to be turned down which is counterclockwise on the aileron-elevator ext dial on the RX2435. You can see in the photos I posted showing the settings of my RX2435. You will see that the servo travel is very little; that's all needed with this flybarless setup. Also for really easy conversion pickup the servo linkages from a esky dauphin, take the metal piece of the linkages and use them with the stock Walkera Ufly servo linkages; voila perfect linkage link!!! -cheers

[magicmarty]

thanks for the info jtpile...i will keep in mind on the servo travel ..thanks for the link to the pinion as well...and the linkage tip is awesome..

as always you been a great help...


good luck n happy flying..

[jtpile]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBUEjFDyjt4&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/ame]

[magicmarty]

Very nice lighting set up...bet its really easy to see at night.Amazing how bright those little Leds can be..i have a small foam plane with lights all over it i fly at night sometimes its funny how traffic will slow up to see whats going on..lol

[jtpile]

Originally Posted by wesleyson21

What parts did you need to do it? Do you need the V370D01 swash or the stock UFLYS? I know you need the head, blade holders, and linkages.

You need the swashplate, blade holders, linkages, main rotor shaft, and rotor head set from the Walkera 370D01. I would order extra linkages and main rotor shafts. Lastly you'll need shorter servo linkages, the metal part from a esky dauphin are the perfect length without making you own, I may have shortened the threading end with a Dremel tool. All these parts can be found on HeliDirect.com. -cheers

[hcazar73]

I did it !!!! just finish test flying my new flybarless Ufly ...it rocks!!!...after many failed attempts ....including installing the rx2437v backwards!!!...it handles great!!!! ...did the henge servos..(very nice)...my only piece of advice is to get a 3/64 drill bit to widen the hole on the main shaft...than way you can use the pin that the 370 head came with .....thank you all for all your advice !!!!

[Stevemech]

I'm using the ufly swash plate,I think the only difference is the ball ends that attach to the rotor head.I took ball ends from my cb180d swash and installed them into the ufly swash.The difference is :short balls give quicker reaction,long ball: slower and easier to control.I prefer the ufly length ball,because I'm still learning.

[magicmarty]

wow it takes a long time getting parts from over seas...be two weeks tomorrow and still have not received my servos...tracking says the package left Zurich yesterday so hopefully it wont be to much longer....next i plan on ordering the parts to do the fbl conversion..
but i will order them from a usa supplier..

[jtpile]

Originally Posted by hcazar73

I did it !!!! just finish test flying my new flybarless Ufly ...it rocks!!!...after many failed attempts ....including installing the rx2437v backwards!!!...it handles great!!!! ...did the henge servos..(very nice)...my only piece of advice is to get a 3/64 drill bit to widen the hole on the main shaft...than way you can use the pin that the 370 head came with .....thank you all for all your advice !!!!

Hi,

Eflite has retaining pins which work great for the pin in the upper portion of the ufly's rotor head, much easier then drilling, Part #EFLH1135. Use the Eflite pin and blue loctite, leave it alone to dry completely overnight, voila perfect fit without the pin flying out (been there done that). The pin sticks out a bit on both ends but it makes it so MUCH EASIER to remove after a nasty crash. -cheers

[jtpile]

Originally Posted by magicmarty

wow it takes a long time getting parts from over seas...be two weeks tomorrow and still have not received my servos...tracking says the package left Zurich yesterday so hopefully it wont be to much longer....next i plan on ordering the parts to do the fbl conversion..
but i will order them from a usa supplier..

Hi MM,

I ordered 5 henges not to long ago for a future Walkera 4F200 I want to get, those servos will be much better than the stock ones due to metal vs plastic gears. I figured in a month I'd be ready to buy it.
The best place I found for the 370D01 parts is HeliDirect.com, unfortunately Rick from clubheli.com does not carry the 370D01 or spare parts for it of course.
The flybarless conversion really makes the uflys a screamer for a fixed pitch. Looking forward to the 4F200 once I mastered the two helis I have already and have the funds for it. -cheers

[magicmarty]

Finally got my 922 servos in today and i must say they are very sweet...i installed them and readjusted swash leveling ect...and give it a test hover and it hovers more stable then before and is a lot more responsive...i love it...might be just me but it seems the henge servos has a little farther travel then the stock walkera do...anyhow if so its that much better i think...

next on my list is the FBL conversion....

thanks all n happy flying...

[wuselfuzz]

Crosspost from rcgroups, because the idea to do this mod originated from here:

Successful FBL mod!

Parts I used:

- V370D01 rotor head with main rotor shaft
- V370D01 linkage set
- About 4 cheap drills and a couple of 1mm cobalt alloy steel drills

Besides the obvious replacements - moving the swash plate and blade holders to the new rotor head - you'll notice that some of the ball link balls won't fit right away, but it's possible to move them around so you won't need any extras!

The ball link screws (what's their correct name, I'm a non-native speaker?) from the blade holders go to your bag of extra parts. Remove those from the swash plate, they'll be too long. Two of them go into to rotor blade holders, the winding is the same size, just the visible part of them is "fatter" on the original ones. Two of them go to your bag of extra parts.

Then, remove the ball-screws from the ring of the old flybar holder. Those go into the swash plate, they're the same size, but shorter, making the ball links actually run through the anti-rotation guides later.

Now for the hard part: The V370D01 rotor shaft has another mechanism to attach to the main gear, there's a flat spot instead of a hole for a bolt. Trying to separate the shaft from the rotor head was in vain (did they drive a small screw through there and cut off the screwhead?), so I tried to drill a 1.3mm hole through the flat spot of the new main shaft for a bolt.

My small proxxon drill (similar to a dremel) works from 5000 to 20000 rpm and I have (had) no idea about drilling through steel. I ruined about 4 different drills from my micro drill set I got for drilling PCBs and another better quality 1mm drill from a set of two, then started googling.

To make a long story short: When the drill gets too hot, it gets dull (that happened with one of the better 1mm drill) or the drill tip just glows/burns/melts.

6000 rpm is appropriate for drilling a 1mm hole (higher RPM = faster drilling but more heat). You should also put a drop of water in the drilling hole for more cooling. Use a high quality steel drill, and you have an actual chance of success. =)

After I was done with the 1mm hole, I widened it to 1.4mm using one of the cheap drills from the set I have.

A quick indoor hover test worked out well.

Here's my uflybarless (external links here, don't want to break tables):

http://wuselfuzz.de/images/uflybarless.jpg
http://wuselfuzz.de/images/uflybarless2.jpg

[magicmarty]

there is no way to use the ufly main shaft? wouldn't that be easier then having to drill the v370 shaft or is the ufly shaft not the correct length?

just wondering cause i plan on doing the conversion soon..