Malorie's Gasser Throttle setup

[Pinecone]

Originally Posted by F6Hawk

Just out of curiosity, what'd you have to pay for it? Got mine for about $90...

Where did you get it for $90?

[F6Hawk]

LHS here in Korea. They are made here, ya know.

[Pinecone]

Hmm, how much to ship one here?

[F6Hawk]

$4.95 to 21250 via USPS priority. U want? With the current exchange rate, it will be around $95, up a tad from when I bought one. Not a huge savings from RCAccessory, but if you want...

A BC8DX is around $337, down from $360 at RCA.

[Pinecone]

Thanks, but a couple of others htings have popped up. I may be back to you later though.

[Cletus]

Just got my Bantam CheckMaster II ....Nice unit indeed

[tott]

OK....

Is this still the standard to setup a bergen gasser ?

I found that I had to set my endpoints to around 73 in both the high and low end on the throttle servo. This is just for the initial setup and flight as I am going to use a GV-1.

However, the GV-1 states that it works best with endpoints over 100% .. ??? Is that correct or am I missing something ? IF this is correct how can I keep this setup and get my endpoints to over 100% on both ends.

I have positioned the linkage on the carb, as when the carb is fully closed it is 90 degrees (pointing straight out from the carb), and when fully open it is pointing down the linkage rod.

I have the throttle servo arm pointing about 22 degrees (around the 3:30 position) when the carb in completely closed, and it is just shy of around 90 degrees when it is full open (around the 6:00 position).

This linkage setup was done with the throttle trim all the way down.

My radio is setup like this:
normal: Pitch L 21 1-39 2-53 3-62 4-75 5-92 H95
Snt 1 P L 28 2-INH 3-54 4-62 5-INH H96
Stn 2 INH or mirror Stnt 1
Hold L 0 3-50 H-100 1,2,4,5 INH

normal: Thr L 0 1-INH 2-35 3-37 4-44 5-57 H70
Stn 1 Thr L 31 1-33 2-35 3-37 4-43.5 5-56.5 H98
Stn 2 INH or mirror Stnt 1

**I know, I know....this is a very mild setup** but will this work with my current throttle setup as a starting point?

I have NO BINDING and all the linkages are squared 100%.

This helicopter has been run with a completely different setup for engine break-in (around a gallon or so).

I will be using the GV-1 and the DJI autopilot once I get this all squared away as well. The idea being a smooth helicopter for the DJI and NOT a 3D hotdog.....LOL

Any feedback or information is greatly appreciated.
Thank you for your time and information,
JASON

[Cletus]

Hi:
Not familiar with GV-1 but the Malorie setup for the throttle is the preferred method since gasser carbs function in a non-linear fashion. I would not worry too much about the actual endpoints, just ensure there's no binding. REMOVE the throttle-stop screw (if one is there) and toss it. KEEP the throttle return spring function as this keeps the butterfly from rattling. My engine starts and idles at low-stick, center-trim and once I pull the trim all the way down, I've got engine cut. My normal mode headspeed is 1450 and idle-up is 1550 and 1650. Throttle-hold puts me at a fast-idle (just a tad faster than low-stick mid-trim) ...just the way I fancy it.
Starting, she likes two easy pulls with choke on, then one authoritative pull with choke off and she lights right up. Both needles are 1 3/8 turns out.
As far as radio numbers, each setup is different.
Normal pitch should provide -4* to +10* with zero pitch at center stick and -10* to +10* in idle-up, again with zero at center. I've setup 7* of cyclic. I therefore am at hover just before 3/4 stick.
You will probably want to dial-in some expo for the cyclic and tail to make the control comfortable for your flying style/application.
I've programmed three switch settings in my TX for expo, so I can select Linear, 15% and 30% for cyclic and Linear and 10% for the tail.
I've also programmed-in 10% throttle-cyclic and 5% throttle-rudder mixing.
I'm a firm believer in "neutralizing the tail". Adjust your linkages so that the tail blades track properly, then adjust tail-pitch linkage so the tail is stable (not wanting to swing left or right) with the gyro set to rate mode. Once that's done switch to HH mode on the gyro (this way the tail servo is working a lot less to hold the tail.
Again, it's what works for you and your flying style/application.
Hope this helps.

[cbergen]

The GV-1 DOES work best when the endpoints are at or above 100%. In order to obtain this you need to move the ball on your servo wheel IN a hole or 2.

As for your numbers, you need to fly the heli and tach the headspeed, leaving the governor off initially, set your curves to the RPM's you want, THEN turn on the GV-1, verifying headspeeds are what they are suposed to be.

[tott]

Thanks for the information.

Hey Chris, I have the ball-link all the way in on the throttle servo arm. This is about 12.75mm from the center of the servo output shaft to the center of the ball-link. I was able to get around 76 at both ends before the control rod would not line up again. The "happy" number was 73 for me at this setup.

Just to confirm, This number was setup on both ends with throttle all the way down and the throttle trim all the way down.

I also had to use a smaller throttle linkage to obtain the 146mm from center of ball to center of ball on the throttle to get this to work.

I tried to flip the throttle servo around with the output shaft closer to the front of the heli (Bergen Intrepid Eb) and using a longer linkage. However the longest linkage I have was the one for the throttle in the original setup. This does not allow me to adjust it out far enough without having the ball-link ends to be only a few turns on the linkage rod.

I tried for a few hours to get a number higher than 70's on both ends but could not get it. I think I am missing something, but not sure what. So back to the grind again today.

I have this setup without the GV-1 currently as well for tuning purposes.

Thank you again CHRIS, CLETUS and HELIFREAK.....

[cbergen]

Quick question, this bird is for AP work right? Then truthfully the Malorie setup is unnecessary.

This setup is intended to prevent overspeeding when doing things like an inverted pushout to center stick.

Go back and center the throttle arm and servo arm, setting your ATV's at 100%, set your throttle curve at 0,50,100, then test fly to set proper headspeed using a tach.