Magnum Tazer 800 Build

[j_kookboy]

Chris,

What will be the AUW with & w/o lipo's ?

Thanks
Jesse

[cbergen]

My Tazer weighs in at 10.5 with the 5350 5s batteries.

The Tazer 800 will be slightly more w/ the long boom/blades and 6s...

[cbergen]

Front transmission and lower mainshaft bearing block installed.

Here's what it's supposed to look like to this point with upper and lower bearing blocks installed and elevator yoke in the middle.

[cbergen]

The Tail servo is mounted just under the boom, but is still attached to the frames.

The boom clamps actually clamp the boom without requiring the addition of tape or sandpaper for a solid, no slip affair.

[cbergen]

A gyro mount is included in the kit, no need to guess where to put your favorite gyro.

This angle mounted plate is also an ideal place to mount the second 2.4 ghz receiver.

[cbergen]

The Tazer kit comes with the constant driven tail system, the standard main gear (non driven) can be installed as well for those without a need to do aerobatic autorotations....

The crown gear hub utilizes pinch bolts to keep the gear running true to the mainshaft ,another Malorie design.

The Autohub utilizes 2 one way bearings in a substantial aluminum housing. No cracking, no slipping, no locking up, no mods necessary. We do recommend using a light oil for lubrication, NOT grease.

[cbergen]

The mainshaft is 10mm, hollow and fully hardened.

It's held in place with the original split collar, oft imitated, but never duplicated!! No need to double them up, these won't crack around the bolt hole.

We do, however, recommend the use of a hardened allen driver, NOT an allen wrench, as you are less likely to strip the head out. No need to overtorque these, and we do NOT recomend loctite on the screw.

[cbergen]

Installing the main gear is next, lowering the mainshaft through the autohub, locating the setscrew into the divot on the mainshaft, then installing the lower mainshaft collar.

The screw in the lower collar is an sae bolt, 4-40 to be exact, so don't use your metric driver on it.... Use a 3/64" allen wrench. Two options here to set any up and down float of the main gear. You do want "some" float of the main gear and autohub vs it being bound up between the lower collar and the crown gear hub.

If you have excessive up and down float, install the lower collar with the step on the top. If the system binds up, flip the collar over (step down) for clearance.

[cbergen]

With the main gear in place, tighten down the split collars, bottom one first while pushing UP on the main gear, then the upper collar.

Doubling up our Split collars is NOT necessary, we reduce the size of the head of the bolt to leave more meat on the collar so these won't crack....

Now set the mesh of the tail drive pinion/bevel gear by pushing down on the front of the transmission cage (remember the slots..). Due to the pressure of the side frames, this may require some force or a little tap to get the front end down. What you're looking for are the "ears" of the transmision to be at least flush with the mainshaft bearing block.

Now looking up the back end of the heli, ensure that the Delrin coupler is centered in the boom clamps.

[cbergen]

With the main gear in place, we can now set the pinion to main gear mesh and the belt tension.

[cbergen]

Swashplate and washout unit are next, both are all metal, no plastic except for the
radius link (porkchop).

After installing short balls in the outer ring and medium balls in the inner ring, slide it onto the mainshaft, attaching the ball links from the elevator yoke.

[cbergen]

This brings us to the washout unit and washout arms. You will find 2 packages of radius links (Porkchops) in your kit.

I'll show the suggested assy first, then the alternative with the extra links.

The layout of the parts is as shown, the arms are aluminum, the base is aluminum, there are 2 bearings in each arm, note the brass washer between the bearing and the base.

Assemble the first arm with the radius link and crosspin, securing the crosspin with a setscrew.

[cbergen]

The washout arms are installed with a shanked bolt, the brass washer, and a setscrew which is installed from the OPPOSITE side, acting as a jamnnut (screw?).

Tighten the bolt enough to remove slop from the bearings, but not so tight as to make them notchy. Secure by tightening the setscrew against the bolt.

[cbergen]

The washout unit is hardcoated on the inside, keeps it from wearing out. Slide it onto the mainshaft and snap the radius links onto 2 opposite balls on the inner ring of the swashplate.

Now the explanation of the alternate links.

Line up the balls that you snapped the porkchops onto with the outer balls of the swashplate, preferably the ones to the sides.

Look at the flybar, noting the angle, that it is NOT pointing straight out away from the heli.

This is the "retarded" setting, and in general, gives you a more stable hover and less cyclic action.

[cbergen]

If you opt to use the other links, then your assy will look like this. Note the washout arms are flipped over and the bolt is installed in the other hole.

Now if you line up the swashplate balls and look at the flybar, the angle is now "advanced".

This gives a less stable hover, but more cyclic action.

The porkchops are handed, meaning they only snap onto the ball in one direction, seen in the photo.

All of this is also called swashplate timing, and in the higher end radios can be adjusted electronicallyin a specific mode or by mixing in some aileron with elevator, and elevator with aileron.

If you prefer to have your swashplate timing set to 0 and have pure aileron and elevator movement, then use the first, suggested setup and mix it out in your radio.

[cbergen]

Assy of the control system is next, and it isn't as complicated as it looks...

All pieces are aluminum, not stamped out, but machined.

[cbergen]

All bellcranks rotate on bearings, and you can set the tension on them to eliminate any slop in your controls.

The aileron bellcranks are done by tightening the through bolt enough to remove any play, but still allow free spinning, then tightening the jamnut to the popsicle stick.

[cbergen]

The collective bellcranks rotate with the lower collective axle.

[cbergen]

Collective arms (Popsickle sticks) go on next, these strictly control collective movement, nothing else.

Then the elevator "X" arm is installed at the pivot point for the Popsickle sticks. Again setting the tension on the bearings for slop free, free spinning movement.

[cbergen]

Aileron servo mounting is next, This sits in between the Popsickle sticks and moves up and down WITH the popsickle sticks, but there is NO aileron INPUT with collective movement.

Instead of loctite, use a drop of CA on the screws securing the mount to the popsickle sticks. The mount is made from G10, which is porous. Loctite requires the ABSENCE of air to cure, so will not setup properly in G10.