MSH Protos Build Videos!

[Finless]

Well Carrado was suppose to send me the CF frames and new canopy. I guess he got busy or something but I was going to do a mini build video / review of them just so people could see what they look like and any pointers on putting them on if needed.

Bob

[dswitkin]

Originally Posted by Finless

Well Carrado was suppose to send me the CF frames and new canopy. I guess he got busy or something but I was going to do a mini build video / review of them just so people could see what they look like and any pointers on putting them on if needed.

Bob

If you do receive the carbon frames please let us know.

Daniel

[minority]

I got my Protos500, and ref. to your video while building the heli, it's very useful! Especially about some washer's thickness

[straesso]

Thank you for the great work, Bob! I'm a beginner and without your videos, it would not be possible for me getting a good result!

[davidgts]

Hi,

Did the carbon frames ever arrive? After so many months how is the helicopter holding up?

[Finless]

No I never got the frames but thats alright. Heli has held up fine until a crash in November. Just havent ordered up the parts yet.

Bob

[davidgts]

Hi Bob,

The plastic frames might be more forgiving, like flixing, in a hard landing. I was planning on taking a larger electric (500) with me on deployment and was wondering how durable it was.
The sand and grit are very harsh of all bearings and gears. My little Trex 250 needed a complete rebuild after a few months. It will be the same no matter what I fly over there, but maybe with a lower head speed, like on a larger heli, things might not wear as fast.

Thanks again for these build videos!

[tcprogrammer]

I'm finishing my build now. and I'm noticing a lot more link adjustment is required to get zero pitch than I expected. I've already put two turns on the links between the swash and servos, and two more turns on each of the links between the swash and the blade grip mixing arms, and I still have negative pitch at center stick.

I am trying to avoid turning out the short links between the flybar cage and the mixing arms as recommended in Bob's video. Did anyone else encounter this in their build? I'm using JR3517 servos on the cyclic, and dubro arms with the ball at the exact distance recommended in the manual.

[straesso]

Originally Posted by tcprogrammer

I'm finishing my build now. and I'm noticing a lot more link adjustment is required to get zero pitch than I expected. I've already put two turns on the links between the swash and servos, and two more turns on each of the links between the swash and the blade grip mixing arms, and I still have negative pitch at center stick.

I just finished my protos 500 with carbon frames - and have the same problem. I use savox SH-1250 ditigal servos and mounted the servo arms with the ball at the exact distance recommended in the manual. I took it as it is and adjusted the sticks until i got zero pitch.

Regards

Olaf

[povern]

Originally Posted by straesso

I just finished my protos 500 with carbon frames - and have the same problem. I use savox SH-1250 ditigal servos and mounted the servo arms with the ball at the exact distance recommended in the manual. I took it as it is and adjusted the sticks until i got zero pitch.

Regards

Olaf

The measurement from swash to servos is only good for the servos listed in the manual.

If you use anything else, you are on your own. The distance between the servo arm and swash will be different for each model of servo.

[Desmohead]

Swash to collar should be the same for all servos though right? What are you running for that?


-Eric

[gmhelo]

Originally Posted by povern

The measurement from swash to servos is only good for the servos listed in the manual.

If you use anything else, you are on your own. The distance between the servo arm and swash will be different for each model of servo.

Originally Posted by Desmohead

Swash to collar should be the same for all servos though right? What are you running for that?


-Eric

Easy method is

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k_2RJ9YS7dA[/ame]

I know the guy who makes these, I have one and it is very good.

Gary

[400driver]

Thanks to Bob,
Building the kit with the videos and instructions side by side is a real pleasure. watch the video before starting and then build along with it. This is the first finless video that I have used..amazing.

Thanks also to GMhelo for the swash levelling video, very informative.

[Dark Poacher]

Maybe it's late, but I am having problems with the tail boom. I have the tail case on with the hole on one side, the front of the boom is slotted. I can't tighten the belt to the main gear without pulling the housing whhich holds the tail into the back casing. If i pull the boom, it is no longer being held by the slots and will turn...anyone else havinng the same problem or can help? I followed Finless Build several times....

[trickybit]

Originally Posted by Dark Poacher

Maybe it's late, but I am having problems with the tail boom. I have the tail case on with the hole on one side, the front of the boom is slotted. I can't tighten the belt to the main gear without pulling the housing whhich holds the tail into the back casing. If i pull the boom, it is no longer being held by the slots and will turn...anyone else havinng the same problem or can help? I followed Finless Build several times....

Not sure what you mean by "into the back casing," but if you're finding yourself needing to pull the belt "too far" to get it tight, then you need to move the motor forward, "advance" the belt a few teeth along the main gear towards the motor, and then you'll have less slack on the tail side of the main gear. The belt does go around the motor pinion, right?

If that doesn't do it, make sure you don't have a stretch kit belt.

Both the tail rotor casing and the tail boom block should be locked into place on the boom; no adjustment, motion, slack, wiggle. Nothing. The only motion should be the boom block along its slotted holes.

Also make sure the idler pulley in the tail is in place (unlike a T-Rex 450, you want to keep that baby on there). It takes up a little slack.

Make sure your belt is running through all the pulleys it's supposed to be and the belt hasn't slipped off the main gear.

Good luck

[Dark Poacher]

was you washout 90 at center stick after build? I am setting my Proptos up a second time as I cut the wrong arms off the horns, but I would like to know if your center stick also had washout at 90? I followed the build videos, but I ma using align 520 servos fro cyclic

[pmikeyg]

The tail on mine will not lock in. If I bring the gain down, it wags slowly. If I bring it up, it seems to lock in until I put the power to it. Then it is pretty violent! Not sure what to do...head speed is up around 2700. Using a Spartan 760 on it.

[EricW]

Cut away the tailrod guide eye (don't need it and possibly makes contact).
Review and re-assemble the tailcase and the complete tailpitch assembly.
build it up part by part and check play and smoothness on every stage all the way to the tailblades.
If it turns out to not be a mechanical problem, check your tailservo (strong/fast enough?)

[gorn]

you have used the supplied ball link reamer on the tail slider links right?

If you havent, theres your problem.

What tail servo?

[pmikeyg]

I used the reamer on the tail. I am using a 9257 servo on the tail! Thanks for the input guys.