E700 v1 on the way - what do I need to know?

[darkfa8]

I have a ~2 year old e700 on the way and it sounds like even before the V2 was released there were some improvements. Can anyone advise on what to look out for that is specific to this vintage of model?

I'm aware of Nick's videos and will be checking in with those after I receive the model.

My setup will be:
AR7200BX w/DSMX sat
MKS BLS-970 cyclic
MKS BLS-980 or 990 tail servo
KDE 600XF-1100-G3
12t pinion - if I can find one :/
Castle Talon 120 HV
Revo 6s packs
Unsure on blades
DryFluids lube
CanoMod or Fusuno custom canopy

Am looking to run 1600-1750-1900, sport and mild 3D.

[trickybit]

A few thoughts...
- my early V1 canopies were thin at the mount points. You may want to proactively reinforce. (Ah, I see you will go custom)
- it's nice to set it up so you can replace the packs without removing the canopy.
- it loves Cyclone blades
- If your motor/ESC wires pass through a frame hole, add lining or insulation.
- red loctite the boom struts at the frame.
- pay attention to your 4 "jesus bolts." Clean and use loctite, some folks are using red and keep an eye on them.
- keep a close eye on the servo-control train parts. They're not quite symmetric. On the servo horns, you want the tightening bolts facing up.
- It's not a 120-degree head, so your FBL will probably need special setup
- new trick: only use one grub screw per skid pipe. Front left and rear right for example. That way the gear assembly will be able to flex on hard landing

[ChrisH]

A few more ... This heli loves 115's, and if you are familiar with Mikado herringbone pinions don't be alarmed when you find out the TT's is "split" in the middle. Double check collective direction during setup (it goes down for positive unlike many other 700 heads). Fiberglass tape/clear duct tape also allows for more room beside the packs if you are going to make quick [rear] loading a priority. Oh, tail blade grips have in-slop, totally normal.

Some V1 models had the V2 head, just check out the upper links and mixing arms to see if you have any delta. Close to 0 delta = V2 head.

[darkfa8]

Great info!

I recall reading Dr. Ben saying that the swash is 135*, and I can set the swash to be 140* in my FBL without any detrimental effects.

I'm familiar with the herringbone gearing. I sold my Logo to buy the TT

[prototype3a]

Do not mix and match new with old.

[trickybit]

Originally Posted by prototype3a

Do not mix and match new with old.

Actually, we've seen kits that have the new, longer posts but not the other two components.

That yields a set up with zero delta, but links that are not parallel with the shaft.

After cogitation, a few of us agree that this angle makes zero difference to the control geometry. So the mix-and-match as they've done in some kits is not a problem.

[prototype3a]

Nick Maxwell said the posts would only make a difference if you were running soft damping and lower headspeeds because if the spindle doesn't feather much in flight, then the delta doesn't matter. But the other bits would change up all the ratios.

[trickybit]

Originally Posted by prototype3a

Nick Maxwell said the posts would only make a difference if you were running soft damping and lower headspeeds because if the spindle doesn't feather much in flight, then the delta doesn't matter. But the other bits would change up all the ratios.

That's consistent with prior comments.
- lengthening the posts removes the delta. Mine aren't longer and I don't worry about it.
- the other two mods do change the geometry.

I believe:
- lengthening the posts removes the delta, does not change the geometry, and has no intrinsic flaws in spite of slight angle of the vertical link.

The biggest problem about all this, at the moment, is finding the replacement parts you think you need for whatever versions of the stuff you got. Still hoping this resolves itself well.

Recent insider data is encouraging that HRP intends to support the Raptor line well.

Oh, yeah, add to the "of interest to new owners" list: Parts supply not good, caught between distributors.

And: the crash kit is a great deal, if you can find one, stock up in advance.

[rcnorth]

It's such a great machine that I now have 2

Sounds like parts will not be a problem once the distribution transition gets on track.

Currently there are some parts left @ rotorquest.com, but I don't think they will be re-stocking.

www.thehelifarm.com will be stocking E700 parts & has a couple V2 kits.

Enjoy your Raptor

[darkfa8]

i'll see what the model comes with and I might not bother with upgrading to the V2 parts until when or if I crash. Or, if I find some sale on TT stuff.

So far as I've read, for the head speeds my setup is best at running it won't really be detrimental by having V1 parts.

[trickybit]

Originally Posted by darkfa8

i'll see what the model comes with and I might not bother with upgrading to the V2 parts until when or if I crash. Or, if I find some sale on TT stuff.

So far as I've read, for the head speeds my setup is best at running it won't really be detrimental by having V1 parts.

Yours will fly great. But with slower speeds, do follow ChrisH advice and get 115mm tail blades, for sure.

[darkfa8]

What are considered slower speeds?

What are the damper options for the head speed ranges?

[Full Montee]

Surprised no one mentioned the weak 26T tail drive gear (PV1653) that shipped in the v1 and many v1.5 kits. When TT updated the part the part number wasn't changed. Big dealers supposedly cleared out of the weak gear this past summer. The best way I've found to tell them apart is to look at the flat side of the gear, the bottom, and compare the 6 ribs that go from the center to the outer edge. The updated version is thicker. Mine measure about 0.065 and the old one measures about 0.055.
In the picture the weak gear is on the left and strong gear on the right.

[ttrip06]

Well my take on what you may need is nothing, unless you see wear/slop. We are still flying our original v1 with stock parts. Mine is setup for the lower head speeds to medium 3d (1400-1900). My sons is setup for all out assault flying and we have had zero issues with the stock kit.

Now that being said, I would put the stronger tail gears in with the speed up 4.71. It will help to make sure that the breaking issues some were having will not be an issue. Plus it will allow you to use 105 tail blades for all but the most extreme flying. The other issue that may or may not be an issue was some of the original kits came with a defective bushing that the one way rides on in the main gear. Not sure there is any real way to tell.

Using 140 option for the swash will not be an issue.

Tim

[darkfa8]

I received the model and it appears to be a complete V1. I'm going to change out the tail gearing to the speed-up gears and go stock with everything else until when I crash it.

[darkfa8]

in going through the forward tail gear setup, the torque tube bevel gear slides into the radial bearings with very little resistance. I noticed in Nick's video, his bevel gear snaps into place.

Should I replace the gear, or just CA it into the bearings?

[Full Montee]

I typically use green Loctite in that location.
I think mine slides into place and the last millimeter will pop.