Are there any "must do" things you should do with the 450x out of the box?

[renefigueroa]

Here is another link to a second set of BeastX set up videos

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=305195

[Allen_H]

[Pappy1]

It would be good if the original poster, could keep all the necessary things to do on the first page,otherwise this thread is going to be a long read for someone to find the info they need.

[spiff72]

Just an update for those who are subscribed to the thread - I updated the first post to try to include some of the highlights I have seen in the thread so far. If you have anything else you think should be added to that first post, please reply and let me know! I don't even have my 450X yet, but I am trying to maintain this thread! (Mine doesn't arrive until Wednesday this week!)

[spiff72]

Added links to the first post to show the switch on the ESC for 5v/6v operation.

[Barnavis]

Some more videos: First is a Flybarless pitch gauge video (note: you don't need the T-tool if you use a digital pitch gauge) and second is Align Trex 450 Pro 3gx FBL servo horn 90-degree trick.

G-Tech Flybarless Setup Tools (1 min 31 sec)

Align Trex 450 Pro 3gx FBL Flybarless servo horn 90 degree trick (2 min 15 sec)

[night wolf d]

For anyone new to both B450x & Ar7200bx I suggest downloading the Ar7200bx user manual print if up as a booklet for referance when working on the B450x !
Very useful side by the B450x manual !

[dragnse7en]

This is a great resource - thanks everyone for sharing all this good info. 'Subbed

[spiff72]

I noticed that one of my YouTube links in my first post is wrong. I think it was the one for the playlist of HH repair bids. Unfortunately, the edit button is gone now so I can't edit the Op anymore. The tips will have to be scattered through this thread. Maybe I will contact a mod and see if they can restore the edit function for me.

The HH bids are linked a few posts further down on the first page though!

Sent from my Galaxy Note 10.1 - pardon my typos!

[spiff72]

I used this very helpful walk through on dynamic blade balancing and got mine dead on by doing it. Will report back after next flight to see if it cured my spool up and spool down wobbles.

http://www.rchelisite.com/rc_helicop..._balancing.php

I think I prefer these types of guides over videos sometimes!

Sent from my Galaxy Note 10.1 - pardon my typos!

[Barnavis]

If your main gear wobbles after installation, that's a common problem. Here are related threads and what so far seems to work for me:

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=353111

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=524466

I think I have this sorted out, at least me the wobble SEEMS to be gone. It's the drilling the plastic part from the other thread. Take a 1/16 drill bit and from the end the 4 screws go into, drill all the way through for a few seconds and pull it straight out. Don't try to grind out the edges here. The problem is the "extra plastic" stops the screws from going all the way through and holding the metal One Way Band from being held firmly against the main gear. Now take the drill and from the other end of the holes, VERY SLIGHTLY ground out a TINY bit of plastic from the end. Then screw in the 4 screws so they go about to the far end of the hole and the metal is firmly against the main gear. It's rather messed up the factory can't drill these holes adequately but so far this seems to work for me. Time will tell. I'll post this in the other thread and in our stickied newbie thread too.

[dragnse7en]

Originally Posted by Barnavis

If your main gear wobbles after installation, that's a common problem. Here are related threads and what so far seems to work for me:

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=353111

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=524466

I think I have this sorted out, at least me the wobble SEEMS to be gone. It's the drilling the plastic part from the other thread. Take a 1/16 drill bit and from the end the 4 screws go into, drill all the way through for a few seconds and pull it straight out. Don't try to grind out the edges here. The problem is the "extra plastic" stops the screws from going all the way through and holding the metal One Way Band from being held firmly against the main gear. Now take the drill and from the other end of the holes, VERY SLIGHTLY ground out a TINY bit of plastic from the end. Then screw in the 4 screws so they go about to the far end of the hole and the metal is firmly against the main gear. It's rather messed up the factory can't drill these holes adequately but so far this seems to work for me. Time will tell. I'll post this in the other thread and in our stickied newbie thread too.

That's a good tip. I've replaced my main gear twice so far, but I seem to have been lucky. The four screws are somewhat tough to tighten up, but I've had no wobbles on either one of them. Thanks again for the info!

[mekky67]

I've been looking to do this mod but have a question.

There are two bearings in the motor - a rear bearing and the front bearing shown in the video.

When I pulled the centre of the motor out of the casing the rear bearing was dragged halfway up the shaft. Has anyone threadlocked both bearings? Is it worth doing this or is it typically only the front bearing/shaft that fails?

Thanks.

[Tim Wolff]

Originally Posted by mekky67

I've been looking to do this mod but have a question.

There are two bearings in the motor - a rear bearing and the front bearing shown in the video.

When I pulled the centre of the motor out of the casing the rear bearing was dragged halfway up the shaft. Has anyone threadlocked both bearings? Is it worth doing this or is it typically only the front bearing/shaft that fails?

Thanks.

I used green loctite 609 on both the bearings after a single test flight. It has been OK since then. If your rear bearing came out of the stator w/o help, you should loctite the bearing into the the stator too. Green loctite 680 is stronger and better suited than 609 for this application. I'll be using 680 if my motor needs to be loctited again.

[mekky67]

OK thanks for the advice.

[kb1846]

Have a new 450X, half a dozen or so flights just hovering so far, on the last landing one rotor clipped the ground and it was enough to strip gears on two of the cyclic servos.

For the moment I'm getting replacement gears - cheapest option.

But the tip at the start of the thread re switching to 6V and soldering in a diode to keep the tail servo to 5V is causing some confusion. Does someone have a guide on where and how to solder the diode? And do you need to take things apart to get at the wiring to do this?

Contemplating, when I can afford it, upgrading to Savox servos. Question then is: Can you just switch the S-BEC to 6V for all four servos in this case? Or do you need an external BEC? If so, what kind? And where/how do you connect it?

Also have a 300X with the same DS76 and 76T servos as the 450X ... is it desirable to replace them with metal gear servos? And is the stock 25A ESC with S-BEC on the 300X capable of handling these upgraded servos?

Like to get my head around this before I take a very big leap here!

[Inverted2112]

After much reading, debating, and balancing price vs performance, I just put in 4 KST DS215M servos. $29 bucks a pop and they seem excellent quality for that price. First flights with them this evening. Those particular servos will all run with the stock ESC switched to 6v.

Regarding the diode, I used one of the Align step downs that plugs in right in line with the rudder servo and ran the stock ESC at 6v with no issues on the stock servos. Here's a link:

http://www.helidirect.com/align-51v-...tor-p-7099.hdx

I'm going to run a dedicated BEC very soon when a new motor and ESC goes in, but that's probably overkill for this set-up.

Originally Posted by kb1846

Have a new 450X, half a dozen or so flights just hovering so far, on the last landing one rotor clipped the ground and it was enough to strip gears on two of the cyclic servos.

For the moment I'm getting replacement gears - cheapest option.

But the tip at the start of the thread re switching to 6V and soldering in a diode to keep the tail servo to 5V is causing some confusion. Does someone have a guide on where and how to solder the diode? And do you need to take things apart to get at the wiring to do this?

Contemplating, when I can afford it, upgrading to Savox servos. Question then is: Can you just switch the S-BEC to 6V for all four servos in this case? Or do you need an external BEC? If so, what kind? And where/how do you connect it?

Also have a 300X with the same DS76 and 76T servos as the 450X ... is it desirable to replace them with metal gear servos? And is the stock 25A ESC with S-BEC on the 300X capable of handling these upgraded servos?

Like to get my head around this before I take a very big leap here!

[kb1846]

Thanks for that info. We have an Align dealer in Australia where I can get the voltage regulator for use while I retain the stock servos. But I don't have anywhere I can get KST servos ... Savox seems highly regarded and I imagine would work with them all at 6V.

Alternatively, would Align servos be ok? They have a digital cyclic servo, DS415M, and rudder servo, DS425M, that are used for their 250 to 450 size helis - roughly the same size as the stock 450X servos, and I could get them from the Aust. Align dealer at $25, quite a bit cheaper than Savox.

The Align servos have higher torque and are faster than the stock ones, but are quite a bit heavier - 13.9gm against 7.6gm.

[TommyBear]

Originally Posted by kb1846

Thanks for that info. We have an Align dealer in Australia where I can get the voltage regulator for use while I retain the stock servos. But I don't have anywhere I can get KST servos ... Savox seems highly regarded and I imagine would work with them all at 6V.

Alternatively, would Align servos be ok? They have a digital cyclic servo, DS415M, and rudder servo, DS425M, that are used for their 250 to 450 size helis - roughly the same size as the stock 450X servos, and I could get them from the Aust. Align dealer at $25, quite a bit cheaper than Savox.

The Align servos have higher torque and are faster than the stock ones, but are quite a bit heavier - 13.9gm against 7.6gm.

The Aligns 415s will be fine. I am using them on one of my 450X. I highly recommend Align DS520 for your tail though.
I have a spare brand new voltage regulator if you need one and I am in Melb.

[Crakin]

Originally Posted by kb1846

Thanks for that info. We have an Align dealer in Australia where I can get the voltage regulator for use while I retain the stock servos. But I don't have anywhere I can get KST servos ... Savox seems highly regarded and I imagine would work with them all at 6V.

Alternatively, would Align servos be ok? They have a digital cyclic servo, DS415M, and rudder servo, DS425M, that are used for their 250 to 450 size helis - roughly the same size as the stock 450X servos, and I could get them from the Aust. Align dealer at $25, quite a bit cheaper than Savox.

The Align servos have higher torque and are faster than the stock ones, but are quite a bit heavier - 13.9gm against 7.6gm.

I installed 425 on the tail...running 5.5v. Very nice so far.