HDX300 Build Videos wll be here

[nexgen]

I worked out the vibes. I found that there was a little (1mm or so) slop in the feathering shaft/blade grip setup allowing one of my blade grips to move outward slightly, this could cause one end of the disk to be slightly longer than the other one if that makes sense. Also I have the JGF 400 and 3s, and was running a 9t pinion. I switched to 8t and everything is smooth as butter. I think that the slight drop in headspeed is all that I needed.

This thing flies nicely now that it doesn't bounce all over the place. I am getting a renewed faith in this little guy. I will say that sometimes it's as if it is made of glass, ans I am afraid to touch it for fear that it will shatter, and revert to the crazy hot potato on the ground.

[nexgen]

I took the heli out on my lunch break (I'm at work). I noticed that with a full pack the heli had some slight vibes and a little of the tracking issue that I mentioned in a previous post. About 2 min into the flight, everything settled down, and she flew nice and smooth.

I will have to do a little more fiddling to make sure everything is dialed in all the way. My theory is that with a full pack (the most headspeed of the flight), I am on the edge, and the adjustments needed are more noticeable. I will post my findings with subsequent flights.

[LAdamo]

I have experienced similar things with mine although I have the microheli head. I spend a bunch of time balancing, checking, tracking and somehow it suddenly falls into place and flies great. Then seemingly out of the blue, tracking goes to hell, head shakes... without really knowing what changed. I am currently at the trying to get it figured out again. I am using the JGF400 motor with a 10T pinion so my headspeed is humming. I think that the ratio of head/blade weight to heli weight/mainshaft diameter is just too high. I can't help but wonder if it would do better to go back to a plastic head like a CP Pro. In fact, I have one and just might try it.

Bottom line is that I get to spend a lot more time flying my Trex450 and Diablo if I am not trying to make this one work.

[LAdamo]

Slapped that plastic CP Pro head on it tonight, checked the pitch at zero and spun it up. Flew a couple battery packs in the warehouse and it worked pretty well. I'm going to leave this head on and hope for a calm morning on Saturday.

[nexgen]

I personally would rather have a slightly higher headspeed, mine is most likely around 2500-2700 and I'd rather see it around 3k but the v3 shaft doesn't seem to cut the mustard. I have to trade off some speed for stability. I know I'l never get this thing to pop like a trex, or do hard 3d with the setup I have. Once I can get some erods made up, I can maybe ramp things up a bit.

[RyuuChi]

awesome vids, finless, i was just wondering about the V3 frame and trying to figure out my electronics placement, are there any videos on the build and set up of the new v3 hdx300?

[CF_Machete]

Any one have the linkage measurements for the v3 head? i got one in the mail and need to set it up.

[dizzymarkus]

Seems a bit since anyone has posted :0)---
quick question Bob if you would,

In your tail and gyro setup you use subtrim to chase the "creep" out does this have to be done with each new battery? If I leave the subtrim or trim when plugging in a new battery wont the gyro initialize off center?

Thanks greatly,
Markus

New V3 is a bit different build also -- No instructions and I have two frame supports I cant figure exactly where they go -- See pic please.

Thanks again.........
the supports are so far foward because they will hit the tail blades if not lol poor design there

[dizzymarkus]

boo anyone home around here? lol

Markus

[dizzymarkus]

Incase anyone is interested and still reading this thread -- heres what I got from HD on the links:

Message:

Hi Mark,

Ideally, it should be around this. This is from plastic ball link end to end.

Servo to Swash = 27mm

Swash to top mixer (long) = 43mm

Flybar bridge to mixer = 27mm

Mixer to grips = 21mm


The servo should face standing up...


I hope this help.





Best regards,
Jimmy
Technical Support
Jimmy@HeliDirect.com
HeliDirect.com

[Dwntyme]

I'm surprised this topic is still open... My HDX300 is in a Box with rest of the crapy heli's that I have
bought durring my learning process. one day I'll pull it back out I guess just tinker with it maybe put a 5mm mainshaft in it with TREX450 head because I've had the a Brand new V2 head system for the HDX that wadded up on the first spin up.(2mm mainshaft).. That's when I threw it in the box 2 yrs ago...

[nexgen]

i like my HDX 300, it is V3 with 3mm shaft. It is fun when it is dialed in.

[rcjames]

Originally Posted by dizzymarkus

Seems a bit since anyone has posted :0)---
quick question Bob if you would,

In your tail and gyro setup you use subtrim to chase the "creep" out does this have to be done with each new battery? If I leave the subtrim or trim when plugging in a new battery wont the gyro initialize off center?

Thanks greatly,
Markus

New V3 is a bit different build also -- No instructions and I have two frame supports I cant figure exactly where they go -- See pic please.

Thanks again.........
the supports are so far foward because they will hit the tail blades if not lol poor design there

You have a bad gyro, my gyro does the same damn thing i'll let it warm up and i'll give some subtrim then next flight it would be out of wack creeping and stuff. And when i first used it it work well just add subtrim and it just fly great without creep then it just start acting like you'rs

[Glitch01]

I agree. Once you work out all the bugs on this little heli, it is a mean machine. I should do a build video on this heli, but I need another heli to do the assembly video. I'm using the 3 mm shaft and the Blade CP head.

Build consist of:
HDX 300 Kit
CF Boom
CF Silver tail fins
CF 30 mm Rear rotor blades
CF 255 mm Main rotor blades
Castle HV30 30amp ESC
Castle 10 amp BEC
KDS 7-XII 8 Channel 2.4 Ghz radio/receiver
KDS 820 Head locking gyro
1500 mAh 40C Genesis 3S Lipo
38mm Outrunner KDS 3650KV Brushless motor
11T Aluminum Pinion

[Takis]

Hi Glitch01.
I have 2 such helis, but the main shaft is the problem. How did you sove that?
I am planing to change the shaft with 4 mm.
Your reply will halp me to accomplish this build
Best
Takis

[magicmarty]

Originally Posted by Takis

Hi Glitch01.
I have 2 such helis, but the main shaft is the problem. How did you sove that?
I am planing to change the shaft with 4 mm.
Your reply will halp me to accomplish this build
Best
Takis

You have to drill out the main bearing block to hold a larger bearing ...then you can get these and make your own shafts....

http://www.plastixs.com/ep07.html

[Takis]

OK, I did.
I will fix it and will see.
Best
Takis

[Glitch01]

Sorry, I didn't notice there was a reply

The 3mm main shaft does bend easily, but if you don't crash and such it will stay true. My problem right now is the one way bearings for the autorotation on the main gear. It keeps giving out. I've had this happen to me 3 times already: twice with the Microheli delrin gear for the blade cp and another with the cncheli blue gear.

I will be going with the Blade SR head for this heli. It uses the same head as the Blade CP with the exception of the main head rotor hub. The Blade SR uses a 4mm shaft. While looking for a 4mm autorotation gear, I notice they don't have one for the Blade SR or the Blade 300x. The last 3 crashes I had was related to the one way bearing, so now I'm wondering if I should just go with a fixed main gear.

[Glitch01]

Horray! I still have a blue autorotation gear. The bearings looks like it'l fit a 4mm shaft, but I guess I'll have to wait a bit to confirm. The heli is still flying on the 3mm shaft. I've replaced the 11t pinion with a 13t pinion, but anything above 60% throttle causes the tail to vibrated. Results being that the the 3mm shaft isn't as true as I like it, but the heli flies great for now at 55% throttle. I'm still waiting for my bearings to come in before I drill the bearing holder and fit the 4mm shaft.

[Glitch01]

Okay, got the bearing block and the 4mm shaft. The bearings are glued on, so I used my butane torch to heat up the bearings and out they went. The 4mm shaft fits snuggly into the bearing block, meaning you're going to have to drill out the entire block a bit for the shaft to sit spaciously.