DFC head upgrade to 500ESP

[nbells]

Thanks very much for your write up.

Much appreciated

nbells

[Russell Skinner]

Is it best to place the spacer rings on the top bearing block adjacent to the fixed ring on the main shaft or on the lower bearing block adjacent to the main gear?

Originally Posted by nbells

Thanks very much for your write up.

Much appreciated

nbells

Second that!

[Way2evl]

The main shaft collar needs to sit on the spacers to make any kind of difference, so on the top bearing block.

[Russell Skinner]

Thanks. Easier to install that way I would thik as well.

[Pard]

If anyone is selling their parts from the 500 flybar conversion, I need a set of main blade grips. PM if you are selling. Thanks.

[nivaldin]

For everybody that did this conversion...

My question is: It worth?
I'm not talking about the beauty of the DFC on the Heli, but the flight as well.

Thanks.

[Deet]

Originally Posted by nivaldin

For everybody that did this conversion...

My question is: It worth?
I'm not talking about the beauty of the DFC on the Heli, but the flight as well.

Thanks.

absolutely, without a doubt, better

[snjbird]

I still have to convert my 500, but the improvement on my 600 is huge, I hope this upgrades improvement are not unilateral. I suspect they are not, and the benefits will improve the whole lineup!

[nmdesertracer]

Waiting for my DFC to come in from overseas. The wait is killing me..I already got the short swash balls for the beastx. Are the OEM DFC dampeners harder then the regular FBL head?

[Deet]

Originally Posted by nmdesertracer

. Are the OEM DFC dampeners harder then the regular FBL head?

didn't compare them but they are certainly performing well, i have felt i need to replace them

There is now a DFC damper as a different part number. Cant say if they are different to the old black dampers or that they are the ones that shipped with the upgrade kit

[-=RAGE=-]

The black rubber dampers are the same like the black ones in the old head.
My recommendation: Go for the newer POM dampers: Align H50188.

[ddj74]

I bought Trueblood dampeners from the get go. Not sure if that's a good thing or not but it definitely has no play/wobble. Not that i could put them to the test anyways since i'm not attempting 3d yet...lol.

Also on a different subject i read that a lot had problems with getting "Blue" light on step "J" the 6 degree pitch setup part on the AR7200BX. I did too even with the shorter swash balls (was close but blue didn't light up till about 6.3) so i decided to go through my setup again. By setting my servo links measuring from center hole to center hole i had around 45mm in length (manual for the esp called for around 50mm) and using the 13.5mm holes on the servo arms. The DFC head links were pretty much bottomed out on both adjustable parts with both "A's" facing out. Then adjusted the servo's which all of them are pretty much centered till i achieved around zero pitch. Anything that was off i did not make adjustments on the links but through the controller on step "G" by moving the servo arms instead (minor tweaks like using a little trim). Finally after getting Zero pitch pretty much all around i redid the "J" setup and blue showed up after 5.5 so easily made 6 degree pitch with blue. Right on the money. Hope this might help a few but i'm sure each persons setup is different.

[-=RAGE=-]

The goal is to eleminate the dampening of the spindle inside the main rotor housing.
The rigid linkages become overloaded, when using too soft damper rubbers. The result is an early wear out of the ball links.
With the new POM dampers, the head dampening will be displaced into the blades.

Of course, higher head speeds are necessary.

I hope you can understand, what I will say with my poor English.

[Way2evl]

Originally Posted by -=RAGE=-

The goal is to eleminate the dampening of the spindle inside the main rotor housing.
The rigid linkages become overloaded, when using too soft damper rubbers. The result is an early wear out of the ball links.
With the new POM dampers, the head dampening will be displaced into the blades.

Of course, higher head speeds are necessary.

I hope you can understand, what I will say with my poor English.

Makes perfect sense. Makes up for the somewhat flawed design of the DFC HEAD.

When you say more head speed, how much faster or what kind of speeds are you referring to?

[Deet]

its fine at 2500 RPM, not sure you would go lower than that anyway

[Way2evl]

He said you would need HIGHER head speed with those POM dampners. I was wondering what meant for higher. I'm already governed 100% with 2700 HS.

[krauley]

Originally Posted by Deet

Its the short swash balls you need on the innerswashn and as there are only 2 links now its pretty obvious where they need to go

just to be sure on the ball size, im thinking you are talking about ball "A" from this pictures of the 500efl manual.



i am upgrading my 500efl pro and my esp to the DFC head and just making sure im using the right balls

thanks Deet

[Deet]

whatever balls the grip links used to go on, hard to tell from that pick but it does look like the A is correct

[-=RAGE=-]

Originally Posted by Way2evl

Makes perfect sense. Makes up for the somewhat flawed design of the DFC HEAD.

When you say more head speed, how much faster or what kind of speeds are you referring to?

Still waiting for my POM dampers.
You can reduce the head speed, till the machine starts to wobble.
Or: The harder you fly, the higher the head speed - 2700+

[krauley]

Originally Posted by Deet

whatever balls the grip links used to go on, hard to tell from that pick but it does look like the A is correct

sorry about the bad picture there, but thanks for the reply. the link from the grip does indeed connection to an A ball on the swash.

as for my esp to DFC conversion, my swash only has the B balls on it, do i need change these out for the shorter A ball or will i be ok with the current setup?

appreciate it