Brushless Nano Cpx. Post your setup and discussion thread.

[Go for it]

Originally Posted by Strangedaze

Changes..

1. MCPX mainshaft cut sorter..
2. Nano main shaft simply inserted into in top of previous cut short MCPX mainshaft..
3. Slighty modified McpX Swashlinks.. Plastic mount Cut shorter so that they go a bit lower..
4. Cut AR guide from frame and CA'd at the Back so can use MH rear AR guide pin too..

Haven't you gain weight lately my dear.

[drroc]

So what are the Astroid parts that I need to make a conversion for the main motor?

Looks like I need the Xp-3A esc, the USB flashing stick, but I am not sure what motor and pinion is needed.

[drroc]

What motor would I need for the BL conversion? Astroid doesn't list on their site the application of the motors. But besides the motor, I would just need the Xp-3a ESC and the BL USB stick, right?

[lje553]

I am still trying this crazy thing yet alone go brushless! You guys are doing some really cool stuff on such a tiny platform. I am going to go brushless on my mcpx tough it is so underpowered.

[Ampdraw]

Quick vid of my bl Nano.

As you can hear I have a squished tooth on the main gear and the camera cut out.

Anyway...

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gpdtNpDRprU[/ame]

Amp

[Spinaltap]

Nice flying seems the setups works very well


450 Pro FBL: 3800kv, HB-800 Fbl Gyro - Blade Ncpx

[755 robert]

Nice flying Amp,cant wait to get mine done...

[Bjanzen]

Amp,

That is a great BL setup...... I guess I need to give mine another go. I am frustrated with it at the moment and it has been set aside for a week or so. Maybe I need to have a look at the settings you refer to. My spool up is dependent on tail input and I have tail blowout that was never there. I may have a little more power than stock but not that noticeable. Kinda been waiting for a few more to convert theirs and be able to give advice.....

[donaldsneffe]

Well, because Dylan still does not sell stuff to modify the frame and I did not dare to cut the front part of the canopy to mount a HP03, I thought it would be easier to try the tiny Turnigy 1015 Inrunner.
I thought, it would be easier - it was horrible to get the motor into the frame. Made a baseplate of an old mCP x frame and stuff like this - but then it was not possible to squeeze the motor in its place, ...
Anyway, I managed to do it. Played around for quite a time; today I had done it - perfect gear mesh, and so on.
I use a Supermicro 3.5 with changed fets BL heli 8.0.

This evening first flight: I could not believe - the motor seems to be much too weak, he Nano hardly hovers. Weight is 28 g, so ok.

So now I would like to ask, if anyone else used this motor - is it really too weak or is my motor broken?
This was really a huge disappointment - maybe the hardest Sisyphus-work I have ever done

Stupid me

HP03 is waiting, but frame modifications seem to be too difficult for me.
Will try the Turnigy on 2s

Walter

[Ampdraw]

Walter,
If you know how to setup Blheli properly and have decent power in wires (I'm using a Hyperion connector that comes with the 180 1s style packs and 26awg wire straight to esc no plugs and direct soldered main.
Anyway...maybe check the soldering between the esc and main but my guess would be that motor just won't be powerful enough and it's also low Kv. I tried a 1220 on my Mcpx and it was barely better than stock if at all.

Bjanzen,
Not sure what you're using but Blheli is pretty sweet. I set up in gov arm mode and run 0,63 norm. Power up in norm mode at bottom throttle, hold full left rudder (mode 2 tx) while sliding to full throttle, pause 1 sec (if it is done too fast seems esc can misread), back to zero and takeoff. Then switch to idle 2 which does nothing for main but allows for the deep V tail curve mix.


Amp

[xs4reak]

Originally Posted by donaldsneffe

Well, because Dylan still does not sell stuff to modify the frame and I did not dare to cut the front part of the canopy to mount a HP03, I thought it would be easier to try the tiny Turnigy 1015 Inrunner.
I thought, it would be easier - it was horrible to get the motor into the frame. Made a baseplate of an old mCP x frame and stuff like this - but then it was not possible to squeeze the motor in its place, ...
Anyway, I managed to do it. Played around for quite a time; today I had done it - perfect gear mesh, and so on.
I use a Supermicro 3.5 with changed fets BL heli 8.0.

This evening first flight: I could not believe - the motor seems to be much too weak, he Nano hardly hovers. Weight is 28 g, so ok.

So now I would like to ask, if anyone else used this motor - is it really too weak or is my motor broken?
This was really a huge disappointment - maybe the hardest Sisyphus-work I have ever done

Stupid me

HP03 is waiting, but frame modifications seem to be too difficult for me.
Will try the Turnigy on 2s

Walter

HAHAHA! I know how you feel. Couldn't wait any longer, too. Yesterday I have been fighting to get a 1015 into the frame as well. Cut the lower part out of the frame and made 2 dummy servo mounting plates to keep the frame together. Then I made a base plate out of PCB material, mounted the motor and spaced out the servos.I hope I will get the ESC connected tonight and make a test flight.

Your post does make me a bit anxious though about the outcome of the test flight (or hover or just spinning blades )

What pinion are you using? 8T?

[donaldsneffe]

Hi,

Originally Posted by Ampdraw

Walter,
If you know how to setup Blheli properly and have decent power in wires (I'm using a Hyperion connector that comes with the 180 1s style packs and 26awg wire straight to esc no plugs and direct soldered main.
Anyway...maybe check the soldering between the esc and main but my guess would be that motor just won't be powerful enough and it's also low Kv. I tried a 1220 on my Mcpx and it was barely better than stock if at all.

well, I am sure that plugs and wires are ok.
I would like to hear any other experiences with the motor before I keep on working on this Nano
So I will wait for xs4reaks results.
I had quite a lot of troubles when building this heli.
When squeezing the motor in (or trying) I broke the wires inside the motor. To my surprise I could repair it - opened the motor and could solder the 6 wires inside the motor (3 x 2) to new 24 AWG wires - and it worked.
Broke the connection plate on the Supermicro 3.5 - thought it was broken, but again to my surprise I could repair it (with quite a lot of solder on the - pole).
Tested motor/ESC in the heli without main gear/rotor connected - the stuff seemed to run perfectly again; tested also some other motors on board/ESC (HP03s, several tailmotors) - everything seemed to work perfectly again.
Gear mesh is perfect, main rotor connected to motor runs smooth.
If xs4reaks has good results with his 1015, I will first try another ESC and then buy another 1015

To the 1220:
It was my very first brushless motor in the mCP x last summer. Weak, you are right, exchanged it soon.
But some weeks ago I made a 2s mCP x with the 1220 - and this works awsome

Originally Posted by xs4reak

HAHAHA! I know how you feel. Couldn't wait any longer, too. Yesterday I have been fighting to get a 1015 into the frame as well. Cut the lower part out of the frame and made 2 dummy servo mounting plates to keep the frame together. Then I made a base plate out of PCB material, mounted the motor and spaced out the servos.I hope I will get the ESC connected tonight and make a test flight.

Your post does make me a bit anxious though about the outcome of the test flight (or hover or just spinning blades )

What pinion are you using? 8T?

Dummy servo plates were very, very helpful for me, too.
I used the dummy plates that came with my Rakonheli mCP x v1 frame - worked perfectly.
Anyway, horrible work.

I hope, your motor will give better results.

I use stock pinion from a broken brushed Nano motor (7t).

Good luck!

Walter

[Ampdraw]

Dylan has his bl nano stuff up.
http://astroid-designs.myshopify.com/collections/ncpx

Amp

[donaldsneffe]

Originally Posted by Ampdraw

Dylan has his bl nano stuff up.
http://astroid-designs.myshopify.com/collections/ncpx

Amp

Not yet available - also looking on his site countless times.

Anyway, hope he will sell the frame braces only; dont need motor, dont need esc

Walter

Edit:
he will: http://astroid-designs.myshopify.com...n-frame-braces

[Bjanzen]

Originally Posted by Ampdraw

Walter,


Bjanzen,
Not sure what you're using but Blheli is pretty sweet. I set up in gov arm mode and run 0,63 norm. Power up in norm mode at bottom throttle, hold full left rudder (mode 2 tx) while sliding to full throttle, pause 1 sec (if it is done too fast seems esc can misread), back to zero and takeoff. Then switch to idle 2 which does nothing for main but allows for the deep V tail curve mix.


Amp

Amp,
I guess I should do some reading on how this ESC works. I have the 13500 Astroid Designs motor w/ 7t pinion and the 3a ESC. I ordered it flashed with 7.0 from Dylan. I have the flashing stick but haven't tried it out yet. My first flights were weak so on Dylans recommendations I removed all the connections and hard wired everything. I get about 50g of thrust....... Better than my stock motor (wish I had measured it before I tore into this) but still not as vivid as your video of yours.......

[xs4reak]

Originally Posted by donaldsneffe

So I will wait for xs4reaks results.
.....
If xs4reaks has good results with his 1015, I will first try another ESC and then buy another 1015

Good luck!

Walter

I can confirm: "Walter, dein motor ist wahrscheinlich im Eimer"

I run the 1015 with a XP3 and 7T from my stock motor. Pitch pumps are a bit slow, but AUW is 33.4 g now (including lots and lots of excess wiring to be taken care of)





BTW: I don't have a clue of which settings are OK for this motor (timing etc) Can you help me out, Walter?

Thanks!

Martin.

[donaldsneffe]

Hi,

Originally Posted by xs4reak

I can confirm: "Walter, dein motor ist wahrscheinlich im Eimer"

So ein Sch...

I run the 1015 with a XP3 and 7T from my stock motor. Pitch pumps are a bit slow, but AUW is 33.4 g now (including lots and lots of excess wiring to be taken care of)

Mine is only about 1 g lighter (including battery, stock canopy, skids, tail rod instead of tube) - so you can save quite a lot of weight.
Will not even try with the TDR canopy, skids and bigger batteries.

Well, the motor is out of stock at HK actually anyway.
But if the results are that weak, even with a good 1015, I probably will not buy a new one.
Will try 2s on the 1015 for fun - lets see what happens

BTW: I don't have a clue of which settings are OK for this motor (timing etc) Can you help me out, Walter?

Thanks!

Martin.

No, sorry.
I am a nob in flashing, too.

Used converters for main and tail escs flashed by Steffen Skaug last winter up till now (with very good results in all of my mCP x).
Have the Robbe box of 4712 for about two weeks now.
Also would need advice for all those settings - cant really find a "manual or tutorial" for the settings so far.

Used the preset settings for Supermicro main in BL heli 8.0 (and the preset settings for XP-3a, XP-7A, Turnigy Plush 10 A, RC timer 6A - with good results).

Sorry,

Walter

[TonyTypeS]

Looks like my main motor is starting to loose power. Just in time for Dylan's BL setup. I can't wait to get more flights in with my Nano and hopefully get more power with less bogging

[mdecker79]

Ordered!

[TheMark]

Originally Posted by mdecker79

Ordered!

me2