600Pro main blades

[apper001]

Am in the market for something better than my 3G's, 620's max rpm 2300.

Checked out the local webshop but Jeeessss crazy brand choices:
DH Blades, RotorTech, Halo, High Score, Heli Tec, KBDD, MS Composit, NHP, Rail Blades, RJX, SAB, Spinblades, Switch, Zeal,

So no clue what i should buy here...hoping you guys can help me out a bit here

PS: if you wanna see the selection from the local webshop:

http://rcoutlet.ch/Artikel/Rotorbl%C...r-ab-600mm.asp

[Heli.Maniac]

I believe that you can't go wrong with either RotorTech or Switch. It depends a lot on personal preference though. If you have flown Edge in the past and you liked them, Switch is what you need. I haven't tried out RTs yet but I am hearing a lot of very good feedback from other pilots

[apper001]

Checked some blades specs. Seems that 90% of the blades have the same dimensions, around the same weight, can't check the shape but guess they all use more or less the same airfoil.

Nothing about the core or CG's to be found.

Maybe i should goto the shop with the Pro and ask if i can try them all out

PS. listened to BK on RCHN, so guess i can't go wrong with the Switch Blades.

[TR450ZS]

A good spellchecker will confirm that "blade" is spelt R A I L...
And with them you simply cannot go wrong.

[apper001]

ThX for the correction.

Any more info on why you like Railblades so much?

[TR450ZS]

I just like the way they fly, really crisp and controlled. In have tried Edge as well as stock blades, and the Rails just come out tops.

[rcflyerheli]

At some point, the new VTX blades sound really promising.

[Mike656]

Just got a set of SAB TBs for my 600, should try them out today. Been liking the way the TBs fly on my 700.

[Smoggie]

Originally Posted by apper001

Am in the market for something better than my 3G's, 620's max rpm 2300.

You cant use 620mm blades on the 600 Pro/L unless you do a stretch. There is only just enough main to tail blade clearance with stock 600mm blades, 5mm is about all you have to play with.

[reichly]

Originally Posted by Grumpy_Old_Man

You cant use 620mm blades on the 600 Pro/L unless you do a stretch. There is only just enough main to tail blade clearance with stock 600mm blades, 5mm is about all you have to play with.

How about Cyclone 615's? I have them on my Pro and now I worry that I shouldn't run them. I have the Cyclone 95's on the tail.

[Heli.Maniac]

Originally Posted by reichly

How about Cyclone 615's? I have them on my Pro and now I worry that I shouldn't run them. I have the Cyclone 95's on the tail.

If this is a DFC head you run quite a big risk with those blades. Even with the EFL head I wouldn't fit them on my Pro because the clearance is so tight that it is just a matter of luck whether the blades will touch each other. What you can do to is fit the TT and boom from the 700 which will you plenty of clearance to run both 615s and 105s on the tail with room to spare.
Another thing I did to fit 105mm tails with my Align 600mm mains was to drill the hole in the boom for the tail case to an oval shape so that the tail case can be shifted towards the rear a bit more to give me just enough clearance to run them without issues. But this won't give you the 15mm or so you need unfortunately.

[reichly]

Originally Posted by Heli.Maniac

If this is a DFC head you run quite a big risk with those blades. Even with the EFL head I wouldn't fit them on my Pro because the clearance is so tight that it is just a matter of luck whether the blades will touch each other. What you can do to is fit the TT and boom from the 700 which will you plenty of clearance to run both 615s and 105s on the tail with room to spare.
Another thing I did to fit 105mm tails with my Align 600mm mains was to drill the hole in the boom for the tail case to an oval shape so that the tail case can be shifted towards the rear a bit more to give me just enough clearance to run them without issues. But this won't give you the 15mm or so you need unfortunately.

Yep, I agree. I am going to pull them off until I can do a stretch on it. I tried previously to do a 35mm stretch but I had problems making the torque tube and the tail servo rod. The Boom I have already made.

I originally tried the 700 boom, TT and servo rod but just it looked way too long to me.

[Heli.Maniac]

Originally Posted by reichly

Yep, I agree. I am going to pull them off until I can do a stretch on it. I tried previously to do a 35mm stretch but I had problems making the torque tube and the tail servo rod. The Boom I have already made.

I originally tried the 700 boom, TT and servo rod but just it looked way too long to me.

There is a way to make your own TT at the length you need but it requires a bit of work, measuring and test fitting. All you need is the TT ends from an old TT which you can pin to the new longer TT rod. This is the best solution because you can get the clearance you need without the heli becoming tail heavy or looking out of proportion. For the tail servo rod, I think that all you need is some hollow CF tubing of the right diameter and length and the ends of the old rod which can be epoxied on the new longer CF tube.

[reichly]

Originally Posted by Heli.Maniac

There is a way to make your own TT at the length you need but it requires a bit of work, measuring and test fitting. All you need is the TT ends from an old TT which you can pin to the new longer TT rod. This is the best solution because you can get the clearance you need without the heli becoming tail heavy or looking out of proportion. For the tail servo rod, I think that all you need is some hollow CF tubing of the right diameter and length and the ends of the old rod which can be epoxied on the new longer CF tube.

Thanx Maniac...
I will bring this project back to the front of my project list. Excellent ideas!

[Smoggie]

I'd not run anything more than 605mm blades on the 'unstretched' 600 Pro DFC, maybe a few mm longer on the FB (non-DFC) version.

I've done the stretch on mine so if there is any help you need. Basically you use the trex 700 parts.
The TT is the most work. The drive spigots in the ends are threaded in (left handed threads). Remove one spigot by screwing out then cut the tube down to required length. You loose the internal threads in the tube when you cut so you have to file down the threads on the spigot until it's a tight force fit into the end up the tube. Rough the inside of the tube with sandpaper and secure the spigot with red loctite or epoxy. Drill through tube and spigot 2mm and put a nut/bolt through to prevent the spigot working loose.

It should look like this:

[cobieg]

Originally Posted by Grumpy_Old_Man

I'd not run anything more than 605mm blades on the 'unstretched' 600 Pro DFC, maybe a few mm longer on the FB (non-DFC) version.

I've done the stretch on mine so if there is any help you need. Basically you use the trex 700 parts.
The TT is the most work. The drive spigots in the ends are threaded in (left handed threads). Remove one spigot by screwing out then cut the tube down to required length. You loose the internal threads in the tube when you cut so you have to file down the threads on the spigot until it's a tight force fit into the end up the tube. Rough the inside of the tube with sandpaper and secure the spigot with red loctite or epoxy. Drill through tube and spigot 2mm and put a nut/bolt through to prevent the spigot working loose.

It should look like this:

+1 on stretching. I just posted in the scale section on how I did a tt. after I crashed my 600 stretched w/640 mains.
scale projects <790 Trex 550 stretch for 700 size scale 206, post #8

If you already have the boom cut then all you have to do is insert the tt and measure 5.5mm from the boom end and cut it. Heat the stub piece and unscrew the spline. I chuck it in a drill press and use a file to cut it down. I put a little taper on the inside with a razor knife. I also use a length of aluminum angle in a vice with a couple bearings on the tt to run it true. I use (and I know people don't trust it but it has never let me down) JB weld quick set. put it inside the tube and inside the spline. Roll it back and forth on the bearings so the glue doesn't pool and cause an out of balance, takes about 5 min. I drill and pin mine with a piece of pushrod wire from an old crashed foamy with red locktite. never had one come loose or break even in a bad crash.
Tail pushrod can be made out of a mix of new 600 and a crashed one joined at the sleeve. just drill out the end w/a 3/16 drill. Cut to length and again jb weld. easy enough.

Ron

[reichly]

Thanx You Guys. You just saved me about 4 or more hours of trial and error. Much appreciated.

[cobieg]

Originally Posted by reichly

Thanx You Guys. You just saved me about 4 or more hours of trial and error. Much appreciated.

If you are using a 700 boom, you will need to make the notch longer to match the 600. The screw hole on the side then can be marked and drilled.

[reichly]

Update: I performed the stretch as per all of your recommended steps and it worked flawlessly. The only change I did was I didn't remove all of the left hand threads off of the TT end after removing it from the TT. I chucked it in my drill press and with a very fine miniature flat file I removed the threads at a taper leaving almost all of the threads at the top and very little evidence of them at the end that you insert into the TT.

I then used a couple of old gears and clamped one in my small vice with the TT end inside facing up and tightened it pretty tight. I then coated the what was left of the threads with Lock-Tite. After trimming the TT to length I placed another gear over the end that was still on the TT and clamped it tight with a pair of small Vice Grips which gave me the ability to thread it onto the TT end that was in the vice. I verified I was as straight as I could be and threaded it on all the way down. I felt it reach the end and stop turning and torqued on it a bit to make sure it was tight.

I am not sure that they cut threads inside the TT's and instead let the TT end create the threads.

Lastly I want to thank all of you who helped me as well as others here. I am going to put on my 615's now and run them without worrying about the clearance.

[apper001]

Gonna get me some VTX 600'ers when they finally hit the market....