NEW - Kasama Dune 600 Build

[Mercuriell]

Originally Posted by Gavin B

Hi John,

Looking good! The rear canopy mounts are positioned in the top hole of the tail boom clamp and you should have some purple coloured cnc doublers that are fitted to the elevator arm bearings on the frame KSM 10-50C08. Sorry about the no manual! We are going to email you a manual to help you out :-)

I'm looking forward to Piotr's build pics too!

Regards

Gavin

Thanks Gav - I tried upper and lower mount positions with the rear canopy mount and the lower seemed to lie better but rechecking now the upper hole looks right! Found the bling - not too sure about the colour so may leave it to later to decide whether to fit

[Mercuriell]

Gears are secured to hubs using 8 M3x8mm countersunk bolts. The main gear contains the needle roller OWB and two rubber shielded radial bearings. The crown gear hub contains an epoxied in grub screw as part of an innovative mast locking system.




Note orinentation of hubs and locking collar - this has a sleeve which has to engage within the main gear hub otherwise you don't have enough height for the gear assembly in the frame !




Setp in lower mast engages 8mm ID bearing in lower bearing block and slot in mast engages set screw in crown gear hub




Assembled gears - note the protrusion of the lower mast step after it is fully engaged in the crown gear hub and the upper collar with sleeve pointing down towards the main gear hub




Gear assembly in situ - crown gear hub and upper collar secured with pinch collars and end-float taken up by adjustment of upper bearing block height.

[Mercuriell]

Not really a lot to do here - quite a simple setup as compared to previous Srimoks with mixing arms and flybarred heads!




Swash driven by arms off the rotor head as in the low rider Srimok head.




Bag 12 containing rotor head bits - 8mm x 88mm spindle




Usual Kasama dampers - 3 orings per side as in the Srimok - the older Trex head Srimok upgrade had 2 orings per side! NB the oil on the spindle bolts which needs cleaning off before Loctiting in the M4 bolts




Very solid mounting of arms to blade grips with two M4 bolts - shorter goes outboard as it lies over a radial bearing. Bearings ready assembled in grip.




Completed head - elegant simplicity






So far so good

[Gavin B]

Hi John,

Lock the upper bearing block temporarily in the fully up position before installing the mainshaft and auto hub assembly.

Use the lower hole in the headblock that will put it in the correct position. Also some detail on the mainshaft lock. The part number mark on the mainshaft indicates the side that the slot is on for easy positioning. Also when you rotate and tighten the M3 screw to lock the clamp you hold the head and push against the screw while tightening. This automatically turns it in the right direction. Rotate it all the way home for correct postion.

Then leave the top collar loose and push the upper bearing block down. Make sure that the collar goes home into the autohub. Only push down lightly and tighten the bearing block. Only take out the backlash in the mainshaft no pressure is needed. After that you can tighten the top collar.

Kindest Regards

Gavin

[treesnake]

Looking good John, great build thread.

Nice work Gavin & Kasama, ok now I cant wait !

[ChadL]

Originally Posted by Mercuriell

Front frames joined with battery and ESC tray in situ

I thoght the Dune was supposed to have a new helical gear drive?

[BenScoobert]

Originally Posted by ChadL

I thoght the Dune was supposed to have a new helical gear drive?

The main gear and pinion are.

The helical TT gears are not finished. They may be included at a later date but that is Kasama's call, from what I understand they have tried very hard to get it right, but it is not ready.
I can imaging it will be a pricier item, is it such a good idea to make a sacrificial part more expensive?
I think it was mentioned on the video.

[Mercuriell]

Originally Posted by ChadL

I thoght the Dune was supposed to have a new helical gear drive?

q.v. Opening post

[Mercuriell]

Bag mounting hardware - four o-ring damped formersand 11t pinion - 6mm ID. Mount can take 25-30mm / M3-4 motormounts.




One of only two instances of difficulty fitting parts together - the pinion has a sleeve applied to the top where it goes into the pinion support block bearing - this was 10mm and interference fit with ID of bearing in block - need to have this a smooth sliding fit so I dressed the collar and took off a few 1/00s of a mm !




Which one to choose - I like the red one - there is ample room for motors 65mm vertical clearance and 57mm between frame openings which would probably accommodate a 60mm diameter motor. I think principle choice is determined by kV - the gear ratio is low 9.45:1 (which would suit 10S very well BTW). Much higher than 500 kV with some ESC would put max revs up above 3000 which is well above recommended redline of 2400. I went for a Pyro 700-45 and will probably use a PJ 80 HV ESC




11t oblique cut pinion is secured with single grub screw and mount is secured to motor with x2 M4 bolts.




To allow pinion support block to seat, top of pinion gearing should be level with top of main gear

[abanihani]

Great build John as always. I bought the pyro 700-52 and helijive 120, planning on 12s setup with 3850 mAh. Is that too much with this gear ratio?

[abanihani]

I used 104 tooth main gear and Mr. Mel HS calculator I am getting 2200 rpm at 63% mode 4, I think that is great on a 600 class. Can you John confirm the main gear tooth number?

[Mercuriell]

Lower battery mounting tray also serves as frame stiffener. Bit different from the Faifa it has an extra damped mount in the middle and a tongue at the front which serves as a spacer to line up the frame mounting holes.




Front bracket secured with 8mm M3 bolts to incorporate the front "tongue" - middle and rear spacer secured with 6mm M3 bolts. Damped centre mount has two formers with 2 0-rings each.








Tray is secured in frame with the usual x3 M3x33mm sleeved bolts - makes removal very quick and easy. Distance between frame cutouts for motor is 57mm but as this is off-centre you could probably fit a 60 mm diameter motor in there if you had to !!




Plenty of room for a Pyro 700 - vertical clearance is 65mm but this could easily be stretched with spacers to tray mounts if you had to!

[Mercuriell]

Originally Posted by abanihani

Great build John as always. I bought the pyro 700-52 and helijive 120, planning on 12s setup with 3850 mAh. Is that too much with this gear ratio?

Originally Posted by abanihani

I used 104 tooth main gear and Mr. Mel HS calculator I am getting 2200 rpm at 63% mode 4, I think that is great on a 600 class. Can you John confirm the main gear tooth number?

Yes the main gear is 104t and pinion 11 - I think the HJ and Kosmik is fine with the 700-52 - the PJ puts the HS up rather higher which concerned me a bit so I ripped out the 700-45 from my Quest Impaction build as I have a spare PJ 80 HV I was planning to use - I might just stick a Kosmik in for fun

I agree 2200 is a very nice HS for the 600 with maybe boost available, in IU2 to 2400, when the Need For Speed becomes uncontrollable - Gavin is very definite that HS over 2400 is not recommended on this heli and as he's been test flying this heli for over a year with many different configurations I would certainly respect this advice

[Mercuriell]

Bag contents include elevator arm axle - ground to take two grub screws for elevator crank base and ground on the end to take link control lever. Snugging up the crank and lever to the frame bearings on the axle prevents any possibility of lateral movement. The A-frame linkage articulates with the crank with two M2.5 bolts via flange bearings. A 2.5mm threaded rod is Loctited into A-Lever and the ball link screwed right down to the A-Lever. Long 2.5mm stainless steel pushrod articulates with servo output lever.




Neutral position is when black control lever parallel with edge of frame q.v. below




Critical that elevator crank is installed with part number upwards (and grub screws downwards) otherwise shaft indents all line up wrong !




Full down position - not a lot of clearance with pushrod and maingear at extremes of travel !




Squared up the linkage comes out at 115mm between ball link centres - neutral position is with the line opf the axle and crank bolt centres square to the mast - which corresponds to the black lever parallel with frame edge - coincidence methinks not !

[Mercuriell]

Cyclic servo mounting hardware for M2.5 bolts - nut plates supplied for JR and Futaba servos though they are very similar and probably inter-changeable




Allow brackets to mount servos connected by a CF strip - unusual output horns to translate servo movement to swash !




Inferior view of mounting frame - note orientation of cyclic levers - they are different on each side!




Servos clamped onto alloy frame using CF strips




Mounted on frame using two M3x33 sleeve bolts




Base view of mounted servos - not using output disks but the T levers - need arm length of 16-18mm - supplied ball links with M2 bolts used for links



Top view - rear exit of wires should make up hook up to electrics easy




Mounted up with linkages - neutral position with top of cyclic lever parallel with frame

[treesnake]

Nice build thread Mate.

Is there the option of a 10 tooth pinion also ?

[Mercuriell]

Bag 17 contains tail rotor, gearbox, vertical fin and linkage - pretty well all the same as Srimok except tail rotor had been carefully matched and checked during assembly




Linkages exactly the same as the Srimok line - so can consult their manuals if need be




Pivot bolt that secures tail crank onto gearbox a critical point and I think merits red Loctite - or you can file a flat on the standoff and put an M3 Nyloc nut on there




Yoke and slider - NB though pre-assembled slider bronze bush not Loctited in so needs taking out and careful Loctite applied so as not to bleed onto shaft or bearings. Only needs gentle tightening up with a 7mm spanner. My slider had a burr in it that needed polishing out to enable friction free sliding. Half ball-links need fixing to tail rotor blade grips and plastic linkage arms need fixing to yoke with longer M2.5 bolts. I used red Loctite on all these.




Completed assembly save for clipping on plastic links onto half-balls

[Mercuriell]

Originally Posted by treesnake

Nice build thread Mate.

Is there the option of a 10 tooth pinion also ?

Not at present Lee - I asked Kasama just that the other night - he wasn't sure - but he's gonna calculate it out - would be a useful option for 12S!

[Mercuriell]

The torque tube is an Easton arrow shaft with 1 support bearing which needs carefully CA'ing in place avoiding fouling the bearings and using the adjacent spacers to set it square as the CA sets - once set the plastic surround can be eased over.The TT needs inserting from the rear end as the support spacer in the front of the boom is a bit too tight for comfort. The rear of the boom as a slot cut and hole drilled to take the tail gearbox.




The boom is eased into the front case and as can be seen below, the TT coupling is well proud of the boom unlike on the Srimok - there is a viewing hole cut in the frame on both sides to ensure the boom is completely inserted (should advance just to the right margin of hole)




The boom is secured by tightening the clamp bolts (arrowed) until the boom is firmly gripped - should not overtighten and clamps should not meet together in the middle!




The boom can be further fixed in place using an M3 x 6mm bolt in the upper boom case hole arrowed after drilling the boom underneath with a 2.5mm hand drill to avoid damaging the thread of the alloy




The boom support clamp has a clever feature whereby a set screw can be inserted into the upper hole (arrowed) which splays the clamp apart allowing it to be slid down the boom without damaging the surface finish




The tail gearbox is slid into the boom, engaging the TT, after sliding on the fin support clamp which has an M3 pinch bolt




The gearbox is finally locked in place using a special M4 pin bolt which locates into the middle hole of the gearbox hub. Make absolutely sure the hole in clamp, CF boom and tail gearbox are perfectly lined up before screwing the pin bolt in otherwise you run the risk of stripping the alloy thread in the clamp!




Finally the tail pushrod can be made up and inserted through the pushrod support clamp after lining up the heatshrink tube to the correct location.

[Mercuriell]

Nd that's just about done with the build - no more parts left in bags (other than the purple bling bits ) - not a difficult build - should be able to do it in a day without having to film, photo and post !!! RTFM ? WFM?????

ANyway I'll have a fiddle about with the ESC and FBL and post up the remaioning videos over the next week but anyone wanting to build and has NFM or not clear on the one they have might find some help here

A couple of high def photos for those who want frame detail: LEFT RIGHT