START HERE |
|
Register | FAQ | PM | Events | Groups | Blogs | Calendar | Mark Forums Read |
Unregistered
|
nano CP X Brushless Mods Blade nano CP X Brushless Mods Information and Help |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
10-16-2012, 05:06 AM | #41 (permalink) | |
Registered Users
Join Date: Sep 2012
|
Quote:
I purchased all my canopies from:- http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/inde...page=3&sort=1a Pretty sure I've since seen them all for sale on ebay too. |
|
Sponsored Links | |||
Advertisement |
|
10-16-2012, 08:05 AM | #42 (permalink) | |
Registered Users
Join Date: Sep 2011
|
Hey indoorheli thanks a lot
i totally agree with you about 5! and a ratio of 1.75 for 4 seconds if the tail holds is really great, and never be achieved with a mCP. I'll get my greedy hands on one as soon as i'm done with this freakin' thesis, again thanks for your feedback. one more question, is it enough to wear the motors in for like 3-4 hower flights (no right pyros) with about half throttle? Prost Quote:
|
|
10-16-2012, 11:26 AM | #43 (permalink) | ||
Registered Users
Join Date: Sep 2012
|
Help.....
Okay... I have been dying to get my NanoCPx Brushless......
I have the Dylan motor and ESC but am stuck with the ESC.... Problem is I should have asked Dylan to flash it and I ordered a new one from him last night. I have the stick and have fought it for two evenings now. I am going cross eyed. I am having connection problems when flashing. I have checked my connection..... Could it be a driver problem? Could someone point me to a YouTube video maybe on doing the process? Thanks
PS.... I did find one. Is this right? |
||
10-16-2012, 01:04 PM | #44 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Feb 2012
|
nano kits
Ive just finished the final design of my parts I have made to convert mine to brushless...all I need now is my 8 tooth gear for the motor and I will give it a test...
I made a two part spacer for the servo the first is a frame stiffener / spacer and the second is the just a spacer..the black ring is the motor mount that is press fit in the frame... |
10-16-2012, 02:21 PM | #45 (permalink) | |
Registered Users
Join Date: Mar 2007
|
Quote:
Blhelisetup 7 has a bug for me when flashing new escs though, have to erase the chip first, or flash with an older version first. 8 was just released last night too, havent tried it yet though
__________________
Dylan ~ www.AstroidDesigns.com |
|
10-16-2012, 02:21 PM | #46 (permalink) | |
Registered Users
Join Date: Mar 2007
|
Quote:
__________________
Dylan ~ www.AstroidDesigns.com |
|
10-16-2012, 02:42 PM | #47 (permalink) | |
Registered Users
|
Quote:
|
|
10-16-2012, 02:44 PM | #48 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Mar 2007
|
Vibrations Effect tail hold more than anything else. Get rid of vibes.
__________________
Dylan ~ www.AstroidDesigns.com |
10-16-2012, 03:24 PM | #49 (permalink) | |
Registered Users
Join Date: Sep 2012
|
Quote:
Thanks...... I was told that the stick had to be soldered to other spots on the board or it would be ruined....... Just trying to make sure ;-) |
|
10-16-2012, 03:35 PM | #50 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Sep 2012
|
Just thought I would post my setup for the motor. Was quite simple..... Just a 1/16 G10 disk 8mm CA'd to the lower mount. I did have to carve a little space and slot for the motor screws.....
[IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] |
10-16-2012, 03:46 PM | #51 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Mar 2007
|
The 3 solder pads are identified in the blheli thread, first post, and in the supported esc pdf on github, links to both are in a new section "BlHeli info" on my site.
The solder joints have to be good, short wires between the stick and esc help. I use flux on the 3a pads to help get a good joint.
__________________
Dylan ~ www.AstroidDesigns.com |
10-16-2012, 03:47 PM | #52 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Mar 2007
|
Looks good, still dont like the long shaft needed using an unmodded hp03s though.
__________________
Dylan ~ www.AstroidDesigns.com |
10-16-2012, 03:50 PM | #53 (permalink) | |
Registered Users
Join Date: Sep 2012
|
Quote:
|
|
10-16-2012, 04:04 PM | #54 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Mar 2007
|
No, you have to solder to the pads in the middle of the board.
__________________
Dylan ~ www.AstroidDesigns.com |
10-16-2012, 04:08 PM | #55 (permalink) | |
Registered Users
Join Date: Dec 2011
|
Quote:
|
|
10-16-2012, 04:08 PM | #56 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Mar 2007
|
Do you want me to solder a 3 pin flashing plug on your esc? What toolstick are you using?
__________________
Dylan ~ www.AstroidDesigns.com |
10-16-2012, 04:09 PM | #57 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Sep 2012
|
Okay then..... Guess I will wait til you send me a new one..... I placed my order last night. I am sure your skills are much better than mine and WELL WORTH the 5 bucks ;-) I tried to solder to those spots and first time I unplugged my lead I pulled the positive pad off the board :-( Signal seems loose now as well. I ordered a set of three prongs..... Maybe you can just leave it on the board for me.... Hint hint ;-)
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|