KME Engines Diamond .60 Pro Owners Thread

[Mr.HillBilly]

I installed a KME pipe on my motor last weekend and since then on a cold motor (about 30F) as soon as I start it keeps loading up and will not idle until it gets semi warmed up. I need to keep pinching the fuel line to keep it from flooding out for about a min. or so, after motor is warmed up from a flight or what ever it will idle like normal.

Running WildCat CY 20% and OS #8 I did not want to start messing with low needle if this is common with the pipe.

[motomanmel]

Originally Posted by Mr.HillBilly

I installed a KME pipe on my motor last weekend and since then on a cold motor (about 30F) as soon as I start it keeps loading up and will not idle until it gets semi warmed up. I need to keep pinching the fuel line to keep it from flooding out for about a min. or so, after motor is warmed up from a flight or what ever it will idle like normal.

Running WildCat CY 20% and OS #8 I did not want to start messing with low needle if this is common with the pipe.

Take the low needle down to 1/4 turn out you will be fine.

[Mr.HillBilly]

Jerome you are quick. I will lean out the low end tomorrow and see how it does.

[NitroAl]

My KME has proven to be a bit of a lemon! It spat out a rear bearing with only 3 flights on it, now it has new bearings, when I tighten the fan onto the crank the bearings go tight! I bought the motor off a club mate so I know how many flights it has had in total and so I had no problem buying it off him even knowing it had already lunched a bearing!
I decided to pull it apart and check the bearings are seated corectly and to my horror I could see daylight through the front bearing when the crank was removed!
I replaced the front bearing with one from the redline 53 which is a R6 LU rubber coated metal shield instead of the R6 Z metal shield only bearing that has to be an air leak issue just waiting to happen! I also replaced the rear bearing with the stock item!
I re-assembled the motor and it is still the same I know the bearings are seated correctly, there is no denying my bearing press so it can only be a tollerence issue! either the crank is machined too short or the crankcase is too long!
Has any one else had this issue?
If anybody can give me the distance from thrust face on the front of the flywheel to the thrust face at the base of the output shaft in mm so I can asses which one I have to machine That would be great!
I will not let this engine defeat me, It's just too pretty to end up a paper weight!

Alex

[HeliTool]

Originally Posted by NitroAl

My KME has proven to be a bit of a lemon! It spat out a rear bearing with only 3 flights on it, now it has new bearings, when I tighten the fan onto the crank the bearings go tight! I bought the motor off a club mate so I know how many flights it has had in total and so I had no problem buying it off him even knowing it had already lunched a bearing!
I decided to pull it apart and check the bearings are seated corectly and to my horror I could see daylight through the front bearing when the crank was removed!
I replaced the front bearing with one from the redline 53 which is a R6 LU rubber coated metal shield instead of the R6 Z metal shield only bearing that has to be an air leak issue just waiting to happen! I also replaced the rear bearing with the stock item!
I re-assembled the motor and it is still the same I know the bearings are seated correctly, there is no denying my bearing press so it can only be a tollerence issue! either the crank is machined too short or the crankcase is too long!
Has any one else had this issue?
If anybody can give me the distance from thrust face on the front of the flywheel to the thrust face at the base of the output shaft in mm so I can asses which one I have to machine That would be great!
I will not let this engine defeat me, It's just too pretty to end up a paper weight!

Alex

Dude, I have 3 of the KME engines and never had a problem.

BTW if you look at any 90 size engine or any YS engine they come with one shield on the front bearing and its metal. If there is an air leak problem dont you think they would have the same problem.

KME is awesome with there warranty policy you should go to there web site and send them a e-mail they would solve your problem.

There was an article in the January Heli Mag giving the KME 9 out of 10. If the Mag had issues they would have told us...

Good Luck

[Davin 5]

A number of the dealers listed on the KME website don't have the engine in stock. Any tips on where else to buy one?

[Billigan]

My KME engine runs great! i"v never had a bit of trouble with it.

Originally Posted by Davin 5

A number of the dealers listed on the KME website don't have the engine in stock. Any tips on where else to buy one?

Jerome..... Where are you? Help this man out!

[motomanmel]

Originally Posted by Davin 5

A number of the dealers listed on the KME website don't have the engine in stock. Any tips on where else to buy one?

Yes, and sorry for the late reply. Youu can order one from any of the Delers on the dealers list on our site. But Heli Direct and FlyHeliRus has them in stock. Im shipping 5 more to Heli direct today.

[Davin 5]

Originally Posted by motomanmel

Yes, and sorry for the late reply. Youu can order one from any of the Delers on the dealers list on our site. But Heli Direct and FlyHeliRus has them in stock. Im shipping 5 more to Heli direct today.

Right on, thanks!

[bobbyra]

I got over 6 gallons gone through my kme and still got tons of power.

[NitroAl]

Originally Posted by HeliTool

Dude, I have 3 of the KME engines and never had a problem.

BTW if you look at any 90 size engine or any YS engine they come with one shield on the front bearing and its metal. If there is an air leak problem dont you think they would have the same problem.

KME is awesome with there warranty policy you should go to there web site and send them a e-mail they would solve your problem.

There was an article in the January Heli Mag giving the KME 9 out of 10. If the Mag had issues they would have told us...

Good Luck

I wasn't bagging KME engines, I am just saying that I got that "one in a million" engine! It's all good though, the local distributor has come to my rescue (good man!) and it will be good as gold soon!

[zosek]

Hello,

i have a question . My rear (the big one) bearing in engine just exploded (cage). Can anyone tell me its dimensions?

[nlco66]

Hi Matia, here is a link to WOH Shop in Germany, the bearings also fits the KME.

http://www.world-of-heli.de/antrieb-...056-tt-53.html

Bye the way.
One picture of our KME presentation on the Rotor Live event in Germany.

[mipo]

Originally Posted by NitroAl

My KME has proven to be a bit of a lemon! It spat out a rear bearing with only 3 flights on it, now it has new bearings, when I tighten the fan onto the crank the bearings go tight! .........
I re-assembled the motor and it is still the same I know the bearings are seated correctly, there is no denying my bearing press so it can only be a tollerence issue! either the crank is machined too short or the crankcase is too long!
Has any one else had this issue?
Alex

Alex,
I have exactly the same problem on the engine of my son Matija (Zosek on this forum). After ~5 gallons of Cool Power 30% the cage of the rear bearing broke. I have changed both bearings with new produced by SKF. I had experienced the same problem: the bearings went tight. Now Matija is ordering new (original) bearings, but I am not sure that this will solve the problem. It is the tolerance issue.

Jerome, can You give us a hint?

Best regards
Milos

[mipo]

Originally Posted by NitroAl

My KME has proven to be a bit of a lemon! It spat out a rear bearing with only 3 flights on it, now it has new bearings, when I tighten the fan onto the crank the bearings go tight!
..............
I re-assembled the motor and it is still the same I know the bearings are seated correctly, there is no denying my bearing press so it can only be a tollerence issue! either the crank is machined too short or the crankcase is too long!
Has any one else had this issue?
........
Alex

Alex,

I have exactly the same problem on the same engine from my son Matija (Zosek on this forum). After ~6 gallons the cage of the rear bearing broke. I replaced the bearings with new produced by FAG. And I experienced bearings went tight. With no fan everything is OK. It should be the tollerance issue.
What next? I will order new (original) bearings from World of Heli. But I am not sure that it will sove the problem as the bearings should be the same tollerance.

Jerome, do You have an answer to the issue?

Best regards
Miloš

[motomanmel]

Originally Posted by mipo

Alex,
I have exactly the same problem on the engine of my son Matija (Zosek on this forum). After ~5 gallons of Cool Power 30% the cage of the rear bearing broke. I have changed both bearings with new produced by SKF. I had experienced the same problem: the bearings went tight. Now Matija is ordering new (original) bearings, but I am not sure that this will solve the problem. It is the tolerance issue.

Jerome, can You give us a hint?

Best regards
Milos

Guys we did have some tolerance issues with the Rear bearings in some of the early models. We found that we had to have our Lathe in a climate controlled environment..
If you tightened the crank shaft down it would put some pressure on the rear bearing causing the rear bearing to fail.
If any of you have this problem please send it in we will supply you with a new crank case. You can send in the engine or just the crank we will get it back to you within 2 days.
The address is on our site.
http://www.kmeengines.com/Contact_Us.php
Thanks guys

[Fang]

G'Day Jerome
Want to ask a couple question about the kme 60 please!

Does the aluminum billet heat faster or slower than cast when flying and loading up the motor?
Can you tell us at what approximately open throttle barrel percentage, does the idle needle and main needle sort of cross over?
I ran TT 50 Pro's for and number of years, and burnt up a few, learning the process!!! And the main problem I had was running mid range to lean all the time! You had to have idle very, very rich to keep mid range right!
Ive just watched Tim Jones Tuning Vids and would like to know which needle on the KME with KME carby it more predominate for mid range tuning!! Or at what point do they seem to switch over from one to the other?
(The TT50 pro the idle needle had more influence over mid range throttle, once you were close to been on tune! I fixed this motor's rich idle, with a small air bleed at idle throttle settings, So I could richen up this idle screw to get mid range rich enough! But still run idle lean so it wouldn't stop! Ref: Ray Hostilers OS 46 fix, for lean mid range!)

So do we set main needle for wide open throttle only! (WOT) and adjust idle needle for just idle? Or do we need to compromise a little and have a richer idle to get mid range right??

We have a great KME dealer here in the OZ, due to the fact I got my first kme 60 that blew main bearing up on the third hover!!!!
Dealer (Extreme Heli's) here in Melbourne, sent me new bearings, and after I had replaced bearings and on this same motors third hover, it seized up!
I send it back, and Justin sent me new motor! So thank you Jerome for backing your dealers!!

So far Im on the third tank in my Extreme 50, and seem to have it working quite well! I'm a lot more in on my needles than yours or Justin's settings, But I seem to have very good pressure or low resistance fuel line system on this heli for some reason!
So Im down to 1.1 turns out on main and 0.3 to 0.4 out on idle needle, lots of smoke (20/20 cool power home brew) running 1750 to 1850 on head to run it in!
I'm lead to believe with all things been equal, that as a motor runs in, it will slowly gets richer! Would this be true for the KME as well?
Looking forward to getting back on the horse, as Ive been very quite with my flying of late!

Rolf

[motomanmel]

Originally Posted by Fang

G'Day Jerome
Want to ask a couple question about the kme 60 please!

Does the aluminum billet heat faster or slower than cast when flying and loading up the motor?
Can you tell us at what approximately open throttle barrel percentage, does the idle needle and main needle sort of cross over?
I ran TT 50 Pro's for and number of years, and burnt up a few, learning the process!!! And the main problem I had was running mid range to lean all the time! You had to have idle very, very rich to keep mid range right!
Ive just watched Tim Jones Tuning Vids and would like to know which needle on the KME with KME carby it more predominate for mid range tuning!! Or at what point do they seem to switch over from one to the other?
(The TT50 pro the idle needle had more influence over mid range throttle, once you were close to been on tune! I fixed this motor's rich idle, with a small air bleed at idle throttle settings, So I could richen up this idle screw to get mid range rich enough! But still run idle lean so it wouldn't stop! Ref: Ray Hostilers OS 46 fix, for lean mid range!)

So do we set main needle for wide open throttle only! (WOT) and adjust idle needle for just idle? Or do we need to compromise a little and have a richer idle to get mid range right??

We have a great KME dealer here in the OZ, due to the fact I got my first kme 60 that blew main bearing up on the third hover!!!!
Dealer (Extreme Heli's) here in Melbourne, sent me new bearings, and after I had replaced bearings and on this same motors third hover, it seized up!
I send it back, and Justin sent me new motor! So thank you Jerome for backing your dealers!!

So far Im on the third tank in my Extreme 50, and seem to have it working quite well! I'm a lot more in on my needles than yours or Justin's settings, But I seem to have very good pressure or low resistance fuel line system on this heli for some reason!
So Im down to 1.1 turns out on main and 0.3 to 0.4 out on idle needle, lots of smoke (20/20 cool power home brew) running 1750 to 1850 on head to run it in!
I'm lead to believe with all things been equal, that as a motor runs in, it will slowly gets richer! Would this be true for the KME as well?
Looking forward to getting back on the horse, as Ive been very quite with my flying of late!

Rolf

Rolf, We do have a fat carb in the Mid and Idle. So you can turn down the Idle needle/ Mixture without sacrificing the mid.

I personally think that and it does depend where you are flying. But the needle setting at 1.1 is to lean, you will get a little more punch if you have it set at 1.35 to 1.25 out and idel at .25 out.

After break in run the head speed up to 2050 you will be very impressed. What Pipe are you running. If you use the KME pipe make sure you use the Aluminum spacer that comes with the pipe. A lot of customers forget to use this but it of sets the pipe a little to help the tuning as well.

I also would try to open your pressure nipple on your PIPE to get more pressure in your tank this will also help with performance. (take the nipple off first so you dont get metal shaving in the pipe. It all gets sucked back in the engine when you start the engine).

Your crank case must have been one of the early models. But yes if anyone is having the problem we will take care of it. We want our customer service to be Bar None...

[Fang]

Thanks Jerome

So I can turn down the idle needle to get a smooth running motor at idle?
And adjust main needle to get good power at WOT? and mid range "should" look after it self! Correct?

I will reset needles closer to your recommended setting above, and see how it goes!
When first running yesterday, I didn't worry about how many turns out I was on main needle, as I was looking for a rich, clean running motor at my settings, Im very sure its still at a rich setting for my fuel and conditions and setup! But Im happy to reset them. And once I get a few more tanks though it, then I will start to run up head speed and set needles to get good smooth rich power! (Thing is, we should be able to run this motor rich, and still have better power than a 50 size motor!!!)

Also sorting out my first VBar as well on this heli!

Regards Rolf

[waxman]

I just got a KME 60 and a outrage 90 pipe and i have been reading up on the break in method etc but have noticed that with the needle settings it tells you to set the low needle to 3/4 after run in where as i see in a lot of posts that people seem to run them between 1/4 and 1/2 what is the best setting after run in.

I plan to run some home mixed fuel using klots 198 at around 22% and 30% nitro is this fuel mix ok or should i alter it more or less oil nitro etc(this mix worked well in my os 55). I can't buy any heli fuels locally so im forced to make my own.

Any advice would be helpful. Thanks