Warp 360 Maiden Report

[suthae]

In short, WOW!! This is really a VERY smooth heli And it flies very well

I took my time to build this heli, went through all the threads here learning the common mistakes the past builders did...

I managed to have a successful maiden with almost zero issue... except for my tail acting strange in first pack, 3GX instruction mentioned setting the Delay for tail as small heli (red)... the tail was better when I changed it to Large heli (Green).

But I don't really like the way 3GX flies, I have already placed an order for SK540 My ZYX performs better!

I just did some piros and flips, don't wanna push the heli yet till my BEC and SK540 arrives.. I don't even have confidence going inverted with the 3GX on... lol The heli flipped very tight and nice Went back with a smile

The heli flew so well that am afraid of flying it again... untill I get my SK540 and BEC.. The last thing I want is for this beautiful heli to go crashing due to electronics failure... Am going to learn to be patient!

My setup:
DS92A+ and DS95i
Koby 40, Stock motor, Turnigy 1.3 lipos
3gx

I got my kit with the old motor can, I knew that from the strange sound it makes during spool up... Also the motor comes down hot... much warmer than my 3s 450 pro... is that normal?
My esc was cool though
Does anyone know how I can get the replacement can for free?

One thing that is still bothering me is that, when I try rotating the main blades manually on bench it doesn't really feel as smooth as how my 450 pro used to feel like... is that normal? Am quite sure my main belts are not tight

[uiron]

had a 200+ flights with 3gx on this bird. as long as your bec is strong enough (3gx does not love voltage drops), it's fine with 3.0 firmware.
..but yeah, I'm already waiting for my SK540 as well

my scorpion gets somewhat hot as well, but like fresh-made-cup-of-tea hot, not burn-your-finger hot. was convinced it's completely fine, as I was also used to stone-cold 3s 450mx motor.

those turnigy lipos... I hope they're the 40c ones, otherwise you're flying on like 1/3rd of the power available. I'd consider better batteries anyway, it would be a shame to fly sk540+koby+mks combo with a second-grade power supply.

[suthae]

Lol.. Got ya.... I also ahve a pair of Gens Ace 1200 which doesn't CG well... I am still looking for some good lipos

Am on 3gx 4.0... I just find it a little strange compared to the other gyros I have worked with

How does your Main blade rotates manually by hand on bench... Mine is not feeling as smooth as my 450 pro

[uiron]

well if you mean like rotating whole head on the main shaft, then it's very smooth there. Blade itself in the grip.. it's pretty firm. I actually like Warp's grips better as those spacers do not allow much up/down action for the blade.

How does 1200 Gens don't COG..? I've got nose full of stuff (Gryphon Agena, Yge 60, separate receiver and 3gx), and it COG's fine with 1400 Gens - of course I move it all the way back in the tray.

[suthae]

Yeah... I meant rotating the whole head assembly on the heli by hand.... Mine is not as smooth as my 450 pro... by a very large difference.... cud it be my OWB?

The 1200 packs seem to make the heli tail heavy... I was planning on doing Gens Ace 1600mah..

Am just starting to learn 3D... just managed to do my first tic toc (More of a rainbow ) last week on my 450 Pro..

So I won;t really be using all the power soon, but it will be nice to have when i need them

[Luigi_tuga]

Hi!!
Glad you liked your WARP, it's a very rewarding build

Regarding to the head, it may be the OWB that being new is a bit tight. Mine was like that but it got better with flight time.
Or it could be a bit too much preloading on the main shaft bearings. I did it once or twice putting too much pressure on the colar when tightening it.

[suthae]

Thanks Luigi! I did check my main shaft bearing... They spin nice and free with the main shaft inserted without the main gear... but once I get the auto rotation hub in, it doesn't feel smooth anymore... It feels like trying to twist your leg in the mud, sorry I can't think of a better description.. lol

[Rockarruda]

how tight are your belts? I know you mention you don't think they are too tight, but how tight do you have them?

[suthae]

Originally Posted by Rockarruda

how tight are your belts? I know you mention you don't think they are too tight, but how tight do you have them?

Hey there, adjusted the main belt so that it just tight enough so that i can spin the main gear while holding the motor without any slipping... I still have a considerable amount of play in the belt.

On second thoughts, am thinking that the main belt tightness does not affect the free spead of the rotor head + main shaft assembly... as that doesn't rotate the main gear with it.

After my flights today, it feels much smoother, as mentioned earlier I think it just takes some time before the autorotation bearing settles in smooth

[HeliSmith]

That's the way with most new builds it takes time to break in

[suthae]

Originally Posted by HeliSmith

That's the way with most new builds it takes time to break in

Yeah... I almost bought a new autoratation hub yesterday... but I decided to be less paranoid, or else I would have an extra part that lying around.. Like how I made the mistake of getting an extra pair of compass tail blades

Too much horror stories on those, I heard even the cheap 450 tail blades last longer..

Sorry I have one more question, I don't have a tachometer, what sort of TX TH% would give me a 3000 HS on stock motor (Old Can) and stock pinion assembly?

Am not sure on the efficiency of this motor, hence am not too confident with relying on the online HS calculator tool

[Ah Clem]

If the autorotation clutch is stiff, you might take it apart, wash the grease out of it, and replace it with TriFlow liquid or ATF.

ATF seems to work the best for many. Grease is not a good idea.

[Mr-Mike]

Originally Posted by Ah Clem

If the autorotation clutch is stiff, you might take it apart, wash the grease out of it, and replace it with TriFlow liquid or ATF.

ATF seems to work the best for many. Grease is not a good idea.

+1 Great suggestion Clem - it does work!

[suthae]

Originally Posted by Mr-Mike

+1 Great suggestion Clem - it does work!

Hmm.. it does actually feel like it's stuck in grease... will have it taken apart today...

Thanks for the suggestion....

Does any one have the answer to my question on the THR % above?

[chrismechanic]

100% throttle is around 3000 rpm with standard gearing

[suthae]

Originally Posted by chrismechanic

100% throttle is around 3000 rpm with standard gearing

Wow!! with my 1320kv and 6s lipo.... I should be getting (1320 x 25.2v) 33,000 RPM on motor shaft... factoring gearing ratio of 8.33 in... I would get (33000 / 8.33) 3900 RPM at 100 % efficiency.

If I can only get 3000 HS at 100 % TH.... the motor appears to only have about 75% efficiency,,, isn't that quite low for an outrunner?

[cbmd]

3000 rpm at 100% sounds way too low, even as a ballpark figure. I measured 3275rpm at 82% throttle with a Scorpion HK-2520 (1360KV) on a YGE60 (gov-store learned at 4.0V/cell). I don't think the Compass motors and the Koby 40 are much different, efficieny-wise.

The gearing is 135T main on a 16T motor pinion (stock), so the ratio is actually 8.4375 – not that it changes the numbers significantly. For the tails it's 83T/17T = 4.8824, there is also a 19T tail pulley available.

[chrismechanic]

your probably right, im just going by my castle software.
im getting 2900 max gov with std gearing, so i guessed around 3000rpm at 100%.... sorry.
chris

[ScotY]

Originally Posted by suthae

Wow!! with my 1320kv and 6s lipo.... I should be getting (1320 x 25.2v) 33,000 RPM on motor shaft... factoring gearing ratio of 8.33 in... I would get (33000 / 8.33) 3900 RPM at 100 % efficiency.

If I can only get 3000 HS at 100 % TH.... the motor appears to only have about 75% efficiency,,, isn't that quite low for an outrunner?

You aren't talking about efficiency here. Anyway, you should probably use something like 3.3v/cell x 6 cells for your calculations. Under load, the battery voltage will drop from the nominal 4.2v/cell so you can't use 25.2v for your estimation.

[Bob O]

Originally Posted by suthae

Wow!! with my 1320kv and 6s lipo.... I should be getting (1320 x 25.2v) 33,000 RPM on motor shaft... factoring gearing ratio of 8.33 in... I would get (33000 / 8.33) 3900 RPM at 100 % efficiency.

If I can only get 3000 HS at 100 % TH.... the motor appears to only have about 75% efficiency,,, isn't that quite low for an outrunner?

Try the calculation again using a gear ratio of 8.43:1 for 16T pinion, or 7.94:1 for 17T pinion. Also, nominal voltage is considered 3.7V per cell, so 22.2V for a 6S pack.