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Old 06-09-2009, 07:05 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default JS TZ-V2 Frenzy, My first nitro build, pics as I go

I've had a few requests on my frenzy so I thought I'd start a thread and keep it going as I build it. Keep in mind this is my first nitro build and my first time doing this.
It will be a long process but hopefully we will get some good info going on this bird.

I started of by doing a quick preliminary build to check everything out, I'll go back over it later and fully tighten / loctite all parts

Packaging is ok, sub-assemblies are packaged individually.
Main body, Tail Boom, Tail box, Landing Gear, Fins, Clutch & Fan, Radio mounting equip.


First thing I noticed it the instructions are par at best from a beginners point of view, experienced pilots shouldn't have a problem. They start in order as if you were fully assembling the heli which is good for repairs, however screw sizes aren't exact and some info doesn't apply.

Included with my instructions was an additional sheet showing that the SE model (which I think is the new v2) doesn't have the twin pulley guide for the belt located in front of the tail boom mount, and it uses a two gear/tail drive gear vs the belt wrapping around the main shaft. This threw me off at first as in the repair manual it shows other wise so be sure to read all info that comes with it as if there are any updates or changes in production they may be supplemented until manuals are finalized.

First step for me was to inspect the main body and install the landing skids.
The skids had one antenna holder broken off of them but shouldn't be a problem


Here is where I first noticed the manual wasn't 100% it states for the bottom plate to use 4 m3x6, and 2 m3x8 bolts however in the sub-assembly package the bolts were all the same size, I went with it and everything seemed to fit / work
The longer bolts were supposed to be located in the front where the allen wrench is.






Next up was the tail boom / tail assembly, I checked the tail assembly and found there is what seems to be some binding in the tail, its coming from the pitch slider ball being shifted in the arm when at full deflection as seen in the photos.
I don't know if there is a fix for this or if others have seen this issue


Binding, ball is getting cocked in the eyelet at full deflection


Ok here


I then installed the tail box onto the boom, on one end of the boom there is a hole drilled throught it, I opted to mount this at the rear being as it has to be weaker at that point and there would be less leverage on it being at the rear


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Last edited by 99grandtouring; 06-10-2009 at 11:09 PM..
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Old 06-09-2009, 07:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Cool...Thanks for posting your progress with pictures! Like I said, I have to wait to open mine!

I'm not positive, but isn't the hole in the boom to pin the boom to the boom block???
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Old 06-09-2009, 07:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
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next in the instructions was to install the tail boom and I did only to find out later that it was very difficult to install the horizontal fin / brace mount onto the boom and had to remove it for installation
I advise placing the horizontal fin mount and pushrod guides on first then installing the boom.




I then went to install the main drive gear, on the V2 there is two main gears (similar to a trex450) the manual shows only one gear and the belt wrapping around this.
If you refer back to the add-on sheet provided it shows proper install however it doesn't show where the provided washer goes (pointing to it with hex wrench).
For this I follows the manual and installed it ontop of the main drive gear.
There was nothing installed between the two gears
The main gear was held to the mainshaft via "jesusbolt" setup






Not shown in the photo but there is a locking ring / collar that goes above the upper most main shaft bearing and locks in the main shaft from having any up and down play.

Lastly was to install the head assembly simply sliding on and installing the provided "jesus bolt" and the two locking hex bolts that help to clamp the head onto the main shaft.




Heres the initial assembly completed, it was a quick build to get a set on things, I'll go back through and tighten / loctite everything in prep for the next stage.



And a compare shot to my trex frame



If you have any suggestions, additions or changes please feel free to post.
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Old 06-09-2009, 07:28 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Japsican View Post
Cool...Thanks for posting your progress with pictures! Like I said, I have to wait to open mine!

I'm not positive, but isn't the hole in the boom to pin the boom to the boom block???
To be honest I'm not 100% for sure, the instructions do not show a pin in the tail boom they do show a slot in the tail boom that is supposed to go into the heli side however there was no slot on mine nor a key way in the heli.

After looking closer at the instructions they do show the end with the holes being in the tail box.
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Old 06-10-2009, 11:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I got a free chance tonight and took a closer look at the tail.
The binding I was feeling before is free'ing up, I think its just where the ball is riding in the arm.

However I did find something else that concerned me more, if you move the pitch slider in all the way to the tail one of the pitch arms and blade grips gets jammed and moves in towards the shaft locking the pitch slider!
It only happens with 1 blade/grip
I'm guessing this isn't normal?
The other one won't do this, you can manually make it do it but it has a little "pop" to it when you do it so I'm sure it wouldn't happen during flight, the other one will just fall into this position on its own, almost like the arm is to short?
What do you all think? Heres a pic..




Also on assembling the head the linkages are very tight, so much I'm afraid I'm going to break them trying to press them on, to make for sure I'm doing it right should the tz on the links face out/ away from the ball?

Lastly I've read up on issues with the one way bearing, does anyone have a pic of the old style / bad one ways?
My kit has the old canopy style mounts so I'm wondering if it has the old one way and old bearing / shaft for the tail pulley?
Thanks!
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Old 06-11-2009, 11:05 AM   #6 (permalink)
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you should've put the engine in and get it fitting right first before putting the bottom plate in

as for the tail shaft, yes it's too long, you have to set your gyro limit so it wont go to that area and bind up

as for links, my links have TZ facing out

as for the tail boom, it could go either way, but where the tail case goes on the tail boom, no matter how tight you make it it will still rotate, so you have to pin it, use a self tapping screw to pin it, drill a small pilot hole and tighten the screw right through the case into the boom

mine rotated about 30º on my maiden flight good thing i didn't even take off
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Old 06-11-2009, 09:34 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I emailed amainhobbies before I posted my question above.
Response was quick!
They stated that due to the centrifugal forces pulling out that it would never pop over like that in flight and should be ok.

Engine wasn't installed as I don't have it yet
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Old 06-14-2009, 12:05 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I had a chance to start checking all the nuts and bolts..

Here is some thing I've found.
1. Nothing in the tail or frame is loctited, dissasemble everything and apply loctite!
2. My tail drive pulley (that drives the belt) Is out of round and wobbles back and fourth.
3. The frame spacer that holds the screws for the tail boom supports wasn't threaded as deep as it should have been and when tightening it stripped the end of one screw.
4. Ball links are very very tight, I had to use a pair of regular pliers to squeeze them on and when I did I noticed it shaved a small thin hair like piece off of the links.
This is installed with tz on the links facing out, they are also kinda tight fitting on the balls.
I tried installing them in reverse with tz in, but they didn't want to go at all.
5. One tail blade has some slop in it, it appears that the main tail blade spindle might be machined slightly off, probably could be ground down some and take out the slop / tighten in on the bearings.

Next up is taking the head apart and checking / loctiting it...
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Old 06-14-2009, 02:51 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Good work. Keep it going.
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Old 06-15-2009, 08:14 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Default Install the links with the TZ towards the ball!

About the TZ links, I measured mine with a caliper and clearly the TZ side is the larger diameter opening. I have all my links installed with the TZ side on the ball.

TZ side is 4.4mm or 4.5mm
The dot side is a hair over 4mm

I guess it is possible that some of them were miss printed and that's why you guys put them on the other way. I don't know, but both my kits came with links that clearly had the TZ side bigger than the dot side.

Edit: Just got off the phone with Greggor at Amain Hobbies and he said that the links will work fine in either direction so don't get hung up about the direction of the links.
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Last edited by simusphere; 06-15-2009 at 04:22 PM.. Reason: Talked to Greggor at Amain
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Old 06-23-2009, 09:36 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Well, I found a problem with my Frenzy and I must say I'm a little aggrevated at Amainhobbies.

3 weeks ago I emaild them back (had emailed greggor before) about 2 problems I found
1. The gear that drives the tail belt is out of round by an amount I would think excessive
2. When tightening the bolt for the boom supports / frame spacer the right side threaded in easily at first and was not cross threaded, at about halfway in it started getting tight, 2 more turns and it was very tight so I backed it out and found the threads were getting stripped / rolled just on the end of the screw, when I looked inside the frame spacer it appears its not fully threaded.

I emailed them over 2 weeks ago and included a video of the wobble and a picture of the screw, I never heard back, so last week I re-emailed them, waited still nothing.
So the other day I used there live chat and spoke to sean told him what was going on, he said to re-email greggor, so I did (third time) still nothing...

I really hate calling but I guess its gonna have to come to that...?

I did manage to go through the head and loctite everything and loctited the bolts that hold the one way bearing / hub to the gear as stated before there is no loctite on anything I have found yet, if you get one you really need to disassemble it and loctite everything!

One question guys, the starter shaft / clutch bell is adjustable / slotted. Is this to adjust pinion mesh with the main gear and then you use the engine mounting hole to align the cluch with the bell or do you use this adjustment for clutch alignment?
Thanks!
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Old 06-23-2009, 11:55 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
One question guys, the starter shaft / clutch bell is adjustable / slotted. Is this to adjust pinion mesh with the main gear and then you use the engine mounting hole to align the cluch with the bell or do you use this adjustment for clutch alignment?
The bottom line is do whatever is necessary to get everything lined up right and get good gear mesh. If the gear mesh is too tight you may even have to adjust some of the start shaft holes with a file. Do whatever it takes. I had mine adjusted near perfect and forgot to loctite the bottom main shaft bearing block in place. The main gear got shreaded after two flights due to the bottom block falling off.
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Old 06-24-2009, 05:16 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Well guys I got an email from greggor today, all seems ok and replacements should be on the way so things are good.
Probably would have been better if i had called but I just prefer email, its less time consuming for me..
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Old 06-30-2009, 10:03 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Got the new tail drive pulley, haven't had a chance to install it yet but I did find something that needed attention.

The start shaft / clutch bell had alot of play in it, so I removed the assembly to inspect it, upon inspection I found that even with the starter socket tightened down and pressed against the bearing I had about 1/8" play back and forth/ side to side of the shaft.
I dissasembled it and the upper bearing in the bearing block fell out, the lower one was secure but the upper one was not. To fix this using bearing retaining compound (green loctite should do) I actually lightly applied it to the outer race and pressed it back in the bearing block, I also went ahead and retained the lower bearing that is in the clutch bell and once dryed I retained the shaft to the inner races, now there is no slop / movement.

This might account for why people are having thier E-clips come off and reccomending a C clip, maybe due to the play and vibration?
I've seen some posts saying the shaft is undersized as well.
I think I'm going to do this as well to the tail belt drive shaft / bearings just for insurance.
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Old 07-01-2009, 06:33 PM   #15 (permalink)
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hi 99, yep, i had a clip come off and lost the entire starter shaft and upper bearing in flight, landed safely and when I removed the bell, I found the clip just laying there on top of the clutch.....grrrrrr. You are right on with the fix, I installed a new upper and lower bearing. There was evidence of the lower bearing spinning in the block. I loctited both bearings in, installed the starter shaft with a 1mm shim in between the bell pinion gear and upper bearing to lower the bell a bit and get flush fit with clutch, then held it all together and pushed the starter hex down from top and loctited it. Aligned everything and tightened up the block and loctited. I have about 4 gallons of fuel through it now with no problems at all. Oh because this happened in flight, I did change the one way clutch bearing too, it was damaged. Being you are doing this during build your bearing should be fine. Good luck, and happy flying.
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Old 07-02-2009, 06:05 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Well I got the new belt drive pulley in from amainhobbies, something to note the old one that is severly out of round is black and was pinned in with a roll pin, the new one is grey and is secured with a pin and set screw type lock.

Also as with the start shaft bearings the shaft seems slightly undersized compared to the bearings in the belt drive blocks. I could actually spin the shaft by hand while holding the bearings blocks and see the shaft turning inside the inner races so more green loctite for these as well!
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Old 07-02-2009, 08:03 PM   #17 (permalink)
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well i just loctited that, i think they are coming out with a hardened starter shaft, mine is still holding great since I did what I said with the starter bearings and block. Flew it today, it still impresses me how well it handles. I took the flybar weights off and now just have the stubs paddles, now its even faster on the cyclics and still hovers rock steady....
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