Align T-Rex 500 Model

[Jetleaf]

Any way to make it sound more like the real thing?

[phrank]

It's all about compromises with the available sound library.
Realflight does not allow custom sound files.
You can easily choose the sound more appealing to you via the aircraft editor, go ahead and choose the one that sounds best to your ear, but you are limited in the number of choices.

Good Luck...

[Jetleaf]

Thanks man, I didn't know there were any options for sound other than on and off.

[Gernejr]

Thanks will have to try it.

Originally Posted by trexflyer02

As of yet, blades are pretty much the only thing you can't change the color of in RealFlight. You are limited to the graphical blade designs that come with the program by default.

However, there is a black blade with yellow tips (I think it's the MD500 scale blades), and the Align white CF blades.

[Gernejr]

MD500 are white and 381mm . oh well it's on ly a color .

[puma1824]

Anyone have or know how I can modify the settings to replicate a flybarless Trex 500? How about settings for the Vbar Ultra Mode?

[delgado]

Originally Posted by phrank

Thanks to our fellow Helifreaks who helped make this possible.
Finless, Fireup and Jason Chow's feedback was most helpful in getting the right feel for the bird.
We appreciate your collaboration.

Frank...

Thank you..

[bobyjimmie]

So I downloaded this model and have been flying it on the realflight. I am thinking of buying a 500 and am curious how close this is to the real deal. Is it really this zippy and responsive? I have only flown a lama v4 in real life and that is why I have gotten the realflight, to start practicing lots before buying the real deal.

I seem to fly fine, its the landings that need major help .

[Tom Owen]

how do i get it into my g4 folder?

[phrank]

Originally Posted by Tom Owen

how do i get it into my g4 folder?

Read Post #18

[BLUETHUNDER]

The T Rex 500 in expansion pack # 5 has no cooling hole in the lower front part of the canopy?
and the solid black windscreen is transparent in RF G4 expansion pack #5 unlike the solid
painted black fiberglass one on the real model??

[Felt]

Thanks for this model..I have enjoyed it with out having to buy pack 5..

[Atomsk]

I have enjoyed this model but it seems to be quite slow on the cyclic? I don't have a TREX 500 but is it like this in real life?

[ChrisH]

Originally Posted by Atomsk

I have enjoyed this model but it seems to be quite slow on the cyclic? I don't have a TREX 500 but is it like this in real life?

You can't match everbody's setup. If it feels slow to you, make sure that the dual rates are UP and you're in idle up 2, or just increase the cyclic pitch.

[Atomsk]

Originally Posted by trexflyer02

You can't match everbody's setup. If it feels slow to you, make sure that the dual rates are UP and you're in idle up 2, or just increase the cyclic pitch.

WOOPS! I had my dual rates channel reversed! I am so stupid

On the bright side the trex is much quicker now

[mu300pilot]

How do you get rid of the tail wag?

[ChrisH]

Upgrade to .036, it should fix your problems.

[skunkworx]

I'm running into the problem of thr cyclics being really slow too. I tried out the Protos and it seems to be a lot quicker. I have all the servo parameters set to .01 and it's still not enough! Is the Protos just that much better/faster in real life? I know they mentioned different setups, but I'm not sure how to change those parameters (eg-pinion, blade size, etc...). Is there a newer or more updated version that's quick and light on the cyclics? Even full stick deflections give really slow roll rates. Any way to up the speeds?

Another thing is the autorotations. They seem harder to do on the 500 than the 450. Is that true of real life? I've never flown a T500 myself so I can't judge, but the 450 seems pretty realistic. Any ideas?

[ChrisH]

Servo speed will not increase cyclic rate. You need to go into the Aircraft Editor into Main Rotor and adjust Cyclic Pitch and Cyclic Roll deflections. Adjust these to your likings. Remember, one model can't match everyone's setup...

When we made the 450, if we made it any harder to auto other flight parameters would suffer. On the 500 we were able to make it a bit harder than real life without other parts of the model being unrealistic. Being a bit harder in the sim may help you to do a better auto out at the field. That being said, if you want to make it a bit easier, go into Main Rotor again (make sure you have Advanced Parameters shown, it's up in the menu). Then adjust Parasitic Drag. Higher drag means less inertia and harder autos. Lower drag means more inertia and easier autos.

Hope this helps.

[skunkworx]

Will do buddy! Thanks for the advice. I'm really starting to like how hard it is to auto because now I'm getting decent at it. Just gotta work up the guts to try it again on the real thing.