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700 Class Electric Helicopters 700 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 05-21-2011, 10:41 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default It finally happened! :( Need some help.

Yes my fellow helifreakers.... had to do the walk of shame and everything.
This morning had "the case of the loctite". (seems like anyway).

I was just about to complete 83 flights without incident when I lost tail control. It wasn't anything spectacular and I actually landed softly, but the spinning of the blades was just too much.

Before I show pics. It seems like the only thing worth mentioning for HELP is the head button was gone. The female threads inside the main rotor housing (head block) sheared.

I'm picky about things and like to put everything 100% back to normal. So, is there anything I can do to save the existing head block? I guess I can fly it without a head button, but I prefer to put it back without having to get a new head block JUST to have the head button.

Here are the pic.




Notice the slide shaft NOT attached to the "T" type arm. Those threads are squeaky clean. Mea Culpa.

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Old 05-21-2011, 10:55 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Do not put the stopper back on. Mine came off in flight and ruined a set of blades. Either buy a new head block or just dont use it.
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Old 05-21-2011, 11:01 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Use red loctite when you reassemble the tail pitch slider. Same thing happened to me.

Did you hit hold right away and try to auto? Usually the spinning stops and you can auto in safely in cases like this.
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Old 05-21-2011, 11:07 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by OnTheSnap View Post
Use red loctite when you reassemble the tail pitch slider. Same thing happened to me.

Did you hit hold right away and try to auto? Usually the spinning stops and you can auto in safely in cases like this.
Yeah. I hit Throttle Hold right away and I did try to auto. Notice the landing gear is intact and no stripped gears or torque tube gears.
The heli was far way from me plus spinning as I had no tail control. It was when it landed where it tipped over and main blades hit the boom..etc.
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Old 05-21-2011, 11:31 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Sorry for your loss.

I personally don't like the way the head button looks on the 700 so I leave it off and go neg pitch after landing to slow down the head. By the time I've walked up to the heli, the blades are pretty much slowed down to nothing.

Beside that, there weren't always head buttons.
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Old 05-21-2011, 05:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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take off the head button, your luck you have a fb or else you will still need a new head so you could get your blade pitch right.
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Old 05-21-2011, 06:01 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tekparasite View Post
Yes my fellow helifreakers.... had to do the walk of shame and everything.
This morning had "the case of the loctite". (seems like anyway).

I was just about to complete 83 flights without incident when I lost tail control. It wasn't anything spectacular and I actually landed softly, but the spinning of the blades was just too much.

Before I show pics. It seems like the only thing worth mentioning for HELP is the head button was gone. The female threads inside the main rotor housing (head block) sheared.

I'm picky about things and like to put everything 100% back to normal. So, is there anything I can do to save the existing head block? I guess I can fly it without a head button, but I prefer to put it back without having to get a new head block JUST to have the head button.




Notice the slide shaft NOT attached to the "T" type arm. Those threads are squeaky clean. Mea Culpa.




That sucks, looks like you saved the most important parts, how did you loose tail control?
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Old 05-22-2011, 03:57 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Sorry to hear about your loss, Julio. Looks like you did a pretty good job of salvaging it though.

Aram
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Old 05-23-2011, 06:56 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I had my head stopper pull out also in my last "incident". I keep a set of these around for 3mm and 4mm.

http://www.amazon.com/50-Perma-Coil-.../dp/B000WGFBJC

They've saved me a good bit of money repairing some expensive parts on my heli's with stripped out holes. For my head button I just removed everything including those two plastic sleeves in the head. The kit tells you what size drill bit to use and it's a US size. Drill the hole, run the tap in and install the thread insert with red locktite. You do need to be careful not to put the insert in too far. You just want it so the first thread is just below the surface of the head. I've never had another problem with the threads I've repaired. They are especially nice for getting a better grip when a plastic or G10 part gets stripped out. I hope this helps.

Jeff
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Old 05-23-2011, 07:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Sorry about your loss.

My first crash with my 700 ripped the head button out. I since replaced the head block, but definitely didn't put the button back on. I need to make sure those threads stay intact in case I need the leveler tool again.

Good luck with the rebuild.
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Old 05-28-2011, 12:51 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Hi there,
The same exact thing happened to me on my second test flight...I managed to land it safely although it was very scary because the heli was about 5 meters away from me..

About the head button; try to use a longer screw - i had the same problem and it solved it, otherwise you can thread the hole just a little bigher and use a shim inside so you can use the same diameter screw again.
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Old 05-29-2011, 08:48 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff396 View Post
I had my head stopper pull out also in my last "incident". I keep a set of these around for 3mm and 4mm.

http://www.amazon.com/50-Perma-Coil-.../dp/B000WGFBJC

They've saved me a good bit of money repairing some expensive parts on my heli's with stripped out holes. For my head button I just removed everything including those two plastic sleeves in the head. The kit tells you what size drill bit to use and it's a US size. Drill the hole, run the tap in and install the thread insert with red locktite. You do need to be careful not to put the insert in too far. You just want it so the first thread is just below the surface of the head. I've never had another problem with the threads I've repaired. They are especially nice for getting a better grip when a plastic or G10 part gets stripped out. I hope this helps.

Jeff
Thanks a lot for this reference Jeff... and thanks everyone for your comments!
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Old 05-29-2011, 09:11 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tekparasite View Post
Thanks a lot for this reference Jeff... and thanks everyone for your comments!
Any preference for a Tap-wrench?
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