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Warp 360 Compass Warp 360 Model Helicopter Discussion


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Old 12-15-2012, 09:52 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I think the motor sound might be more serious, mine sheared off at the circlip, and actualy didn't sound as loud as some I've heard.I need a new motor as well as the other parts that where defective.
Still haven't heard from Experience Rc.
Steve

Steve, contact Mike at Nankin and he will get you taken care of.
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Old 12-15-2012, 10:32 AM   #22 (permalink)
 

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Hoping Mike has read this and is on it.
Steve
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Old 12-15-2012, 12:02 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I bought my kit from Experience Rc, I've tryed three different times to contact them with my list of parts to replace.Haven't heard back from them yet, starting to get a little concerned.
Steve
I've been trying to get in touch with Experience RC for a few days now as well about order issues not related to the Warp (I got mine from Nankin) and have had no luck. I'm guessing they are getting caught up from being at the Orlando funfly. At least I hope that is all it is. They seemed like a great bunch of folks when I met them at the funfly.
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Old 12-15-2012, 12:16 PM   #24 (permalink)
 

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My first email to them was last Saturday, they must be having alot of fun!
Steve
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Old 12-15-2012, 12:54 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Steve,

ExperienceRC does not generally reply to E-mails. You should call them. But, in all reality, they're likely to refer you to Mike. So, just call Mike.

Scott
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Old 12-16-2012, 05:22 PM   #26 (permalink)
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My first email to them was last Saturday, they must be having alot of fun!
Steve
They are at a Fun Fly in Tennessee this weekend. Things will return to normal tomorrow.
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Old 12-16-2012, 08:41 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Has anyone else had an issue with the "2.5mm" hex nuts included with the swash driver in step 3? One of mine is a little too big and just barely engages the threads. The other one is nowhere near big enough and has no hope of threading on. Seems to be some oddball size as it is too small for the 2.5mm screw and too large for a 2mm one.

On the bright side the ball links went on without cracking. I trimmed off that excess plastic on the end that kalleh mentioned in another post and they threaded on very smoothly. However they were the links labeled '4' like gawl noticed so there must be something to that. My build is going slowly, but so far the only issues I've ran into is the play in the rotor hub (side-to-side and rotational (rotational due to the hole in the main shaft being a little too big)) and now this hex screw issue.
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:32 AM   #28 (permalink)
 

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I've tried here and sent pm messages also but no reply yet from Nankin?Must be busy.
Steve
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:57 AM   #29 (permalink)
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i am sorry i didnt respond quick enough, i took the weekend off to spend with my wife and kids. the pm has been responded to and your new motor will be shipped out today and the other things you requested were shipped last week

Mike
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Old 12-17-2012, 10:04 AM   #30 (permalink)
 

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Sorry Mike for being impatience!Glad you got some personal time.
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Merry Christmas
Steve
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Old 12-17-2012, 06:47 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Talk about outstanding customer support! I am suitably impressed!
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:19 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Received the tensioner mount last week and the main rotor hub today

A big thank you to Mike at Nankin

Awesome customer service!
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:39 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Got my new rotor hub from Mike today as well. Fit is absolutely 100% rigid. Great customer service indeed!
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Old 12-22-2012, 12:42 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Hi guys,

Does anyone know when spare parts will be readily available? I had my second day of flying the warp and was absolutely loving it, thing flys amazing! but was flying with out the canopy and completely lost orientation, and dirt napped it. This thing is a beast! The only thing that broke was 1 main blade and a servo, but while replacing a servo I snapped 3 of the upper bearing block screws deep inside (to much loctite). So just wandering when the upper bearing block will be in stock?

Thanks for your help
Alex
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Old 12-22-2012, 12:55 PM   #35 (permalink)
 

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Did you clean the screws with alcohol before installing with locktite?Just curious as I just wiped mine first and thenput locktite and later removed all to change to ss screws and all where secure but still came out easy.
Steve
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Old 12-25-2012, 01:57 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Got my replacement main hub and mainshaft from Mike at Nankin. Thanks, Mike...awesome customer service!
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Old 12-25-2012, 02:06 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Suggestions for improvement...

1. Auto hub and pulley assembly - my main pulley is visibly warped, tail drive pulley, can't tell yet until I find my high point balancer. Need better molded parts

2. Belt tensioner assembly - the simplest solution to this would be to pre-install a thicker washer between the 2 flanged bearings on the tail tensioner pulleys. It is difficult to get the torque just right on the bolts to secure these pulleys without ending up with notchy, draggy bearings or too loose and sloppy. If the washer between the bearings were a hair thicker, you could torque the bolt down a little and not have to rely solely on loctite. The main belt tensioner pulley have the proper length spacer in there and does not have this problem. My bearing block has, like others have reported, somewhat loose threads for the M3 bolts.
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:02 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Suggestions for improvement...

1. Auto hub and pulley assembly - my main pulley is visibly warped, tail drive pulley, can't tell yet until I find my high point balancer. Need better molded parts

2. Belt tensioner assembly - the simplest solution to this would be to pre-install a thicker washer between the 2 flanged bearings on the tail tensioner pulleys. It is difficult to get the torque just right on the bolts to secure these pulleys without ending up with notchy, draggy bearings or too loose and sloppy. If the washer between the bearings were a hair thicker, you could torque the bolt down a little and not have to rely solely on loctite. The main belt tensioner pulley have the proper length spacer in there and does not have this problem. My bearing block has, like others have reported, somewhat loose threads for the M3 bolts.
Same issue here with the tail tensioner bolt fitting loose in the threads. If I tighten it at all the bearings get draggy/notchy. When I loosen it to get the pulley turning smoothly then just barely touching the pulley causes the screw to come loose. Looks like it will need some red loctite or a longer bolt and nut as I see a couple others doing doing to hold it securely.
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Old 12-25-2012, 11:11 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Same issue here with the tail tensioner bolt fitting loose in the threads. If I tighten it at all the bearings get draggy/notchy. When I loosen it to get the pulley turning smoothly then just barely touching the pulley causes the screw to come loose. Looks like it will need some red loctite or a longer bolt and nut as I see a couple others doing doing to hold it securely.
Yes, that sounds exactly what I'm seeing with the tail pulleys. If they simply used a slightly thicker washer between the bearings, you could put a little torque to the bolt and it would snug up without binding the bearings. There is nothing really wrong with the way the pulley mounting system is designed, there's simply not enough spacer material (i.e. shim washers) between the bearings. If using loctite, I would probably lean towards the sleeve retaining type which is usually green, not the light hold wicking type. In any case, relying on loctite for that, based on how loose the threads feel, is not something I want to do. Also, when tightening the bolt, it's like 10 degrees of rotation between too loose and notchy. Not good. A nut on a slightly longer bolt would work, although fiddly. I am far too lazy to be doing that though.
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Old 12-26-2012, 06:14 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Just ad a little extra loctite and let the loctite donuts job. Just logged flight 130 on mine and it's still going strong with no signs of any issues.
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