Trex 600N with OS 50 Hyper sounds pingy now not nice idle after +-4 gallons

[rcmarty]

when i had a few gallons to go and i'd given up i did this :

- run engine dry at end of day
- take backplate off engine
- close carb
- put some marvel mytery oil in with some air tool oil (lucas). roll engine over to work in
- store upside down with backplate off (any foul air is free to leave)
- roll engile over every few days to redistribute oil

A bit of a had start but worked well for the last bit.
Big song and dance i know , but i didn't want to do anything to my ys91 in my 700.

You might be able to ask at the store if he can get in another brand. I know cp is very popular ans almost a household name , so it's a safe buy for the LHS. I get in on the bulk fuel buy in the spring. A few cases will last a while on a 50. So if he brings in a few cases for you and you take them , it's a guarenteed sale and he won't be sitting on them.

Hope this helps out.

Martin

[v58fuy]

Some people will have bearing problems, some won't - this is a mechanical device with significant user adjustment facility, meaning no two engines will be run the same.

Some of the things that I have done over the years to try and get the best out of Hypers:

1) Never run dry at the end of a day - all good fuels have a rust inhibitor in them.

2) Close the throttle barrel fully, plug the exhaust and clamp off the fuel line at the end of flying.

3) Store the heli in a warm dry place, not a cold and damp place which will promote condensation.

4) Ignore the backplate touch test if the weather is colder.

5) Read the OS manual, and start tuning the LOW needle first for good throttling in the hover.

6) Tune the high needle for the best stall turn climb at full throttle - ALWAYS go back and check the LOW after adjusting the high.

7) Don't over pitch the heli, then continue to lean the high needle because the heli bogs in climbouts.

8) A heli that has a lean high speed needle and overly rich idle, will produce a lot of smoke in a hover and residue.

9) Recognise that different exhausts have differing back pressure designs, and no 'recommended' needle setting will be correct.

10) Always use good quality fuel that hasn't been lying around for a long time - store fuel in cool dry place.

11) Hot weather will produce less power than cold weather - live with it, don't keep leaning trying to get the same zip you had in cold weather.

Just my two cents,

David

[flyinfool]

All good points except #11.

I think you meant;

11) Warm or hot weather will produce less power than cool or cold weather - live with it, don't keep leaning trying to get the same zip you had in cold weather.

And I would add;
12) At the end of the day, leave the fuel tanks full, to eliminate the effects of exhaust residue on the fuel lines. Fuel does not deteriorate the fuel lines, Exhaust residue does.

[v58fuy]

Jeff,

Sorry for my mistake in 11) have corrected it, at the end of the day just trying help some folks.

David

[Ah Clem]

"12) At the end of the day, leave the fuel tanks full, to eliminate the effects of exhaust residue on the fuel lines. Fuel does not deteriorate the fuel lines, Exhaust residue does."

I would modify this, as raw fuel will, eventually destroy the fuel lines:

12) Fill the tank after the last flight, then drain it. Filling the tank will purge the corrosive exhaust fumes.

[flyinfool]

Originally Posted by Ah Clem

I would modify this, as raw fuel will, eventually destroy the fuel lines:

I have to disagree.
The fuel line that runs to the bottom of my fuel jug has been soaking in 30% heli fuel for over 10 years now and is just as good as new. All of the plumbing in my flight box is over 10 years old and has been in constant contact with fuel and shows no ill effects.

The idea that fuel destroys fuel lines is a popular myth. Most likely due to the fact that the first line to fail is the clunk line in the fuel tank. The failure of the clunk line is due to the exhaust residue, not the fuel. My clunk line is over 5 years old now, and always soaking in fuel.