Trex 700 frame kit for conversion Help!!!

[neale]

Hi guys, I am about to buy a conversion kit for a trex 700 to gasser. What I would like to know is,,has Align changed the trex over the years that may cause a problem? My trex 700 kit thats on the shelf has been there for around four years Any need for concern??
Neal

[Rahulgaba]

The V2 and the DFC are different I main bearing blocks (frame spacing ) , tail box and tail boom length. Ofcourse the head is different and as the frame spacing is different , the things pertaining to the A arm (like the interconnect rod .. Are different.

But when you get a conversion for example a helibug: he does a great job of Listing donor parts.

Is yours a V2 FBL? Or a fly barred bird .. Check how much in common does your bird have with a V2 fly barless. If it does. You are set.

Some conversion call for a DFCmain bearing block set. But the conversion creator will list that as parts required .. hope it helps

[LoveToFly1]

they have changed that heli probably 8 times in the last 4 years man. honestly seems like they change things by the day....main shaft lengths change, heads change, bearing blocks change, frame spacing changes, booms change.....the list goes on....

[jharkin]

This is driving me nuts as well.

On the heads as best I can tell there are at least 4:

• The original "3G" fbl head with separate swash driver
• The V2 head with integrated swash drivers
• the DFC head
• and now there is a new "700FL" conversion head to go back to a swash driver design. This one is lower profile than the old 3G and v2 and it has turnbuckle grip links and ball links with a red stripe

There are different length main shafts to go with each one.


The main grips also where changed, the newer design has replaceable arms. Some people say to chuck the weak grip bolts for Lynx.


The DFC has a different frame spacing from the old versions, which means different bearing blocks, spacers, tail boom mount box. I think the swash is different as well.


There was an early design of the tail gearbox with white gears and a tail output shaft that had a reduced diameter where the hub attaches. Supposedly the white gears strip and the shaft can break. You want to get all the black gears, but this also means a new hub for the tail grips.


Along they way they also redesigned the pitch slider from a cheap plastic arm to a full yoke aluminum rig like the KDE setup.


Speaking of the tail grips, at least 3 revisions there as well. first they where plastic, and then there was an aluminum version but it did have dual radial bearings and now there is a new aluminum version with thrust and dual radial bearings.


Same as the white and black tail gears there are white and black auto gears. The black are newer and stronger.


There are also different main gears. the early one was MOD 0.7 164T, then later they switched to MOD 1.0 which came in a few different variations, 115T straight, 112T slant, etc.

And differnet booms. The early version use a 785mm long boom (actual boom length, not blade length). The DFC boom is 800mm. there are different TT and tail pushrod part numbers to go with the different booms.






Basically, when you build a conversion you have to become a T-Rex history professor.

[rhodesengr]

Looks like the PUH conversion goes with the V2 version. One of the big differences is the change to Mod 1 gears and black gear material. If you get the right parts, they will fit in the older frames. I upgraded the autogear and both ends of the torque tube gears in mine. This upgrade also fixes the notorious "tail shaft step-down issue". The black gears squeaked a little at first but stopped after a few flights. You can upgrade the main gear to Mod helical as well (according to HB) but I have not done that.

[neale]

rhodesengr thanks for that, I will go and order
Neal

[neale]

Hi Looks to me like I have the first version of the 700, 164 main gear and all! I actually have two, one already as a nitro, and the other an unbuilt kit that was waiting for a gasser kit, probably been cheaper to buy the gasser kit and then buy the parts I needed!! Anyway I bought the helibug kit for the PUH motor, it has been sugested to go with the standard FB head till all the bugs are sorted and the motor has been run in, and I can see the point. So I shall wait for the kit to arrive and go from there, tracking says they left Japan yesterday, as that is one of the transfer points on its way to OZ!!
Neal

[neale]

HI all. The frames for the PUH 700 trex arrived in the mail to-day, bl%&dy quick, I wont be making an immediate start on this, after Christmas all will happen! Family Christmas is at our home this year, so much to do as well as work/....and I am waiting on an afterrmarket screw set for the frames,I too have fad a gut-full of the standard items!! On top of that I have not decided on servo's yet, I am doing the build with standard head, then upgrade to FBL once heli sorted, ssoooo I am looking for servo's that are quick enought to run with FBL as my understanding is they need to be quicker than standard, if anyone would like to suggest what to go with, feel free!
Neal

[kev20009]

Hi neale, on my 700 I'm using align 610 cyclic and 650 tail, with fbl head, but if you want to do away with the regulater, you could go futaba hv , the 610 is plenty fast for what I do,

Kev

[neale]

Thanks Kev, wow that is way quick enough for me, and I am sure faster than what I have on my trex 700 nitro, Ishall have a read around on them, but quite happy to go the Align route.
Neal

[jharkin]

Im using BLS451s for cyclic with no issues and they are slower than the DS610s (.10s @ 6v).

But also I'm a sport flier, no smack 3D here.

[neale]

Hi Guys I am just doing a bit of a dry fit of parts to helibug frames. And find all the odds and ends for it as I have moved hause and set up a new hobby room and some parts have become seperated, ao going thru all to find, so far so good jusst the start shaft that is hiding so far!! Any way I have (hopefully) downloaded some pics, The pics are of the standard trex 700 clutch bell with Lynx clutch, (which fits in bell perfectly) and also some fics of another clutch bell, that I cant remember if it came with the G26 from Hanson or if I had sourced else where, vcan anyone ID? I would love to use the uuidentified clutch and bell, but as you can see it stands taller and as such is not going to fit in the frames, or am I missing something?
Neal

Edit,, As per clutch set-up, The alternative clutch set-up will NOT fit, however I would like to know what it is designed for!!
Neal

[neale]

Hi again, I have had a chance to start getting sorted with the build today, and have a couple of question, and a couple of coments. First off, I am using the BH Hanson G270 PUH, pro plus, that I bought of Al about 5 years ago I emailed him the other day to ask about the ezy pull starter, he realized I did not have the spacer, and has put it in the mail for me and would not accept payment for item or postage, now that is service, so thanks Al. My question is on the puh, it was suplied with a metal plate that bolts to the top of motor (under fan) should I bolt the plate to motor or disregard?? I hope some one knows that one, and I see that there are two magnets fitted to the fan suplied by helibug, I assume they are to be used with a gov?? if so does the aforementioned plate interfere with the gov, or is there another/ better way for this to be done. As mentioned I have had the trex 700 sitting in the workshop for a long time, and as such I have pinched a couple of bits here and there for my 700 nitro! and as such I am doing a full dummy build to see what parts are missing. Also I ordered some aftermarket bolts ane the washer thingies for the frames, the original are shite as we all know! I only ordered 20 so I have just ordered more as 20 not enough! also I will replace them all on the 700 nitro. I will run flybar head for now, until I get the heli sorted and then go FBL, So I will go for some good servos but still have not decided on which yet. Not upgrading gears at this point, I hope they hold up till I swap out to FBL. Anyway if some one can advise on the couple of questions I have that would really help me along. Another thing is the elevator control rod bearings that helibug are a Very sloppy fit, also they are thinner and this leaves sideways play, has any one dealt with this
Neal
PS I found I had bought a century clutch and bell, if you can use it, it will be going for postage