2nd cutout w/ crash with Jive 120 and Scorpion 4525-520 LE

[Matt Nasca]

Mine isn't going into failsafe, I'm running a receiver pack. I get 8 blinks of the Jive, which indicates extreme overcurrent.

[Mystic3D]

Originally Posted by RadDuke

red, yellow and black I get nothing from the wire to the motor threads (when it screws to the plate.

Wires together:
red/yellow - 0
yellow/black - 0
red/black- 0

I get nothing on the multimeter for Ohms at all.

R/Y/B to Case - Nothing no reading is good, means the winding is not shorted to the case. So Ok

Wires Together:
R/Y - Should read Zero on a common multimeter
Y/B - "
R/B= "

You should get something between wires together, zero
Same reading you should get when you touch he 2 Multimeter wires together.

[Mystic3D]

Originally Posted by RadDuke

Mine isn't going into failsafe, I'm running a receiver pack. I get 8 blinks of the Jive, which indicates extreme overcurrent.

Rad,

You are just pulling too much from the Jive 120HV. It's not like it's impossible to overamp a Jive.

[Matt Nasca]

Originally Posted by In_to_the_Mystic_2003

Rad,

You are just pulling too much from the Jive 120HV. It's not like it's impossible to overamp a Jive.

I know... I just really wanted to love that motor, it was awesome while it lasted!

Thank for your help!

[Mystic3D]

Originally Posted by RadDuke

I know... I just really wanted to love that motor, it was awesome while it lasted!

Thank for your help!

Are you running CC 5.5mm bullets on that motor?

[dl7uae]

Um, I'm not sure what you mean by that.

Oops. I meant: Pull on the 5 thick wires of the ESC to check if they are broken, not visible under the silicon insulation. I know about two cases in which that happened (battery side). The substantially rised resistance of a lead caused strange cutoffs.

[dl7uae]

..

[jhheli]

Originally Posted by dl7uae

..

Did you discover this, I didn't now that was a short, I had to blow it up.

[dl7uae]

Did you discover this, I didn't now that was a short, I had to blow it up.

This is (was) a JIVE 80HV of a German user.

I only wanted to show for RadDuke what I meant by: Check the leads of your JIVE, they may be partly broken under the insulation.

In the JLog forum we puzzled a while over the logs of this JIVE, and then that was the cause. --> An artificial series resistor.

[Mystic3D]

Not a short in the wire but as pointed out broken wire(higher resistance) would cause the ESC to cut out.


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[Matt Nasca]

Very interesting!! I will examine mine to see if something like that is present. I'm also going to reinstall a known working motor and see if it cuts out as well.

Thank you very much for all of your help!!

[Magneto]

Kontronic must solder the lead inside the case there or crimp it these pics are my new jive and now im kinda conserned I havent had any cut outs or anything it came like this out of the box and I inspected it and figured this is the result of attaching at the factory I think ill send these photos to K and see what they have to say.

[Big Fil]

I inquired about the kink in the wire coming out of the Jives with Kontronik some time back. I was told that this was a crimp and normal.

[dl7uae]

It may be normal.. because of the silicon insulation.

On the other hand: It is also normal that the thick cord directly behind the solder joint is a little stiffer. Some solder always creeps between the wires, they "bonded". The maximum allowable bending radius is limited at this point.

What you have there in the photos, Magneto, are pressure points by clamping during manual soldering. Not to worry.

[Matt Nasca]

I checked mine and the wires feel secure and there is no extra movement.

After some communication with others using this ESC with high power motors and their own experience with it cutting out, I've come to the conclusion that the Jive 120 can not handle the extreme amp spikes (swings) (with its internal protection).

It is a good and viable choice for an ESC with normal power systems but those that wish to push the power envelope and fly hard, need a larger esc.

[dl7uae]

We need the blink code.

I could bet it is 8x.

Although this means that the hardware overcurrent trigger came, the cause is a commutation failure. KSA is needed in any case. The 120 can handle 250 amps and more.

[Matt Nasca]

Originally Posted by dl7uae

We need the blink code.

I could bet it is 8x.

Although this means that the hardware overcurrent trigger came, the cause is a commutation failure. KSA is needed in any case. The 120 can handle 250 amps and more.

Oh it blinks 8 times, every single time it cuts off. It's the sudden massive amp spikes or micro bursts (I've heard can be up to 400A) that seem to be the trigger.

If you are sport flying or applying the collective smooth it works but those quick stabs on a high headspeed like 2340 and +-13.5 collective shuts it down every single time.

[Mystic3D]

Originally Posted by RadDuke

Oh it blinks 8 times, every single time it cuts off. It's the sudden massive amp spikes or micro bursts (I've heard can be up to 400A) that seem to be the trigger.

If you are sport flying or applying the collective smooth it works but those quick stabs on a high headspeed like 2340 and +-13.5 collective shuts it down every single time.

2340 and 13.5 deg. You are a sick man, but I really like your flying. Not many options for a big bird with a 45XX motor,

I just picked up a YGE 160HV that is supposed to have a built in phase sensor for VBar Gov. It "should" repeat "should" handle the Xera 4530, but just received so no conclusions yet. I decided to keep my Jive 120HV and put it in the Logo 500SE until I see if YGE is really that good.

[Matt Nasca]

Originally Posted by In_to_the_Mystic_2003

2340 and 13.5 deg. You are a sick man, but I really like your flying. Not many options for a big bird with a 45XX motor,

I just picked up a YGE 160HV that is supposed to have a built in phase sensor for VBar Gov. It "should" repeat "should" handle the Xera 4530, but just received so no conclusions yet. I decided to keep my Jive 120HV and put it in the Logo 500SE until I see if YGE is really that good.

Thanks! We'll, I'd prefer a little lower HS but with the 520KV motor, there's little options for gearing lower and keeping in the 70-80% gov range.

I envy you and your YGE160! Let me know how it works, that actually came recommended to use with the 4525! Mikado is supposed to have a version covered with heatsinks for the XXtreme in the future.

[Mystic3D]

Originally Posted by RadDuke

Thanks! We'll, I'd prefer a little lower HS but with the 520KV motor, there's little options for gearing lower and keeping in the 70-80% gov range.

I envy you and your YGE160! Let me know how it works, that actually came recommended to use with the 4525! Mikado is supposed to have a version covered with heatsinks for the XXtreme in the future.

I think dl7uae might chime in here. Pretty much everything we have heard in he past was the sweet spot on the Jive was 80%, he is saying 60% is the sweet spot.

So if you lowered it down to say 2200 would it still cut out??