Zenoah 20cc on G20

[TheFriendsOfMrGyro]

Hi,

I have acquired a G20 kit some time ago and now I am ready to start the assembly.
One immediate decision I am facing is regarding the engine which came with the propeller hub (hence removing the hub will be a part of my build process).
I prefer to make sure that the engine runs before I put it in the heli as the ignition timing issue I read about worries me. If I take the prop hub out then trying the engine on a test stand is pretty much out of the question.
Is there a way for me to verify that my engine is assembled properly as fas as the ignition timing issue is concerned?
How did you approach this during your builds? Any pointers on building a test stand and attaching the Zen 20 to it?
Obviously building a test stand is another time consumer. How involved would it be for me to deal with the timing issue once the engine is in the heli and I discover that I indeed happen to have it?

Also I was planning on using 2 Castle BECs: One @ 4.8V for ignition and another @6.0V for rcv and servos, both using the same 2s LiPo, any comments?
Thanks

[strat1960s]

On timing and tuning the motor: I did not mount mine to a test stand to break the motor in. I installed the motor and went with it. I used canned ether to get the motor started the first couple of flights. The motor timing wasn't an issue with me it was carb tuning. I've never tuned a carb before. RM3 on Run Ryder really knows his gassers. He would be worth looking up for advice.

On the power supply: I am using two packs, but probably could get by on one pack. I am using a Fromeco Arizona regulator. It allows you to adjust the output voltage to the RX. Take a look at it and see if it will work for what you want to do instead of multiple BECs.
http://www.rcheliworld.com.au/index....roduct_id=1961

I had a couple small issues while building, but if you contact Century right away, they usually take care of you within a couple of days. Some people went straight to the forums and started bashing Century and still expected Century to send them free parts. I never had to pay for shipping or parts when there was a flaw or damaged parts. That because I never bashed Century on the forums.
It's a good kit and fun to fly once you are set up.
Are you going flybarred or FBL?

Ted

[Dennis P]

There should be a piece of paper (directions) included with the kit explaining how to make sure the timing is correct will assembling the fan onto the motor. If not let me know and I can probably find one here and email it to you.

[TheFriendsOfMrGyro]

Ted & Dennis,

Many thanks.
Attached is the info sheet I have (came attached to the lock nut), is this the one you are referring to?
Fromeco Arizona: While a single component solution has its advantages, it outputs a minimum of 4.9Volts. The Zenoah manual is so specific about the 4.8V for ignition, I don't dare to think of anything above (kinda like the tags on a pillow-don't you dare to remove this tag type of thing).

I found this thing for removing the prop hub:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ar_Puller.html
45mm reach covers the length of the hub. I was thinking I would cut the shaft (with what exactly?) then use this. At $3.99, if it works only once I would be happy! Don't particularly cherish the idea of using a hammer on the engine as the Radikal manual suggests.

[Dennis P]

I ran my first 20EI engine with the stock Zenoah ignition on 4.8V 4 cell nicads which when fully charged are 5.4 volts. I later ran it on a one cell 2000mah lipo which fully charged is 4.2 volts and that worked very well and was light. As for the hammer thing to remove the taper fit prop driver it is not a big deal ,it just pops off . As for the timing paper it was with the earlier G20 kits and was in the manual as a added sheet. It showed the relation of the magnet to the keyway slot in the hub from what I can remember. I will see if I can find one around here.

[strat1960s]

I don't recall needing a hammer to remove the prop hub. I do know that by placing things in the freezer for a few minutes causes metal shrink up a little bit. I believe I used a bearing puller to remove the prop hub.

Ted

[Dennis P]

You just double nut the prop shaft and unthread it until it is tight on the prop hub. Then just take a hammer and tap the prop shaft with holding the prop hub in your hand with the motor slightly off the work surface and the prop hub will pop off the taper. It is not a wind up and drill it type thing. If you want to get the prop hub off without taping it ,heat the aluminum hub quickly and the alum will expand and fall off the steel crank without the tap.

[TheFriendsOfMrGyro]

Thanks everyone for their inputs.
I must say, Century's manual is far superior to the ones I am used to. Not only are the drawings very detailed, the pdf version is actually searchable for text.
The information I have regarding the iginition timing says, while the key on hub at 12 o'clock, magnet for iginition should be at 10 o'clock and describes how to find the correct magnet by waving the sensor over each magnet while the spark plug is not in the engine, etc. The attachment in my previous posting has the information.
The other source of my confusion is the fact that the engine comes with the sensor mounted at the bottom of the engine but during the G20 installation it is moved to the side 90degrees.
I also found a 11 part build video series on youtube (which explains hd vs lt head differences among many other things):

Radikal G20 Build - Part 01 - In The Box (5 min 28 sec)