OS .50 Hyper bearing replacement

[RC-Bearings]

Originally Posted by rapidgaz

if the bearings are failing is it due to rust, so bad after run service. i reckon that if i had run my engine for much longer the original 1s would have failed and if the polyamide retainer let go if thing seized up sure it would result with the balls swirling around the crankcase

If you have a rust problem then you really should be using stainless steel bearings. It is funny how some people have no problems with rust and others, using every trick in the book, get rust!

If you are using a polyamide retainer, then it usually will not fail due to a rusted bearing. If you have a steel retainer, it will rust along with the rest of the bearing.

[rapidgaz]

these were the O.M.E and they still rusted and i have spoken to other people who use stainless and there have also rusted, infact its not the steel balls on mine but the outer and inner race that has rusted so they would still have broken up and the retainer would proberbly fail

[RC-Bearings]

Originally Posted by rapidgaz

these were the O.M.E and they still rusted and i have spoken to other people who use stainless and there have also rusted, infact its not the steel balls on mine but the outer and inner race that has rusted so they would still have broken up and the retainer would proberbly fail

Well, I don't know what else I can tell you other than no one has ever reported my stainless steel bearings rusting after install.

[RC-Bearings]

Do NOT use the bearing installation technique in the video unless you want to risk damaging the bearings. Using the crank to pull a bearing into a cold crankcase places a tremendous amount of stress on the balls and races.

Heating the crankcase and pushing the bearing in will be a lot easier on the bearing.

[Mercuriell]

Originally Posted by RC-Bearings

Do NOT use the bearing installation technique in the video unless you want to risk damaging the bearings. Using the crank to pull a bearing into a cold crankcase places a tremendous amount of stress on the balls and races.

Heating the crankcase and pushing the bearing in will be a lot easier on the bearing.

I haven't damaged any bearings in about 8 changes including ceramics using that technique - I don't think steady even force damaging to the bearing races - any sort of impact is a different matter - there's only so much heating you can do of the crankcase before you risk burning yourself

[RC-Bearings]

Originally Posted by Mercuriell

I haven't damaged any bearings in about 8 changes including ceramics using that technique - I don't think steady even force damaging to the bearing races - any sort of impact is a different matter - there's only so much heating you can do of the crankcase before you risk burning yourself

I have replaced hundreds of sets. Unless you have examined bearing races under a microscope (I do that), you don't know that you haven't damaged the races. A couple of the reported ceramic failures were from bearings installed that way. The ramping effect of pulling bearings in like that causes many thousands of PSI at the tiny contact points of the balls and races.

Anyhow, that is NOT a recommended installation method by ANY bearing or equipment manufacturer.

[soloflyt]

Not trying to point fingers here but I actually bought some SS bearings from rc-bearings and it rusted after two weeks of install. I don't know what the heck happened, I was surprised to see it myself. Maybe a bad batch ? I can take photos if needed.

I found out bcoz' the engine was running weird, checked the plug and i saw some rust on it, opened the motor and there it was. The rust was so bad that I can actually wipe it off and some rust would come off and stick on the cloth. I am also confused as to why this happened. two weeks, fresh install, SS, and rusted. You guys have any idea as to why this happened?

Originally Posted by RC-Bearings

Well, I don't know what else I can tell you other than no one has ever reported my stainless steel bearings rusting after install.

[OverTemp]

Hey guys... beside the fear that my new RC-Bearings SS will rust (hopefully not) I need some help removing the rear bearing.

I heated the motor in the oven to 240F and tried to know it out per the video on page one... no luck. Anyone else have any good ideas?

Thanks

[lovespicyfood]

Originally Posted by OverTemp

Hey guys... beside the fear that my new RC-Bearings SS will rust (hopefully not) I need some help removing the rear bearing.

I heated the motor in the oven to 240F and tried to know it out per the video on page one... no luck. Anyone else have any good ideas?

Thanks

I had the same problem! I cranked it up to 350 degrees and they popped out no problem, just like the video.

My SS rc-bearings are going strong...

Pete

[RC-Bearings]

Originally Posted by lovespicyfood

I had the same problem! I cranked it up to 350 degrees and they popped out no problem, just like the video.

My SS rc-bearings are going strong...

Pete

What he said. Just make sure that you don't go above 350F.

[OverTemp]

Cool... thanks. I thought I was gonna beat this thing into the ground

[MrWindupBird]

My OS 50 is sounding sick... so I am gonna open it up. I think I have all the tools except the prop used for pulling crankshaft through. Anyone know what size prop that is in the video? Anything else you can use in place of a prop?

[RC-Bearings]

Originally Posted by MrWindupBird

My OS 50 is sounding sick... so I am gonna open it up. I think I have all the tools except the prop used for pulling crankshaft through. Anyone know what size prop that is in the video? Anything else you can use in place of a prop?

PLEASE do not use the nut on the crankshaft to pull a bearing into place. With the crankcase heated to 350F, the bearings will fall into place properly. If they don't, then look for some FOD getting in the way.

[Mercuriell]

Originally Posted by RC-Bearings

PLEASE do not use the nut on the crankshaft to pull a bearing into place. With the crankcase heated to 350F, the bearings will fall into place properly. If they don't, then look for some FOD getting in the way.

I understand your concern Paul about bearing damage by pulling on inner race - I certainly can testify that ANY impact on the inner race destroys the bearing - I can only relate my experience and say with this technique I haven't had problems and my bearings (mostly yours ) seem to last >100 flights before I change them routinely. I would be concerned about serious burns if people heat up the crank case enough to just 'drop them in' which would be ~ 350F IME

[RC-Bearings]

Originally Posted by Mercuriell

I understand your concern Paul about bearing damage by pulling on inner race - I certainly can testify that ANY impact on the inner race destroys the bearing - I can only relate my experience and say with this technique I haven't had problems and my bearings (mostly yours ) seem to last >100 flights before I change them routinely. I would be concerned about serious burns if people heat up the crank case enough to just 'drop them in' which would be ~ 350F IME

Use whatever technique works for you. Serious burns should not be a problem if you are intelligent enough to know that you need oven mitts or similar to handle hot parts.

I have had customers complain about notchy bearings after install and when queried about how they were installed, they said they used the nut to pull them into place. If the cases aren't heated properly, using the nut to pull bearings into place will apply much more force to the balls and races than just the pressure applied to the nut.

[Mercuriell]

I really can't see how an axial steady force spread over the whole of the inner and outer races by all the balls in the cage is more likely to produce pitting than radial impact from a few balls on a single outer or inner race - I don't assess my bearings by checking the races for microscopic pitting but how long they last before change is necessary

Anyway here is a version (v3) of the OS50 bearing change posted utilising heat installation method recommended by Mr McIntosh !! Hope he approves

[RC-Bearings]

Originally Posted by Mercuriell

I really can't see how an axial steady force spread over the whole of the inner and outer races by all the balls in the cage is more likely to produce pitting than radial impact from a few balls on a single outer or inner race - I don't assess my bearings by checking the races for microscopic pitting but how long they last before change is necessary

Anyway here is a version (v3) of the OS50 bearing change posted utilising heat installation method recommended by Mr McIntosh !! Hope he approves

Now, that was easy, wasn't it. Thanks for the updated video. Now I can recommend it to everyone.

I use oven mitts to handle the hot case.

The only other comment would about the use of a steel retainer in a Hyper engine rear bearing. OS changed early on to a plastic retainer after a mass of retainer failures. They have also changed over a few of their plank engines to them as well.

[MrWindupBird]

Ok - we learn from mistakes, right?

So my rear bearing was stuck on the crankshaft - not stuck in the engine - weird.

Anyway - my only mistake so far - upon finally getting it off, I failed to observe which direction it goes.

Does the open race (you know, you can see the balls) go towards the front (carb) or towards the rear (connecting rod)?

[crash-alot]

You should be able to see the open ball race as look into the crankcase

[RC-Bearings]

Originally Posted by MrWindupBird

Ok - we learn from mistakes, right?

So my rear bearing was stuck on the crankshaft - not stuck in the engine - weird.

Anyway - my only mistake so far - upon finally getting it off, I failed to observe which direction it goes.

Does the open race (you know, you can see the balls) go towards the front (carb) or towards the rear (connecting rod)?

It doesn't really matter. Out of habit I install them with the balls visible through the back.