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Century Century Helicopters Support


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Old 01-01-2014, 01:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Radikal G20 questions

Been thinking about getting the FBL version. From what I have researched on the web is its a decent kit.

On the Century website I don't see anything listed under upgrades or accessories tab. Is this an older kit they are ready to discontinue or replace with the G30 maybe? Is the FBL head the one on the G30? Don't even see it in the G20 manual.

Will Futaba S3152 Digital High Torque Servos with nylon gears work or will I need high power/torque ones? I will be hovering, simple circuits, scale flying, etc.

Is the G20E good out of the box or will it need constant tuning to keep it running? Will the pull start in the combo box hold up?

Sorry for all the beginner questions.
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Old 01-01-2014, 08:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The G20 FBL kit is a nice heli,the head is the same head that comes on a E640 heli which is a 600 class head. As for the upgrades just select G20 LT or any of them and the available upgrades show up such as TT conversion ,pinions ect. As for the pull start make sure it is the HWC rewind with the metal dogs and not the one with the plastic dogs. I always use a electric starter myself as I do not care for the rewinds.
I think the new G20 kits work good out of the box myself .
As for the servo it is pretty slow for flybarless , as for power on 6v it should do ok but you are at a minimum in all categories as far as I am concerned but it will work.
Basic Information

Modulation: Digital Torque: 4.8V:

70.0 oz-in (5.04 kg-cm)
6.0V:

87.0 oz-in (6.26 kg-cm)
Speed: 4.8V:

0.22 sec/60°
6.0V:

0.18 sec/60°
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Old 01-02-2014, 01:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info. Guess I could use maybe the Align DS615 & DS655.
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Old 01-02-2014, 11:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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They will be fine as they have good power and are much faster.
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Old 01-03-2014, 09:23 PM   #5 (permalink)
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As Dennis said, the Align 615s will be good. I am using Futaba 9252s on my G20. I flew mine for one season flybared and then converted it to FBL. The kit I ordered came with both heads. As for the upgrades, I went with metal blade holders on both the head and the tail. I did not have any issues myself with the plastic blade holders, but I never felt comfortable with plastic and have converted all of my helicopters over to metal blade holders. I have the pull-start on my heli but I use the electric starter like Dennis.
As far as tuning and keeping it tuned. I can build G20s all day long. I am no good at fine tuning the carb. If you know someone nearby with experience with these Zenoah motors, they might be willing to help you set the needles. There are also a few factors that play into tuning the carb. Evelvation, seasonal changes and temperature changes all play into tuning. I've been told there is no one magic setting of the needles. It's been a while since I've had my G20 up in the air. Maybe this weekend I'll get a chance to take it up.
I'm no expert, but I'd be glad to offer any assistance I can.

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Old 01-04-2014, 08:03 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info Ted & Dennis. Now for my next question: Engine. I have two choices being Zenoah magneto or EI?

I see Horizon has the G231 with WT-643 carburetor. I love the simplicity of magneto and not having to worry about a battery. I have one (different manufacturer) from my airplane days and it still runs with no problems as of yet.

Then there is the HWC/Zenoah G20E 3D EXPERT ENGINE COMBO from Heli-World.

Is anyone still running a magneto and having success? Or is everyone switching over or starting out with the EI? I have read that in the end there isn't really much weight savings with the two. But EI is a bit easier to start and may run a bit smoother. Any thoughts on this? I like to keep it simple without causing myself too many headaches.
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Old 01-04-2014, 02:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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You have few choices but none include a magneto. The G231 is a completely different engine and will not fit into a G20 frame. So you can put the stock Zenoah G20EI which now has a better ignition module that can take straight 2 cell lipo voltage or the HWC 20EI which are the same basic motor with slight changes. There are also the Hanson and others but all are based on the Zenoah G20EI engine. The G20 heli is built for the Zenoah 20EI engine only. Take care.
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Old 01-04-2014, 02:29 PM   #8 (permalink)
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As far as I know the only Zenoah engine to fit the G20 is the G200 EI. Please correct me if I'm wrong here!
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Old 01-04-2014, 03:02 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The R G20 will only accept a zenoah G200PU style engine. All are EI engines.
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Old 01-04-2014, 03:36 PM   #10 (permalink)
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That just made that decision a lot easier!
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Old 01-04-2014, 03:46 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I would give B H Hanson a call for your engine needs. I spoke to them about an engine for my G20 before I found a good deal on a used G20EI. I was quoted a cheaper price than the HWC engine from them as well.
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Old 01-04-2014, 04:43 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I have run the stock Zenoah 20EI and the Hanson 20EI 3D max and both where great ,the Hanson had considerably more power. A customer ran the HWC and was very happy with it's power also. So they all work well . I would recommend the V2 Torpedo muffler and a good free flow air cleaner such as the Century. The new name for the Zenoah 20cc is ( ZP 20cc ) ? I see that you where calling it the 200 and I am calling it the 20 which it is a 20cc and yes all the 20cc Zenoahs are EI engines and all are airplane motors and come with prop drivers from Zenoah.
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Old 01-04-2014, 05:09 PM   #13 (permalink)
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So it looks like the HWC Zenoah 20E. What about governors? I see they are recommended. What is the simplest one to setup and use? Never used one before so they seem a bit confusing.
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Old 01-04-2014, 11:14 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I like the Futaba GV-1 cause I just split the signal wire for the EI & use it to trigger the governor, works great.
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Old 01-05-2014, 11:27 PM   #15 (permalink)
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The only way I can get my 701 see a constant rpm signal is either the futaba sensor of the fan magnet, or a y harness to split the EI sensor wire to both the CDI and 701. But when I do that, the 701 reads 4.9v instead of the 6.6v life pack I am using to power the radio gear. I haven't tried to run just the signal wire from the sensor to the 701 yet to see if it gets rpm readings without the weird battery volt reading. There is still 6.6v going to the rudder and throttle servos, I just don't like the different voltage readings when the CDI is on.
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Old 01-12-2014, 03:35 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Still doing my research on the G20 and others. Kind of disappointed that Helicopter World has not answered my email that I sent on Jan 2. Wanted to see when the kit would be back in stock. Maybe they are still on vacation or something.
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Old 01-12-2014, 04:14 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I had my G20 in the air for about 5 minutes a few days ago. Overall, I am happy with it. There where some things I wasn't/am not happy about, but it is together and flying. I can't honestly say at this point if i would choose the G20 again if given the chance or not. My wife got me the HD kit for $199, otherwise, I would really be turned off by the kit at regular price.
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Old 01-12-2014, 04:28 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bustedmp View Post
I had my G20 in the air for about 5 minutes a few days ago. Overall, I am happy with it. There where some things I wasn't/am not happy about, but it is together and flying. I can't honestly say at this point if i would choose the G20 again if given the chance or not. My wife got me the HD kit for $199, otherwise, I would really be turned off by the kit at regular price.
As of now I am up in the air in purchasing the G20. Seems that some are experiencing parts quality being is hit or miss. Some missing parts in the kits, etc. I know each manufacture has their issues so I'm going to keep researching.

Been reading the manual and I do like the build of the kit. Don't care for the EI engine - rather have RC.
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Old 01-12-2014, 05:08 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I can tell you their plastic molding process is crap compared to others like JR, and Thunder Tiger. My Swift NX and now the G20 had some of the plastic parts so distorted it was shameful. It has only been the smaller parts I noticed it on though. The bearings they use are not the best either. Overall, the kit went together real nice though, I opted not to use the button head screws either, I ended up using standard allen head screws. I only used the button head where the standard allen heads would not work properly.

I really think this will be my last Century Heli.
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:54 PM   #20 (permalink)
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As far as the EI engine goes, I have mine down to a pretty good science already. Now mine is the Zenoah black box that uses 4.8v only. Once I get fuel to the carb, I can start it using a 6mm hex t handle wrench and a flick of the wrist. The only reason I know this is one night I was turning the engine using the t handle wrench and it started up and scared the crap out of me.

For being on somewhat of a budget here and that I like something to tinker with, I think the G20 is a good fit for me. If I was to go to a 700 sized gasser, I would look at MA or some other brand before the G30V2.

If you do end up getting yourself a G20 kit, Pick up a package or 2 of Align link balls, P/N H60192T and use them instead of the century balls. These are the 3mm threaded balls and are a perfect fit for FMP or Rocket City links, no fitting needed at all. They are butter smooth as they come out of the package. The links the G20 has are pretty heavy duty but I can't say how they fit with the Align balls because I spent a good part of a day fitting the all to the century balls for a perfect fit. the reason I am changing out the balls is some of them ended getting the hex stripped out of them upon installation. I knew which ones where going to strip on the way in because they just didn't fit the hex driver or wrench for crap.

Another thing to look at is the length of the threads on the long balls that thread into the swash plate. If they are not flush with the back side of the hole, get some of the longer balls for it. My kit was missing one of the balls when I started the build. Century sent me replacements that have the long threads. I suspect that is part of the reason people have had the balls pull out of the swash. I also changed the lower canopy mount to a G30 style. I didn't like the hook hanging down from the front tray, it was in the way of where I wanted my CDI mounted.

I knew about most o these things before getting into the kit though. The balls not being of a good quality was something I knew from my Swift, the swash from reading forums trying to make an educated choice on the heli. I now understand how the balls may have pulled from the swash for a few people, with threads being so short on such a long ball, it doesn't surprise me. I am glad mine was missing a ball and century sent me longer replacement.

Good luck with your decision.
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