Compass-USA Sponsored Warp 360 Build Thread

[dunkonu23]

This is what some folks are using for links:

http://www.readyheli.com/H2031-Quick...K_p_32904.html

This is the equivalent on the Quick-UK site:

http://www.quickuk.eu/products/305/w...nts_h2031.html

The difference is subtle--your part number h2031-m3.

Scott

[yhchoong]

Yes, the ones I linked are the 3mm version of the readyheli ones. So I was asking if they were the correct size so that we do not need to get the regular readyheli ones just to have to tap them to 3mm or whichever is the correct size again?

[203killer1]

what size ball link sizers did you guys use to size the links?

[dunkonu23]

I use the standard JR Ball Link sizer. Compass also makes a ball link sizer:

http://www.nankinhobby.com/product-p/e-xqt-01.htm

Scott

[203killer1]

ok thanks

[ScotY]

Originally Posted by yhchoong

The correct size for the links are M3 yes?

I realise QuickUK carries the M3 version, so we don't have to re-tap it like the regular ones.

http://www.quickuk.eu/products/3678/..._h2031-m3.html

I don't know if these are better than the smaller recommended ones but the manual does say the pushrods are M3.

What I would like to find are some 18mm turnbuckles...anywhere from 2-3mm OD would be fine with me.

[dunkonu23]

Only one step tonight, but tomorrow, we'll tackle the frames! The motor mount is here...



We had people over earlier today, so I put this sign on my work area! It worked.



The motor and bag 28.



Bag 28 comes with connectors, the motor mount, a pulley, a centering tool, and the hardware to mount it all. Since connectors were provided, I took some time to solder connectors on both my motor and ESC.

One hint about soldering the connectors: The braided insulation can come off the motor leads. If this happens to you, make sure you push the lead completely inside the motor can until it stops. When you're heating your shrink tubing, push the braided insulation back towards the motor. This way, the shrink tubing performs double duty--it insulates and it keeps the installation in the right place inside the motor!



The motor has two pairs of holes for mounting. Please note the distance from the motor shaft. Because of clearance issues Rob43 and Gawl suggested using the holes closest to the motor shaft. That's what we'll do.



When you mount the motor, the manual says to run the leads to the rear on either the right or left side of the motor. I have mine on the left side (note the picture is from the bottom).

The centering tool is a conical machined piece of aluminum. The cone side fits inside the motor mount hole. To use it, press down on the tool while you evenly tighten the screws. When you're done, you should have a centered motor. Centering the motor is critical. If you didn't apply thread locker before you centered the motor, you can do it now. Just remove one screw, apply thread locker, then reinstall and tighten; then do the same with the other screw.



At the suggestion of Rob and Gawl, I used inner holes of the motor. If you want the leads to be on the left side, simply flip the motor mount.



Next we install the pulley. The pulley needs to be approximately 1/2 mm from the motor mount in order to clear the belt tensioners. Install the pulley so the set screw fits on the pre-machined flat spot.



The completed motor mount. Note the connectors.

Tomorrow, we're going to build the frames, so stay tuned.

Scott (mistake free?)

[radu7]

Originally Posted by ScotY

I don't know if these are better than the smaller recommended ones but the manual does say the pushrods are M3.

What I would like to find are some 18mm turnbuckles...anywhere from 2-3mm OD would be fine with me.

ALZRC makes 19mm 2.3mm OD ones. They look a bit different than what I'm used to seeing in that they use a small wrench to adjust them rather than a pin/through-hole. Never used them, but read they work really well. I plan to try them out on one of my other 450's if not the Warp as well.

You can find them here or other places that carry ALZRC parts:

http://www.hk-parts.com/halicoptor/a...re-d45p26.html

[dunkonu23]

Here we go! Frame part 1.



Before I started the frame, I thought it would be a good time to set centers on my cyclic servos and rudder servo. I programmed a model into my DX8, bound the AR7200BX to the model, then powered up. Everything was good. Then I programmed servo frequencies into the AR7200BX. Finally, I attached the servos to the FBL unit and arranged them in the order they will be in the frame. I then powered up and went straight to setup step G for servo centering.



In order to get proper centers, attach the arms. Above shows the finished result. With different servos, I've been able to get center simply by swapping around link arms. With these MKS-92+ servos, I had to use Step G's subtrim option. No biggie, but I will check centers frequently. I should add that I did this because some folks in other threads wrote that it was difficult to get to the servo arms when the frame halves were joined.



Next it was time to install some servos into the frames... The frame bag is in the main box and additionally hardware is in bag 29 30 31.



Make sure to take sharp edges off the frame by sanding. Again, wet sanding is preferable, but if you use dry sandpaper, wear a mask. 600 or 800 grit works well.



Since the frame standoffs are plastic, put CA on a toothpick and apply it to the inside of the standoff as shown. Note that the screw starts really easily.



Because the screw starts easily, be careful not to over tighten.



To prepare for installing the servos, pre-thread the servo nuts. It makes the process MUCH easier.



Starting with the rudder servo, slide it into the frame. Micro servos such as the MKS DS95i go on the left frame half. Mini servos go on the right frame half. Note the spacer. The manual indicated it went on the outside of the servo mounting tabs and not between the servo and the frames.



Here's a trick I picked up from past builds. Servo nuts get lost! So, when I built my first kit with servo nuts, I learned the hard way that putting CA under the servo nut so it will stay put when servo maintenance is required.



Don't over tighten the servo mounting screws. They go into plastic and can strip.



Next step is to install the elevator servo. Use the large spacers. Remember to pre-thread the servo nuts you use. Also with DS92+ servos, the servo lead comes out right over one of the screws. If you use this servo type, be very careful when you install and tighten the screw! Finally, the manual stated 1mm spacers were not necessary with MKS DS92+ and DS95 cyclics.



The servo nut is on the other side. I used one of the plastic servo nuts in the kit--one hole only.



I checked to make sure the elevator ball was in the center of the frame by positioning the electronics tray in its slots and sighting down the center. This is easy because the screws holding the electronics tray to its supports are on the center line of the helicopter. Also, note the large spacer between the elevator servo and the frame.

Next up, we continue with the frames!

Scott

[shaman3]

Hi Scott,
it looks like you have installed the motor on the wrong side of the mount (p.28) I made that same mistake so at least I´m not the only one
Cheers, Daniel

[Bob O]

Nice tip on using the electronics mount to sight down for centering of the elevator servo ball.

Sent from my phone

[dunkonu23]

Originally Posted by shaman3

Hi Scott,
it looks like you have installed the motor on the wrong side of the mount (p.28) I made that same mistake so at least I´m not the only one
Cheers, Daniel

I'll likely know soon, but I don't think it's on the wrong side, though. There is only one way to install the motor using the inner screws--note that I used the outer screws in those pictures--and have the wires leave on the left rear side. I am using the inner screws now.

Scott

[dunkonu23]

I just test fit the motor. From what I see, it's fine. That may change, but for right now, it's good.

Scott

[dunkonu23]

Part 2 of the frame assembly. This took a bit of time as I was making sure things were right and I've made some wiring decisions.



Lots-o-numbers on this bag! Many steps!



The bag-o-numbers contains the battery tray, the special washer for belt tensioner, and screws for what is to come.



Plastic to metal = CA in the screw holes--applied via trusty toothpick.



The tray has a ridge for fitting, the frame fits into the ridge. It might be a bit anal, but I started attaching the battery tray to the frame using screws in the center and worked my way out.



I have a suggestion for building the belt tensioner that may help eliminate confusion and installation woes: Don't assemble it at Step 23--assemble it now. That way you have a better chance at getting it right and getting it to fit properly!

When you attach the assembly to the frame, use the special washer but don't crank down on the screws. This assembly has slots to slide freely and must move with the motor as you adjust belt tension.



The belt tensioner installed. The screws are tightened so it won't move up and down, but will still slide in the slots.



This is the belt tensioner clearance for my kit. Both upper and lower pulley's rotate freely.



Installing the upper bearing block.



The flange must face toward the top of the frame.



Installing the lower bearing block. Don't tighten the screws just yet.



The lower bearing blocks bearing flange must fit toward the bottom.



Slide in the main shaft to align the bearing blocks. Tighten the lower bearing block with the shaft installed. Next, bring the helicopter upright. The main shaft should slide freely through the bearings. A "Fall Through" fit is desired.



Note the orientation of the bearing blocks, particularly the screw holes. These are the holes for the aileron/pitch servo mounts.



In order to get a good fit in the frame, at this point wiring choices were necessary--they may change, but for now, this is how I ran the aileron/pitch servo leads.



Top view of the wiring run.



Next, I test fit the servos/mount. I only used one screw to get an idea of fit. Looks like ear on the elevator servo may hit the servo in front.



Test fit picture 2. Looks like the wires are fine. Please note: This was only a test wiring scenario. It is provided as an example of how it could be done. As such, all wires do clear the main shaft and are not crimped at all. I will likely change it once I get further along. Another option is to come over the top main bearing and run the wires between the servos on the front side of the mount. If that is what I finally choose, I will likely use something like Scotch 4011 to hold the wires down in a sandwich fashion.



The wiring was fine so I installed and thread locked the remaining screws for the servo/mount.



I then clipped the ears on the elevator servo arm.

Next up, we'll finish this side of the frame. It looks like it will be a good time to make the remaining wiring choices, too. Additionally, I'll attempt to mount my ESC. My ESC is a Castle ICE 50, so it will be tight. I may have to trim the mounting ears from its plastic case. Additionally, before the right half of the frame is installed, I will install and test the elevator/antirotation link.

Scott

[dunkonu23]

Originally Posted by Bob O

Nice tip on using the electronics mount to sight down for centering of the elevator servo ball.

Sent from my phone

Thanks! The build is moving along, now. Soon it will start to look like a helicopter!

Scott

[brent.downey]

Excellent.

Can you get pics of the Ice 50 mounting? I have the same one and I am a bit worried as some say it will be too big.


Great work!

[dunkonu23]

Will do as soon as I get to it, Brent. I did a test fit and it looks like the tabs may have to go, but we'll see.

Scott

[Luvmyhelis]

Originally Posted by brent.downey

Excellent.

Can you get pics of the Ice 50 mounting? I have the same one and I am a bit worried as some say it will be too big.


Great work!

I have a question. Since the Ice 50 is 34.55mm wide and only 22.56mm thick, why not inside mount it in the forward frame area? I have mounted them this way on their side in numerous 450s in the past. Especially for 6s since the system draws less amps? Most mine barely get warm. And one of the great things about the Ice 50 is that it is designed with the large sink as to not need airflow. So a great spot would be to mount it above the plastic battery tray inside the frame. Just a thought?

[dunkonu23]

This is exactly what I'm thinking and where I test fit it, but the tabs may have to go in order to mount it as far forward as possible.

Scott

[itsmillertime0]

Originally Posted by Luvmyhelis

I have a question. Since the Ice 50 is 34.55mm wide and only 22.56mm thick, why not inside mount it in the forward frame area? I have mounted them this way on their side in numerous 450s in the past. Especially for 6s since the system draws less amps? Most mine barely get warm. And one of the great things about the Ice 50 is that it is designed with the large sink as to not need airflow. So a great spot would be to mount it above the plastic battery tray inside the frame. Just a thought?

I originally wanted my Ice 50 lite to go there but the motor leads would hit the main gear. I ended up attaching it to the bottom of the radio tray.