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700 Class Electric Helicopters 700 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar. |
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10-13-2012, 12:28 AM | #1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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700 DFC Swash to grip links
After doing nothing but autos today, when I finished up, I was examining my DFC setup, and found that the links from the blade grips were extremely loose where the link assembly screws into the main grip housing. It was allowing the swash to rotate back and forth several degrees.
I have read where it shouldn't be too tight in the main part of the grip assembly where the turnbuckle (like) threads screw into the housing, but these were just too loose. SAB had a service bulletin where they indicated that the loosness is designed to relieve bending stresses on the assembly and that it shouldn't be too tight. What is everyone doing here? Are you putting JB weld or loctite in the threads and screwing them in? Or using red loctite? I am trying what I think will give a happy medium. I wrapped the threads with several turns of white plumber's teflon tape, enough that it tightened up the threads where they didn't wobble. I think it will still allow the two parts to slightly flex to reduce the bending stresses, but not so loose it allows the swash to move. Any other ideas?
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10-13-2012, 03:37 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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I use normal strength blue loctite & I've never had an issue.
The links need to be tightened all the way into the pitch arm, don't leave them loose. If yours have been loose for a while they will have most likely flogged out the threads on both the links & the arms requiring replacement of both items..
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10-13-2012, 04:09 PM | #3 (permalink) |
Join Date: Sep 2012
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I also use regular loctite to fix those screws. Once they get loose, they will not only damage the threads but they'll bend and finally break.
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10-13-2012, 05:49 PM | #4 (permalink) |
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Join Date: May 2012
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Teflon plumbers tape is good for pipe joints, but not good for threaded link joints or bolts. You should have used blue thread locker and tightened the threaded link into the control link. There is no flexing needed or required in that joint....
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10-14-2012, 04:43 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Oct 2009
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Any pictures? I was also little confused about how far the ball joint should be turned in.
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10-15-2012, 06:39 AM | #6 (permalink) |
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Join Date: May 2008
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IMHO I thought the threads were a little sloppy to begin with. You can order a 3mm helicoil kit for situations like this but I'm not sure how much meat would be left if you drill it out and tap for the helicoil. You can bet I'll think about it. Yup, blue locktite...... but you have to clean the thread on the steel link before re-installing them, otherwise the locktite will gouge the softer aluminum threads.
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10-16-2012, 11:52 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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Got a replacement set from my LHS. Man, were my originals loose. I hope i don't ever bend the turnbuckle like bolt, as I did like the LHS said and used JB Weld and tightened it all the way in. It ain't gonna ever come loose.
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