300x No Fuss Drop-In Aftermarket Servos

[thruster]

Originally Posted by senate422

I used Savox 1257 cyclic

Perhaps you meant the savox 0257 ? Because the 1257 is a large standard size servo.....where as the 0257 is a fairly popular micro size. Good to hear they fit easy.

[Epoweredrc]

Doublech your PM box is full
Okay so the front one needs to be Shimmed and the back to the coronas of the 919 need to be trimmed also, I guess maybe a file would take care of this

[senate422]

Yes, 0257, 1257's are on my 1/8 scale r/c stuff! haha good catch.

[DoubleCH]

Originally Posted by Epoweredrc

Doublech your PM box is full
Okay so the front one needs to be Shimmed and the back to the coronas of the 919 need to be trimmed also, I guess maybe a file would take care of this

Nail-clipper is your friend. Just clip the little nubs on the ears on the elevator servo and round out the ears with more nail-clipping. Shim the rear servo ears with Blade spare part package paper folded and a hole poked for the screw and then the ball can be mounted servo side of the servo arm.

[thruster]

Got my hitec HS-5055mg servos mounted perfect with small brass bushings for spacers.
Before that I installed a lynx short main shaft. Got the cyclic pushrods and collective links shortened and leveled the swash with new swash leveler tool. But I guess the final leveling gets done during BX setup..? Soldered connectors on the YEP30 speed control.....tested and works.....still need to use my program card to set it up for heli.....should be easy. After remounting the motor and blades should be ready to do BX setup for the first time. I have a few saved posts with good info and need to read the steps in the manual again.

[Dustin Mustangs]

90ing your horns, leveling/centering your swash, and setting tracking/zero pitch is all done in step g of the Bx setup. I would recommend the videos for help while following along on a hard copy of the manual.

[Uriah]

If it helps, I recently made a post in this thread about how to do setup menu G.

[Dustin Mustangs]

Uriah, why do you recommend not setting zero pitch the same way on both grips? I have had excellent results that way and (to me) it just seems easier and more intuitive. I have checked them afterwords with a caliper and they do come out the same. Just curious...

Also, do you not unplug motor wires when setting up a Bx? I did not see that mentioned in your post. Not sure if it is really needed but it sure seems like good practice.

Nice write up regardless and, in general, I really appreciate the time and effort you put into sharing your knowledge on this site.

[Uriah]

Originally Posted by Dustin Mustangs

Uriah, why do you recommend not setting zero pitch the same way on both grips? I have had excellent results that way and (to me) it just seems easier and more intuitive. I have checked them afterwords with a caliper and they do come out the same. Just curious...

Excellent question. There's a dozen and one ways to do zero pitch, and none of them are necessarily wrong, but some require more trial and error with things like blade tracking than others. Your way will work fine, provided your eyes are dead accurate for both grips and provided you're zeroing both grips on the same side of the swashplate. The reason I suggest using digital calipers on the second grip's linkage is to help ensure your blades track well for the first flight without overly relying on your eyes to be dead on for both grips. Your blades don't necessarily have to be perfectly level at 50% collective - they just have to have the exact same pitch on both grips at any given point in your collective (i.e. blade tracking). Assuming you don't have bent grips, warped blades, loose linkages, etc., your blades should track perfectly if the linkages for both grips are the same length. If you eye the one grip/linkage correctly, the other grip should need the same linkage length for the blades to track well. If you zero both grips separately, you need to make sure your swashplate is either perfectly level or that you zero both grips on a specific side of the swashplate. An even slightly unlevel swashplate can give you a false reading if you choose to zero the blades separately. Blade tracking is more important than 0 pitch at 50% collective. Obviously, the ultimate goal is to have a perfectly level swash, perfect blade tracking, and perfect 0 pitch at 50% collective. With this technique, I don't even bother with things like tracking tape, anymore. There has been a time or two when I've had to adjust one linkage by a half turn or so for the blades to track perfectly, but that was usually a result of a loose linkage, slightly deformed plastic blade, or other imperfection in the actual hardware. Generally speaking, a correctly setup head shouldn't require any trial and error to get the blades to track perfectly, especially on a FBL head. Tracking tape is left-over remnants of the flybar days when pilots didn't have/use flybar locks while setting up their heads.

Originally Posted by Dustin Mustangs

Also, do you not unplug motor wires when setting up a Bx? I did not see that mentioned in your post. Not sure if it is really needed but it sure seems like good practice.

Yea, I missed that (good eye!), but it was mentioned in my follow up post two posts down. I never even thought to put that in my initial post. I suppose there's things we know that we sometimes take for granted.