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JS TZ-V2 Frenzy JS Models TZ-V2 Frenzy Helicopters Discussion


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Old 04-13-2009, 12:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Joining the Frenzy

Well I had to jump in on this Frenzy thing as well. I'm not sure about all the noise and smoke yet. I've been flying 10S flybarless T-Rex 600e. The Frenzy feels much larger and smoother and seems to track much better through loops and rainbows. I'm using the TT .53 Redline and TT 3D pipe, Stick Bangers and the stock paddles and it's pretty darn quick on the cyclic. Only 6 flights so far and it isn't completely leaned out yet but it seems to have enough power. Without a doubt it's the easiest and quickest heli you'll ever put together! I love the preassembled sections and especially the links already made up to the correct length! Other than putting the links on the tail pitch control rod they're all done! A few turns to get to 0 degrees pitch on the main blades and it's done!
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Frenzy 50 with SK-360, AR7100R, BLS451, Edge FBL Blades, Spartan DS 760.Frenzy 90 with SK-720, AR7100R, BLS451, OS 91 HZ-PS. ELY-Q Vision 90 with BeastX, AR7100R, BLS451, OS 91 HZ-R, Radix FBL. JR X9303
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Old 04-14-2009, 07:35 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Welcome aboard. After you see that you can fuel and go, fuel and go, fuel and go, you will start to like the noise and smoke .
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Old 04-14-2009, 03:03 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I do have to admit James that once my nerves get used to all the distracting noise and smoke I think I will enjoy the extra flight times and the consistency of power through the entire flight. I managed to get in three more flights after work last night. You sure have to have careful collective management though. It doesn't have near the raw power that the electric does.
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Frenzy 50 with SK-360, AR7100R, BLS451, Edge FBL Blades, Spartan DS 760.Frenzy 90 with SK-720, AR7100R, BLS451, OS 91 HZ-PS. ELY-Q Vision 90 with BeastX, AR7100R, BLS451, OS 91 HZ-R, Radix FBL. JR X9303
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Old 04-14-2009, 03:14 PM   #4 (permalink)
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yes, nitro does not have that instant torque of an electric. But with that TT 53, it should be pretty damn close. I have one on my Knight 50 3D and I really have to bang on the collective to get it to bogg down. You might need to lean it out some more?
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Old 04-15-2009, 05:54 AM   #5 (permalink)
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<CLICK> I just pulled the trigger this AM. Ordered from both A-Main and Tower. Used a discount on each, plus Super Saver club on Tower for a combined total of $90 off!! Grand total: $840!! Only thing missing (I think) is the RX and battery, both of which I believe I have on the shelf, and I'll swing through the LHS tonight and see if they have the R30 to get the 8.7:1 gear set. Oh, and maybe a governor. Will have to think on that one.

Here's my setup:

Thunder Tiger 600mm Wood Main Rotor Blades (TTRPV0118)
Curtis Youngblood Muscle Pipe 5 (50 Size) (YEI-YP-MP550)
JS Models TZ-V2 "3D Frenzy" .50 Size Pro Helicopter Kit (JSS-TZ50V2)
Hyperion Atlas DS20-FMD Fully Programmable Digital Servo
Futaba GY401 Gyro w/S9254 Digital Servo
O.S. Engines 50SX-H Ringed Hyper
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Old 04-15-2009, 10:20 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Highly recommend a governor

unless you dont hit that stunt switch
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Old 04-15-2009, 09:36 PM   #7 (permalink)
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A couple of questions. I have a spare AR6200 RX that I was thinking of running off of a 3S Lipo through a CC BEC, which is rated at 10 amps, stepping down to 6v. All of that I had setting in bench stock. This evening I picked up an Align voltage regulator to drop the voltage down to 5.1v for the tail servo. What kind of amp draw am I likely to see from this set up? Is the 10 amp BEC sufficient? The amount of voltage drop isn't an issue with a switching BEC, right? I seem to recall that's how it was discussed on one of the podcasts.

Oh, and I picked up the TT 0518 gear seat at the LHS tonight. Only one they had on the shelf!

And finally, I placed my order this morning, and A-Main has shipped already!! If they keep up this level of customer service, and keep the prices reasonable, then they've got me as a lifelong customer!!

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Old 04-15-2009, 10:22 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Okay, I think I've answered my amperage question. I see from the specs that the 2-in-1 that James is using is rated at 6 amps output to the RX, so my 10 amps should be plenty. However, I've seen a couple of comments about linear VRs and am wondering if I'm apt to see interference problems from using a switching VR. Thoughts?
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Old 04-15-2009, 10:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Tom,

Stepping down for the tail servo depends on what servo you are running. I actually spoke to futaba about this issues with the 9254 servo that is popular with the 50 size nitros and was told that if it is a "regulated" 6 volts, the tail servo will be ok. It is when you run it on an unregulated 5 cell nicad that there are problems as the starting voltage on those packs will be over 7 volts. BUT, if you have the step down for the tail, use it. Nothing wrong with added insurance!

The CC BEC did not leave a "warm, fuzzy" feeling with me. I ran one on a Hawk Pro and caused atleast 2 crashes I know for sure and probably another. When I finally got around to bench testing it, it was failing under loads and rebooting my receiver. There are equal good reports as there are bad reports out there when it comes to the CC BEC. IMHO, switching BECs/Regs are not a "neccesity" when you are running off a 2 Cell lipo. Any of the linear regs will be just fine. Where switching BECs/Regs become more important is when you are running Electric helis that you are supplying RX power off your flight pack that is 3 cells or more. Also, with a switching BEC/Reg, you have the add electrical noise created from the switching going on. With a linear BEC/Reg, you do not have this noise. Just one less thing to worry about. The heat losses running a Linear BEC and 2S Lipo are not really enough to worry about, IMHO, the switching noise is more of a concern.

I have used the Align 2in1 and a MPI 6v Reg as well. Both of these are linear. I like the Align 2in1 because I do not have to tote a glow driver around with me. Just one less thing I have to worry about being charged when I want to fly.
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Old 04-16-2009, 09:36 PM   #10 (permalink)
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James,

Thanks for the advise on the BEC. I also like the built in glow starter. I'll be picking up one of those too.

Also, thanks for the heads up on the wood blades. I've got a nephew in Ohio that says he's used those same blades before, but they were nothing but trouble. Says you couldn't give him a set now. I figure I'll try them, but if they're much of a problem, or after they've served their purpose (i.e. hovering and basic forward flight), I'll upgrade to something a little better. And I'll definitely keep an eye on my head speed while running them. Don't like the thought of having shrapnel flying at me! Managed not to have that problem in 20 years of service. Don't see a need to start now.

-- Tom
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Old 04-17-2009, 11:41 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I have to tell you,

My experience with wood blades are not good. When you have wood blades they dont like to track very well. So in turn it actually makes it harder to control the heli. A long time ago way back to the blade cp, I couldnt even get that blade to even hover without fighting every move. And i went through all the blades at the LHS. They had one set left and they were carbon fiber. I went ahead and bit the bullet and got them, and to my surprise it straitened that blade cp right out and it actually flew pretty good. Just an opinion
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Old 04-20-2009, 06:39 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Picked up the Align 2-in-1 at the LHS today. Still need to pick up a couple of nice sized 2S batts. Kept eyeballing some of the CF blades, but resisted for the moment. Suspect I'll surrender to the blade lust after next payday. Got the engine and gyro/tail server from Brown Santa today too. The rest of the stuff is supposed to arrive tomorrow. -- Tom
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Old 04-20-2009, 07:23 PM   #13 (permalink)
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www.curtisyoungblood.com

Radix Cosmetic Flawed blades are $62. Not as hard on the wallet as $100 for a Retail Set. CosFlaws are the only blades I use.

Helidirect has some Carbon Fiber and Fiber Glass blades for around $45. Not the best blade in the world, but if you are hovering and doing forward/backwards flight, they will be more then sufficient.

Then again, the woodies will do fine as well.
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Old 04-20-2009, 08:01 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Gotta love it!! I was just thinking I'd go do a google search for "Curtis Youngblood cosmetic defect" to see if it would lead me to the right site! Like I've said. I'll use the woodies for what they're worth, then move on to CF or glass. -- Tom
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Old 04-23-2009, 07:42 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Woohooo!! She's in! Unfortunately, higher priorities call this weekend, and next. I've got to wrap up my Polaris, then I'm free to start my build during the week. Anyone care to see a build thread? I don't know if I can add much more than what James put into the review. It really is in pretty good sized pre-assembled sections. Or any particular photos anyone want to see while I'm building? -- Tom
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Old 04-27-2009, 10:59 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Hey, I've joined the Frenzy

Got everything shipped in last week and finally got to start in on it tonight. The manual is a bit "interesting". It is much better than some translated manuals I've seen, but it obviously applies to some earlier version. Looks like a really quick build. I plan on a stock set-up, at least initially. Are there any necessary mods? I did get a kit with the improved counter-shaft bearing/block, so that mod is done.

- Doug
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Old 04-29-2009, 02:13 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw20rr View Post
Hey, I've joined the Frenzy

Got everything shipped in last week and finally got to start in on it tonight. The manual is a bit "interesting". It is much better than some translated manuals I've seen, but it obviously applies to some earlier version. Looks like a really quick build. I plan on a stock set-up, at least initially. Are there any necessary mods? I did get a kit with the improved counter-shaft bearing/block, so that mod is done.

- Doug
Take out and locktite the bolts. There was mostly none on mine.

When adjusting the tail belt your tail pulley will most likely be ob longed/out of round. Make sure to rotate the tail and create a happy medium for belt tension. If not you may have a very loose spot on the low spot or a very tight spot while on the high spot.
It will be ok to fly like that but I would replace it sooner then later. Call amainhobbies, they have a gear that will work until the updated parts are out.
Keep a watch on some of the links. There were a few that were tight in my kit. Strange plastic and ended up squeezing the links on the ball to resize them. The sizer would not do a thing. Strange...

If your into 3d I would shoot the stock paddles away and use some good carbons and possible change the flybar to a 440. I tried a ton of combos and ended up with vpaddles and a trex600 440 flybar. This is good for me anyways.

Otherwise it really was a good build and it fly's excellent. It gets my 2009 best bang for the buck award
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Old 05-17-2009, 07:25 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Just got my cos flaw blades today. Other than the engraving indicating it, I certainly can't see a flaw!! Also picked up an ATG v3 governor the other day too. I THINK I'm done buying parts. Will start actually building before too much longer.
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Old 05-21-2009, 11:08 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Default frenzy

recived mine today. not bad for 220.00
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