Esky EK0406A Transmitter - Whats it all about.

[another_finn]

Originally Posted by walkera4g3

The knob on your right is for your gyro.

And before anyone gets confused, that's for the new ET6I transmitters (that used to be known as the EK2-0406F and EK2-0406J).

[walkera4g3]

Originally Posted by another_finn

And before anyone gets confused, that's for the new ET6I transmitters (that used to be known as the EK2-0406F and EK2-0406J).

Cool thank you.

Hey guys, Can I use this ET6i TX to fly a plane cessna? If I can, how should i have the dip switch settings on it? Obviously I dont need ccpm.

Thank you

Paul

[walkera4g3]

Originally Posted by med96ben

I have the 6 channel tx and receiver. I use it for a plane. The thing has a habit of shutting down on me if I run full throttle with a fully charged battery. I have switched motors, servos, batteries, esc with no luck. So I guess it is the tx/rx setup. Anyone know what this is about?

What's your dip switch settings at the back of your TX. I will try it on my cessna, and see if it will happen to me too.

[another_finn]

Originally Posted by walkera4g3

Hey guys, Can I use this ET6i TX to fly a plane cessna? If I can, how should i have the dip switch settings on it? Obviously I dont need ccpm.

No reason why you couldn't - but don't stray too far. I don't know about ET6I signal strength, but the older transmitters would definitely fall in the parkflyer category. Switch settings should be the same you would use for a simulator, unless they changed something in the electronics. Should be easy enough to test... If your control surfaces move with throttle input, you need to go back and try another setting.

[walkera4g3]

Originally Posted by another_finn

No reason why you couldn't - but don't stray too far. I don't know about ET6I signal strength, but the older transmitters would definitely fall in the parkflyer category. Switch settings should be the same you would use for a simulator, unless they changed something in the electronics. Should be easy enough to test... If your control surfaces move with throttle input, you need to go back and try another setting.

woah. how far can i go with this TX mika? Can you please give me a rough estimate on meters

Thank you

Paul

[another_finn]

Originally Posted by walkera4g3

woah. how far can i go with this TX mika? Can you please give me a rough estimate on meters

Not really... Depends on the condition of your batteries, antenna placement, weather, interference sources in the area, dumb luck and the phase of the moon. Plus I never tested it beyond 50 m.

All I know is it's not going to be anywhere near 1,000 meters, no matter what the box might say. I'd start getting really uncomfortable anywhere beyond 100, and I don't think I would fly past 250 in any conditions. I might be a pessimist, but that's just another word for someone who will never have to retrieve his model from a neighbor's windshield

[walkera4g3]

super kool, thank you mika. I'll take your advice.

Cheers

Paul

[qraphic]

I'm a beginner. Also i have Belt Cp v2 with ET6I Transmitter.
What's the position of IDLE UP Switch (N or 1) and GYRO.SW (0 or 1) for a normal fly.
Thanks

[walkera4g3]

Originally Posted by qraphic

I'm a beginner. Also i have Belt Cp v2 with ET6I Transmitter.
What's the position of IDLE UP Switch (N or 1) and GYRO.SW (0 or 1) for a normal fly.
Thanks

N and 0

[InHumanForm]

Originally Posted by another_finn

Switches inside battery compartment:



A - aileron & rudder. Up = AIL left, RUD right. Down = AIL right, RUD left.
B - pitch & elevator. Up = PIT right, ELE left. Down = PIT left, ELE right.

Mode 1 is A down, B up.
Mode 2 is both switches down.

1 - Pitch mixing. On = FP mode (90 deg swash), Off = pitch mixing enabled.
2 - Mixing mode. On = Belt style mixing, Off = CP2 style mixing.

Whats the normal mode here?

[sutty]

If you want Mode 2, which is common, this is throttle and rudder on the left, from the post by Another Finn, you need both switches A and B down.

For the mixing, also from the post, you need to have pitch mixing enabled, which is Switch 1 Off. You also need Belt style mixing which is Switch 2 On.

So you require switches A & B to be in the down position, and Switch 1 to be off, and Switch 2 to be on.

I hope this is clear.

If you left your servo reversing alone you should be good to go, but if not, you may have to tweak those too.

Good luck.

Sutty

[InHumanForm]

Originally Posted by sutty

If you want Mode 2, which is common, this is throttle and rudder on the left, from the post by Another Finn, you need both switches A and B down.

For the mixing, also from the post, you need to have pitch mixing enabled, which is Switch 1 Off. You also need Belt style mixing which is Switch 2 On.

So you require switches A & B to be in the down position, and Switch 1 to be off, and Switch 2 to be on.

I hope this is clear.

If you left your servo reversing alone you should be good to go, but if not, you may have to tweak those too.

Good luck.

Sutty

when its set like that the throttle comes on auto and the right hand servo does not work at all...when i pres down on down stick throttle decreases

[sutty]

These are the correct settings. For interest I have just checked mine too, and it has never been used on a SIM, so the switches have never been moved, and it is just as I have just described above, and as Another Finn explained.

As for your desciption of what is now happening on yours, I'm afraid I am not entirely clear about what you are saying. Perhaps it is just me, and I don't mean to sound picky, but please take some more time to describe your exact issue, as I simply could not understand anything about your previous post, apart from a servo doesn't work. Sorry.

[InHumanForm]

ok i plugged in the battery and it pulled the right servo all the way back...pulling the swashplate down to the right...now ill try to move the right stick...as i moved it around then up it went beep beep beep and the motor started running....if i press down on the right stick it stops...if i leave the right stick it spins...if i press throttle up it moves the elevator/pitch backwards like it should be if i pull back on the right stick....hope this helps....oh and if i press down on the right stick it brakes the motor immediately..
Thanks
Form

[sutty]

Really sorry about this IHF, but I just wrote a long and detailed response, and before I posted my PC went BSOD on me, and I haven't time to write it again.

Very very briefly, as I am going out. If you have a 406A, which I presume you have, as you have posted in this thread, then the switch positions mentioned are correct for Mode two, throttle and rudder on the left.

What you describe, is evidently throttle on the right. It arms the ESC when you pull the stick back and it sees zero, and then, when it re-centres, it moves you to mid stick throttle, which is why it start up and so something is clearly still wrong, but the switch positions posted are correct.

Since doing what is recommended didn't work, I can only suggest you try all the positions, there are only 15 possibilities, because with four switches, four bits if you will, this is all you can represent. This should not take too long, but again, I have a 406A, and have checked, and the switches are as described above.

I have to go out now, so sorry if you havent got there yet, but I'm sure the other guys can continue.

Good luck.


Sut
p.s. You might want to back your motor off from the main gear to prevent any further accidental startups. This is better than disconnecting the motor, as you will be able to hear the ESC arming beeps, produced by the motor coils. Gotto go, Bye.

[InHumanForm]

Originally Posted by sutty

Really sorry about this IHF, but I just wrote a long and detailed response, and before I posted my PC went BSOD on me, and I haven't time to write it again.

Very very briefly, as I am going out. If you have a 406A, which I presume you have, as you have posted in this thread, then the switch positions mentioned are correct for Mode two, throttle and rudder on the left.

What you describe, is evidently throttle on the right. It arms the ESC when you pull the stick back and it sees zero, and then, when it re-centres, it moves you to mid stick throttle, which is why it start up and so something is clearly still wrong, but the switch positions posted are correct.

Since doing what is recommended didn't work, I can only suggest you try all the positions, there are only 15 possibilities, because with four switches, four bits if you will, this is all you can represent. This should not take too long, but again, I have a 406A, and have checked, and the switches are as described above.

I have to go out now, so sorry if you havent got there yet, but I'm sure the other guys can continue.

Good luck.


Sut
p.s. You might want to back your motor off from the main gear to prevent any further accidental startups. This is better than disconnecting the motor, as you will be able to hear the ESC arming beeps, produced by the motor coils. Gotto go, Bye.

thanks alot ill try again 2morrow...gonna sleep now...the rotors and all is off just the shaft on..so will c what i can do and keep you posted