Building a Carbon Fiber tail pitch control rod.

[Larry227]

I used this kit. http://www.heliproz.com/prodinfo.asp?number=125860 and it's worked great for over a year now. I should probably order another for a spare since they don't always seem to be in stock.

[WBFAir]

Originally Posted by Larry227

I used this kit. http://www.heliproz.com/prodinfo.asp?number=125860 and it's worked great for over a year now. I should probably order another for a spare since they don't always seem to be in stock.

Boy, gotta say, between the rod kit, and a package of JB Weld, and then the lowest form of shipping they offered of something a little over 12.00, total to get one CF rod setup for this helo came out to over $27.00.

Ouch.

[GT86]

You can use the one from the Pro. Just need to heat one of the ends to loosen the epoxy, slide the metal collar off, and pull the threaded section out. Cut the rod to the right length, then epoxy the thread section and collar back on.

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[WBFAir]

Originally Posted by GT86

You can use the one from the Pro. Just need to heat one of the ends to loosen the epoxy, slide the metal collar off, and pull the threaded section out. Cut the rod to the right length, then epoxy the thread section and collar back on.

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Just asking but do you think that is going to be strong enough?

Am going with a full size servo on the tail and am going to be using one of the Outrage Torq BL9188's on it which is going to basically be just about doubling my Torque, so just don't want to take the chance on it getting pulled apart is why I'm asking.

[GT86]

Originally Posted by WBFAir

Just asking but do you think that is going to be strong enough?

Am going with a full size servo on the tail and am going to be using one of the Outrage Torq BL9188's on it which is going to basically be just about doubling my Torque, so just don't want to take the chance on it getting pulled apart is why I'm asking.

Should be fine, as long as you use good epoxy. That's how Align puts it together, all you'd be doing is shortening the tube and reassembling.

I put my full size servo in the frame, but there are a couple people on the forum who have it on the boom and that was the way they made their control rod.

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[Blayd]

Originally Posted by GT86

Should be fine, as long as you use good epoxy. That's how Align puts it together, all you'd be doing is shortening the tube and reassembling.

I put my full size servo in the frame, but there are a couple people on the forum who have it on the boom and that was the way they made their control rod.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

+1 Mine have held up very well using epoxy. JB weld will do as well. I just use a members method of shrink wrapping the ends as well to give me a little more piece of mind.. the one that hasn't been shrink wrapped, has been fine and went through a crash a few weeks ago. Strong as it ever was.

[WBFAir]

Hey guys

Yesterday I got the rod kit from Heliproz http://www.heliproz.com/prodinfo.asp?number=125860 and a brand new package of JB Weld and may be silly question but any tips on using and applying the JB Weld and doing the job?

Part of reason I ask is while I have certainly done my fair share of work with other products, years ago I tried using some JB Weld to mend a broken Cast Iron decorative thing at my house and I didn't seem to have much luck with it. Will admit it sat for years before I got a chance to do the work and out in the garage where it probably went through at least 5 seasons of below zero temps over the winter. But at any rate, when I went to use it and did as the instructions said of using equal parts, it really never got gluey but stayed almost like a paste. Never the less I let it sit for the time it said and then went to move it and it had done absolutely nothing to hold the parts together and just pretty much continued to stay like a pasty clay stuff that just crumbled to dust when I touched it.

So don't know if I just had a bad product from sitting so long, but kinda made me never think to use it again.

Second part is I have dry fitted up the barb ends into the rod and I'll say that while they don't just slide in, will say by the fit that 100% of the JB Weld is really whats going to be what holds this so just want to be sure I get it right.

So for using it, was thinking one to be sure before its use it is good and warm and is the same for its curing time, was also thinking of giving the barbs and the inside of the tube a good scuffing and then cleaning with Acetone like it says in the instructions. Then was thinking for seeing what I could do to give the inside of the tube a light coating with a toothpick, then gobb a good amount on the barbs and slide it it and also don't twist it as I want the product to really stay filled in the barbs.

Then figure if there is any oozing from the top to just leave that aside from what might be on the threads and then let it sit for 24 hrs. Then maybe file or grind down what ever I might have to remove of any extra to get that threaded collar on.

Actually too just top things off, was thinking of using some regular epoxy on the inside of those collars once I go to thread them on, should be of some extra help.

Anyway, seems like a lot to discuss I know but given how importation this part is, last thing I want is this thing coming apart and given my experience with JB Weld, I'm kinda worried about using it.

Just to mention, I can tell the barb connection given the way it is, that JB is better to use as it will fill in and stay put better then regular epoxy? Also gather that if done right, will be stronger?

Thanks for any help.

[wanderer56]

Clean the inside of the tube and barb area on the fitting with alcohol or acetone and let dry throughly.
Get some fresh JB Weld.
Use plenty of JBW.
Hold the fitting in position for several minutes so the fitting doesn't try to "back out" on you. Sometimes the chemical reaction can cause the fitting to come out of place while curing. This happens more often with blind holes.
Wipe away the squeeze out asap so it doesn't start to stick to places where you don't want it.
Let it set 24hrs before use or threading linkage ends on.

That's all I've got.