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mCP X BL Blade Micro mCP X Brushless


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Old 03-01-2013, 02:57 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Default Blade mCP X BL Tips & Tricks - post em here!

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Originally Posted by dragnse7en View Post
What's the reason you're using thread locking compound on the dampers? That's what you got,right?
I think he means that when using the dampers you need threadlock on the feathering shaft screws because of the extra outward tension created by the dampers.
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Old 03-01-2013, 03:27 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gabeoravitz View Post
I think he means that when using the dampers you need threadlock on the feathering shaft screws because of the extra outward tension created by the dampers.
Ah, I see. Yeah, I always like to burn the old thread lock out with a cigarette lighter and re-apply new stuff because I use that green slime on the FS dampers in the hub.

Now I see where he's going with that
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Old 03-01-2013, 07:40 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by dragnse7en View Post
The Voltage Regulator stack gets pretty warm, if not downright hot when the heli is powered on. Be sure that the small antenna has enough clearance away from that chip on the board. Re-check the antenna's position after every crash and rebuild or overhaul.
Thought I'd best check mine. After 4 back-to-back flights my regulator as shown in the photo is not hot at all.
I have no idea why mine is different to others.
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:29 AM   #44 (permalink)
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I've been flying 3 packs back-to-back, and I'm well over 100 flights/ 6.66667 hrs on it. It's still running sweet as sin. Something strange though, or maybe it's just my imagination - all my 2nd packs make the bird sound and feel like it's got a tad higher head speed . . . . I'll have to record it I guess so that I feel better and I'm not going crazy
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:07 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Default Blade Tracking

I couldn't believe it, yet it happened to me on this bird.

Check the blade tracking on your bird, even after a light crash.

You'll notice it when the main blades cut through the air and make a "bark" or "fart" noise during heavy cyclic inputs.

The blade root is thick, so it will take time to get them tracking, but it's worth the work vs spending ten bucks on a new set
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Old 03-03-2013, 07:28 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Default Sticky req

Mods- please add a sticky to this!
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Old 03-04-2013, 08:11 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Default cooling

My solution for cooling hot just 0,5 g.






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Old 03-04-2013, 11:06 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Very "cool" mod What's that tool with the wooden handle? Also, any links for that heat sink to share?
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Old 03-04-2013, 12:28 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Default re: cooling

This is a vga ram heatsink example: http://www.czc.cz/arctic-vga-vr-heat...ga2gd075043u7f
A tool with wooden handle is razor saw cutting alu very easy.
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Old 03-04-2013, 12:37 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Thanks hoss. I thought it wasa razor saw, but wasn't too sure. I've got the Testor's razor saws, which look more like surgeon's bone cutting saws . . . .

Thanks for the link!
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Old 03-04-2013, 01:07 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Default Main Blade Balancing

I cannot take credit for this; it came from Steve at Horizon Hobby's tech support, and I'd like to share his helpful tip.

Steve suggests instead of balancing the main blades with tape, use a sanding block with some fine grade sandpaper (I'm using 3M's P320), and match the weight of the heavy blade by lightly sanding the entire length of the trailing edge, moving the blade from end to end on the block.



Sand the trailing edge with about 3-5 light and even swipes, and then re-check the balance to match them up as a good pair. This eliminates the need for tape, which can peel and spit off during flight - especially during a blade strike, which can ruin the tape and all the effort done balancing it that way. And, just like the true nature of engineering, it's not what you can add, but what you can take away

This works for both the high-performance blades and the Fast Flight main blades or any main blades that you can fit on this model.
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Last edited by dragnse7en; 03-04-2013 at 02:15 PM.. Reason: added context
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Old 03-04-2013, 02:13 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Another Example of a canopy made of the packaging they come with: Just cut it out carefully,Then apply masking take to the outside of the canopy (so spray paint won't bleed onto the outside) and apply the color spray paint you like to the inside of the canopy, let it dry and remove the tape from the outside. use primer and plastic bonding glue to attach the two sides of the conopy, let it dry. Test where the conopy mounts need to go, drill the holes and insert the grommets. You may want to glue the grommets on because they don't ever fit exactly perfect, glue them from the inside of the conopy. Now apply decals if you like. My first one came out a little sloppy, but you get better at it, my 2nd attempt was an acceptable replacemet. The flourescent paint makes it easier to track in the air, and if anyone is wondering I applied the paint to the main blades too, and also on one of the landing gears, and one of the tail booms.
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Old 03-04-2013, 06:28 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Default 0.1mm Shim Set Update

Update - I ordered more this month (at least ten sets), and I will update the quantity and availability of these as they come in.

Stay tuned!
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Old 03-04-2013, 07:41 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Default Stock Skid reinforcement tip

Just as usual, to "naturally" stiffen up the integrity of the stock skids, take them off the model, and boil them in a pot of water, for no more than 8 minutes.

Strain, let cool, and dry on a dry paper towel.

Best re-installed with Shoe Goo upon re-installation in the model. It might help out the back pin issue for a bit, and it'll stop the annoying flex during takeoff w/ the collective in the minus . . . . yet I still ask Blade to make some of their parts out of CRP (carbon reinforced plastic), but I will digress
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Old 03-06-2013, 07:02 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Default TX Modes and how to swap on a DX6i

Here's a good write up on swapping it on a DX6i
http://www.gulfcoastrc.net/Forums/ta...s/Default.aspx

DX7 can't be swapped by the user

DX7S and DX8 can be swapped, it's in the manual appendix section

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Old 03-06-2013, 09:29 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoverfun View Post
I have some heat sink tape, will that work on the fet?
OK....my heat sinks came in today. Oops...they did not come with any tape. Now what?
Don't think I want to reorder from Hong Kong just to get tape. Any ideas?



Should I use a past like this stuff?
http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appi...ins_asepxy.pdf
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:00 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by whodothevoodoo View Post
OK....my heat sinks came in today. Oops...they did not come with any tape. Now what?
Don't think I want to reorder from Hong Kong just to get tape. Any ideas?



Should I use a past like this stuff?
http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appi...ins_asepxy.pdf
Damint - I told you to buy those 0.5mm heat transfer tapes!!!!

Eh, que sura sura . . . ..

Got Shoe Goo? it might work or not . . ..

I know they fit hoss - work it up!

I got your back though - I ordered mine w/ the thermal tape


Stay tuned hoss!
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:50 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Ahhhh....what can I say. I'm spoiled by BNF. Wadayamean it don't come with the tape. I'll call around tomorrow and see what I can find locally. I'm really getting excited cause it's starting to warm up here in SW MI. By next week we could be nearly snow free. In fact Friday might be 40* F with 5 mph winds. I may have to take the BL out for it's first outdoor maiden.
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:42 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Default AK-TT12-80

Alternatively, you can use the: http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?t...del=AK-TT12-80
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:09 AM   #60 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petsild View Post
Good deal!
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