DJI NAZA H Nodding Forward/Backward

[Mapoff]

I like flying the heli, but its a very difficult aerial platform. It has a few advantages. The danger factor is definitely up there. Without getting off topic, I moved the ball links in and tried fbl this morning with 20mph winds and felt good. Popping all over the place with 710 wide blades

[Valkman]

Good stuff. I had 690 semi and the sound was awesome. I presume you looked at the last video I did with the pictures I took at the end of it. If you zoom in you can see a girl pushing a pram with her hand up at her eyes looking at the heli. I beleive the whole town heard it! Another one I did of another town if you zoom in you can see a guy with his lawn mower stopped looking up. He could here it over the lawn mower. I do indeed miss that sound.

[Khosravi]

Here's a quick video of mine in GPS Hold. Halfway through the video I use my non-filming hand to descend slightly and yaw to the right, but you can see how well it holds.
This is with Spinblades 710mm semi-symmetrical.

-Chris

Naza H GPS Hold (0 min 41 sec)

[Mapoff]

Just to be clear, winds were gusting at 30mph this morning during a test. I only did manual. Then at lunch it was about 20mph gusts and manual was not as jumpy. The. Switched to atti mode. I still had nodding back and forth. Left right seemed pretty good. Should I limit swash angle? Decrease front/back autopilot gain? Decrease or increase FBL gains?

I feel like with the ball links in I feel closer to getting it right. I don't know what that measure normal page does. I'm setting to 6.5*, and I've tried 6. I don't know what happens if I go lower or higher. If I know the symptoms of these settings it would help. I guess I'll adjust only one thing at a time.

Do you like those 710 blades? I'd like to be able to handle some wind. I guess there isn't anything that will be smooth in 20mph winds. A brushless gimbal would probably make a huge difference.

[Khosravi]

Originally Posted by Mapoff

Just to be clear, winds were gusting at 30mph this morning during a test. I only did manual. Then at lunch it was about 20mph gusts and manual was not as jumpy. The. Switched to atti mode. I still had nodding back and forth. Left right seemed pretty good. Should I limit swash angle? Decrease front/back autopilot gain? Decrease or increase FBL gains?

I feel like with the ball links in I feel closer to getting it right. I don't know what that measure normal page does. I'm setting to 6.5*, and I've tried 6. I don't know what happens if I go lower or higher. If I know the symptoms of these settings it would help. I guess I'll adjust only one thing at a time.

Do you like those 710 blades? I'd like to be able to handle some wind. I guess there isn't anything that will be smooth in 20mph winds. A brushless gimbal would probably make a huge difference.

I'm pretty sure the normal/measure page is for setting up the maximum deflection the naza is allowed to give to keep level. Naza Assistant seems to claim 6.5 degrees is the magic number for this.

Yes the 710 blades are nice. Tons of lift at low head speeds.
-Chris

[Mapoff]

I've reached the end of my rope for now. No go no matter what settings I use, it just doesn't work. I'm almost thinking its just defective.

I did notice when I picked flybar in the setup, and then atti mode after, the swash barely moves. When flybarless, and then atti mode, the swash is quick and stays level as I move the heli around with my hands. I don't know why when a flybar is selected that atti would barely move the swash, but flybarless would really move. Its almost like the swash is going too far. There seems to be some delay also which looks like it would make it rock.

Now the setup tells you to put the blades above the tail boom then measure pitch on the blade over the boom. I'm actually getting -6.5. My swash goes left on that screen when I select measure and I'm looking from behind. I can't get a positive pitch while looking from behind. I have -6.5* looking behind. All of my servo directions are correct, but it goes left when I pick measure, and the instructions show it going right to produce that +6.5

[Mapoff]

Can you guys connect USB to your naza h, go to the tools section in the assistant, and physically rock the heli back and forth and tell me if you see gyroscope and accellarometer numbers moving. My accellarometer numbers don't change at all.

I think it's broke.

[Khosravi]

My numbers move when I tilt my heli. Maybe you have a faulty unit!

[Mapoff]

Your accellarometer numbers move too? Crap! Mine must be messed up. I notified DJI about it. I wonder how fast they will reply?

[Mapoff]

My accelarometer numbers move but never higher than 1. I do realize they should go up only while there are "g's" being pulled. The gyroscope numbers go way up to 50.

[Mapoff]

Chris

What kind of numbers do you see for accellarometer?

[Khosravi]

I'll need to check when I get home. Been super busy this week with midterm exams and lab reports. I should have time this evening to check for you.

-Chris

[Khosravi]

So sorry it took me so long to reply.
When my heli is sitting on flat ground:
Accelerometer:
X:0.0
Y:0.0
Z:-1.0 (1 G - 1XGravity)

If I roll my heli on to its side, X stays at 0, Y goes to -1, and Z stays at -1

Gyro data hangs around 0 when sitting on the ground, but when I move the heli around it jumps around (higher than 1 - sometimes got 20) but settles back down to 0 when you stop moving the heli - even if you stop it on its side.

Hope this helps,
-Chris

[Mapoff]

I figured out the accell was a measurement of "g's". I decided to set an offset for Z axis. The tailboom seems to be my center of gravity as well as the main shaft. The IMU is higher than the tailboom by a very small amount. Everything in the manual and software says to leave it at 0 if I am scale flying. Well I picked -2. It flew almost perfectly. There is a teeny tiny bit of slow wobble front to back. I think I just have settings to play with. I was able to take it up and trust it. Last week, same test with 0 on z axis, and it was a bucking bronco that looked incredibly dangerous. I think I have it pegged.

More testing to come. I say this because I had to "calibrate" the IMU because even the Flybar started rocking and only the calibration on the IMU was done. I just do it every time now when I make big changes.

[Stumblebee]

Originally Posted by Mapoff

I notified DJI about it. I wonder how fast they will reply?

You will probably be a grandfather collecting your pension before you get a reply from DJI about ANYTHING. They are legendary for being the GREAT NON-COMMUNICATORS. I think they figure if they never communicate, all problems will just "go away"... POOF!

[Mapoff]

I've learned a crap ton. I'm available to help for non defective stuff. I've learned enough to share setup help

[Mapoff]

So.....My aerials were used in a feature film recently. When they said they would use me I rushed to nail down any problems. I tried the FBL head again and was able to nail it down really well. I still seem to get more nodding issues when its a slight breeze or more. My heli is a trex and I cut off the receiver/battery tray up to where the gyro location is. Doing that has made the gryo location drop down some because there is no support. I'm sure that is part of my problem. Right now in manual when i pitch forward just a little, it seems to over shoot some. My flying in atti non gps seems to be pretty solid, as well as it is in manual. When I switch on gps I get a slight rocking. It somewhat jerks forward, then eases back, then jerks forward, then eases back. Its incredibly weird. Its only a recent thing.

My only other issue is fbl even in manual seems to balloon really bad in wind. 10mph+. The 800 blades are pretty wide. Today there were gusts of 30-40mph and I tried my flybar head. It held better in gps than me in manual. It was barely moving.

Any thoughts on improving my two things?

[Khosravi]

I would verify that your cyclic ranges match exactly what the Naza Assistant asks for (6.5 degree I think). This 6.5 degrees is a known variable that the Naza stores and gives servo outputs based on it. It basically matches the pwm servo pulse width to degrees of cyclic movement. My problem was that I didn't take this 6.5 degrees seriously in the beginning, I assumed 8 degrees or so would be fine enough. So when I was flying, and it needed to make a 6.5 degree cyclic correction, it really gave the 8 degrees. There was a pwm/degree mismatch.

As soon as I limited my cyclic throws, I was able to move my ATTI gains up to 100-120 and all was rock solid

[Mapoff]

It is definitely 6.5 on the dot. I wonder how much it matters that my Naza is tilted down 1* in the front vs the back? I think that is what is messing up my GPS ATTI mode, but manual shouldn't be a problem.

Manual does good but it's just not as locked in as I would expect. It overshoots a little. I thought about trying to move that cyclic one number less and test until I notice a diff