Is it me, or is the Hitec HG5000 Gyro crap?

[Pulento]

Originally Posted by TMoore

You shouldn't use any subtrim at all.

TM

And how do you get 90 degrees on the horn ?

BTW do you have a HG-5000 or LTG-2100 ? Maybe there are subtle differences on software.

Today I changed headspeed and got drift. Have read that if you got lock on some HS and change it latter you will drift

Thanks guys.

[TMoore]

The servo spline is asymmetrical so you can rotate the arm every 90 degrees and see the position index.

No subtrim is required.

TM

[Aussieheli]

Have just setup a HG500 and packaged servo on my M-Titan, with Align BEC (6Volts).

Works really well, love the combo.

I have a step down, but have read of other using it at 6Volts with no problems.

Anyone got any info on if you can run it at 6Volts?? What if any damage could occur (book says its fine to 5.5v - 6V is only 10% more??)

It's easy enough to put the stepdown in, but do I need too??

[Aussieheli]

Got a reply from Hitec today that 6Volts os fine for the gyro. They didn't stipulate if that is ok for the rudder servo, so I'm clarifying that at the moment.

[Aussieheli]

Got a another reply from Hitec today - no problems running the servo at 6volts either.

Red hot!

[TMoore]

Originally Posted by Aussieheli

Got a another reply from Hitec today - no problems running the servo at 6volts either.

Red hot!

Way to go. That's information we can use.

TM

[smarks]

Originally Posted by TMoore

The servo spline is asymmetrical so you can rotate the arm every 90 degrees and see the position index.

No subtrim is required.

TM

I was wondering if you could explain this in more detail. I am trying to setup my 5000 and I can't get the servo arm exactly 90 degress to the linkage because of the spline not lining up correctly. How can you do this without subtrim? Your comment on the spline being asymmetrical doesn't make sense to me. When I put the arm on the servo when the servo is at center, the arm will not be 90 to the linkage. What am I missing?

[Pinecone]

Take a 4 arm servo horn. As you rotate to each arm, you will find they line up slightly differently. So you use the arm that is closest to 90 and cut the others off.

If you try more than one arm, you will find they are slightly different angles.

[smarks]

That makes sense now. Thanks.

[Lymph]

Is the tail wagging after a piro a common issue with the HG5000? Im looking at getting the combo with that gyro and the tail servo.

Anything else I should know before getting one?

[smarks]

I don't have the tail wag problem. I like the gyro, servo combo. I am still learning 3D maneuvers however. I can do loops, rolls, flips, inverted flight and it is working great for me so far. The only thing I would agree with that I have been hearing about this gyro is that the piro rate is not ballistic. It is plenty fast for me maxed out, but I can't get it to piro any faster. I think some of it has to do with the Mini Titan I am flying, the tail blades just won't throw far enough to make it piro any faster.

[blahblah9]

anybody ever had any probs with the tail letting go and doing a 180 if theirs to much vibration? also the tail drifts to the left

[kjmdes]

Some earlier production units apparently had a problem with the PCB knocking around inside the case. This caused some unpredictable lose of control.

Mine has worked well through about half a dozen predictable crashes

Cheers,
Kevin

[darkfa8]

I had this gyro installed in a good condition Mini Titan. It was a real bear to get the tail to lock in solidly. I started by following the latest instructions (http://www.hitecrcd.com/product_file...mbo_manual.pdf) and then fought back and forth with the tail pushrod to get it to not drift in Rate mode. I used the supplied tap, did the stretch trick and was using the combo tail servo.

I got it to the point where it mostly held the same heading in rate mode, but it would randomly drift one way, then the other. I tried fiddling with how far the link as out on the servo arm. This helped slightly.

In piro manuevers and tic-tocs the tail just wouldn't hold strongly. I fiddled with the gain, pushing it upto 100% with nary a gain induced wag.

In talking with Shawn Spiker of Hitec I found that he has been running this gyro with a HS6965 servo in a T600N with good success.

I mounted the servo on the factory black tape up front on the servo frame and got it all together in a EVO 50. In testing I found the same issues I had with the Mini Titan. Random drifting in Rate Mode and Tail Lock just wasn't solid.

I tried inserting some ensolite sound dampening foam into the case of the gyro under the PCB. The PCB wasn't secured in the case other then a press fit. The foam I stuck in there seemed to help, particularly with Rate Mode holding a constant heading. I also tried doubling up the factory tape, results weren't much better.

At this point I don't have a heli anymore, but still have the gyro and servo on stand-by for another project. I'm thinking that maybe this gyro needs better vibration isolation. I may try doubling up some 3M red tape and/or using a metal plate similar to the GY611 or Spartan gyro to dampen vibration.

I have had high hopes for this gyro and have really wanted to have it work as well if not better then my 401, but so far that result has been evading me.

[kjmdes]

The one constant with this gyro is that it appears to be inconsistant from unit to unit.
I actually lucked out and had a solid experience out of the box. Mine came with the 5083MG also, and it was like a rock on my 450 SE V2.

I've now seen several setup threads that vary on the sequence and particulars. Very confusing. I figure Hitec should nip this in the bud by offering some supplimental direction.

I wish I could offer a quick fix, but all I've found is that I typically am running very low gain in both modes. Ball is fit at 10mm from center on the arm. I always run a CF rod, as I've found the steel rod is a problem if you don't use two control guides.

Cheers,
Kevin

[dbatman]

has any body tried to re-calibrate ?
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=103918

Mine (Hitech 5000) drifted until I did this. Now is locked solid.

[darkfa8]

I was not aware of the recalibration method. I will try that when I go to install it in another model and see how that and the other adjustments work out.

[hseofholy]

i'm bying a 60 raptor do you thing the hitec gyro will be ok for that size heli ty mike

[nwcudaman]

Yes, I have a LT 2100T and this Hitech. They can both do this which is one reason I bought this gyro. It's pretty simple to do. In a nut shell

Hold button on gyro, plug in heli. lights come on let off button and don't touch. The lights start slowly flashing from left to right and then speed up. At some point later, they are all flashing fast at the same time. Un plug heli and your done.

After a crash with my blade 400 I was never able to get my tail locked in no matter what in HH mode. Fought with this for a week. Then learned about this calibration thing. Did that and all problems went away and she is rock solid now. I've now got it on one of my Trex 450 SE V2's and it's doing everything I ask. My hitech I just got and am in the process of getting it dialed in. Running my gain at 100% and the tail is still a bit sloppy on me. I'm going to try it again today. My LT 2100 is set at 67% and rock solid. They are no doubt the same gyro though.

[nwcudaman]

Well, That didn't go well. I guess I'm having problems with this Hitech gyro. I've now gone through the set up 3 times and the gain still needs to be at full 100% and the tail is still not rock solid. It's ok for flying around nice, but it's still not able to hold it doing mild 3D. I've tried upping the headspeed as well. That helped some, but it's still acting like it needs more gain that I'm not able to give it. Not sure what the next thing is to try.