raptor 90

[keithgr148]

hi guys i am moving to a raptor 90 standered from a raptor 50 titan and i would like to from all you guys that have 90 's what upgrades are needed to make a raptor 90 standered to an SE ?? and also what's the best servo's on the market right now ! I was thinking of useing JR 4/8103 and the futaba 611 gyro and tail servo combow . the engine I am going to use is the OS 91 ! what mufler shounld I get for the best 3D power !

[Badger50]

Hi Keithgr148 welcome to the freak zone. I by far am not the most knowledgable dude on here, so I will just tell you what I have done. Instead of gearing you Rap 90 standard to the SE, I would lean more to the 90 3D. in essence all 3 kits are pretty much the same, except for the carbon frames and pitch arm contol on the SE. Here is what I have done to my 90 3D to make it one sweet flying machine

1) Elevated RC tail case http://www.heliproz.com/prodinfo.asp?number=254011
2) Kasama Head http://www.grandrc.com/inc/sdetail/128609
3) Jr 8717 on cyclic and elevator, Futaba 9351 on collective, 9250 on throttle, and 611 gyro
4) Carbon tail boom
5) OS 91 SZH with Hatori 18 pipe, although the YS 91 SR and Hatori 19 pipe is a great choice as well.
6) Futaba 12FGH fasst set up
7) Duralite 7.4 Li-ion battery with a 5.4 vovt regulator.

I personally don't run a governor, to me I like to keep things as simple as possible, however when you get very proficient at 3D flying then you might want to. Other than that, its all stock on everything else. I will also tell you that you don't even need to do all that to make your raptor 90 standard fly sweet and true. its like anything else in this hobby, if you take the time to make sure all your parts fit smooth and mesh well, a stock Raptor will fly just fine. Hopefully guys like Vandelscrow, and Lim Lerch, and Barracudahocky, who visit this site often, will give you some more great advice as they are all very knowledgable and helpful. If your just starting out flying 90's I would get comfortable with the stock setup before adding all the bling. I can tell you from experience that it far cheaper to replace standard raptor parts as opposed to the add on stuff. Other than that, good luck with your new 90 and keep us posted on how you are doing.

[keithgr148]

thanks Mike for the help and the tips ! so if i change the side frame too CF and the tail boom and boom suports and the pitch arm this will make the raptor standered to 3D heli ! oh and the nice kasama head and tail assembly too ! I have the nice new JR 9303 2.4 radio works sweet , guestion why use a li -ion battery over a mah ?

[Badger50]

Sorry if I was'nt exactly clear Keith. The CF frames, boom, boom supports and the collective pitch arm, are all standard SE parts, except maybe for the boom. The 90 3D kit, which is what I have, is the same basic set up as the standard Raptor 90 kit, ie: metal frames, tail boom, boom supports, rotor head etc. The main differences between the 90 3D kit and the standard kit are: 90 3D has no rear horizontal tail fin, has a much more adjustable flybar see saw and bell hiller settings, and lighter flybar paddles. The add ons I told you about are after market things that you can do to make the heli even more responsive to cyclic imputs, as in the use of the Kasama head. The Elevated RC tailcase allows you to see the dreaded "PIN" on the tail rotor shaft and gives a little more slider pitch travel. You by no means "HAVE" to use these add ons to make the 90 3D an excellent responsive machine. Now with all of that said, you can easily convert the standard kit to the 3D kit by removing the horizontal tail fin and use the boom grip with your standard boom supports http://www.heliproz.com/searchprods.asp. Change the see saw: http://www.heliproz.com/prodinfo.asp?number=134610 and the mixing levers: http://www.heliproz.com/prodinfo.asp?number=134601 and control arms http://www.heliproz.com/prodinfo.asp?number=134616 and the head dampers: http://www.heliproz.com/prodinfo.asp?number=134619 add the 30 gram flybar paddles http://www.heliproz.com/searchprods.asp which are blue. Then make sure you use the 8:27 gear ratio by using the 11 tooth pinion and the 91 tooth main spur gear, which the standard 90 kit may already use, but I'm not sure. That in essence will give you the standard Raptor 90 3D kit I hope I made that as clear as mud, ( Sorry about the southern Missouri humor As far as using the Li-ion battery over the NIHM or NICAD, I can get more flight time with the same ammount of weight, or even a little less, which is why most of us use that or the Lipo batteries, but its not neccessary. I hope this helped out, and I'm sure some of the other guys will help you as well. See Ya

[Ah Clem]

Though our setups differ somewhat, I agree with Mike. If you have not purchased the 90 SE or standard Raptor 90, I would go with the 903D, for all the reasons he mentioned.

If you already have the SE or Standard 90, make sure that you put the upgraded tail hub on (part # PV0499) which Jim Lerch mentioned in a different thread. Also, you might do a seach regarding taking additonal steps to keep the tail shaft drive pins in the gears (both front and back). Some use heat shrink, I used brass tubing (again, as Jim Lerch did).

It does not matter if the side frames are metal or CF, the head is the thing that counts.

The 3D is an excellent combination of smooth and agressive.

My set up (hopefully you will get lots of opinions on set ups):

8717's on cyclic and collective.
JR 12X w/JR1221 reciever.
The same Duralite set-up that Mike mentioned (the high current one).
Futaba 611 gyro with BLS 251 on the tail.
Futaba 9254 on throttle.
CY ATG governor (set it and forget it-it takes care of the rotor speed brilliantly).
OS .91 pumped w/Hatori pipe.

[wichmanj]

what size brass tubing are you using on the pins and how do you keep it on?

[Ah Clem]

Forgive me, I do not recall what sized tubing. I just took the offending nylon gears to the hobby shop and did test fitting. It did take two sizes, if I remember correctly.

I scuffed and cleaned both the brass tubing and the nylon gears, then used JB Weld epoxy to hold it on.

Please note there are pins in the gears on both the front and back gearboxes.


This was one of the most useful pieces on information that I have picked up from the forums.

[keithgr148]

thanks guys for all you help ! . I just got a upgraded head kasama head and rear tail gear set up and the push pull from the 90Se kit an OS 91 sz and a hatori SB 18 pipe also . I also have the futaba 611 gyro and tail servo combo ! what are the best servo's to go with ? I was thinking od getting the JR 8311 or the futaba 9351 ??? . I will look into the tail shaft pins . I have not taken 90 standerd out of the box yet ! just waitting to get all the goodies ! is there a web site that hads picture on how to do the pins ? and any other upgrades that I should do it wounld be a big help thanks again guys keith

[Badger50]

Hey Kieth, sounds like your all ready to go with your build. Here are a couple ot threads for you to look over that may help you with your Kasama head and your tail case
This one gives you good info on the tail pully pin, go to last page:
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=78351

This one on the Kasama head build, go to last page:
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=75618

As far as the servos go, all the ones you mentioned will work just fine on cyclic and collective. If you want wicked fast cyclic response, go with the JR 8717, they are fantastic at any voltage you want to run through them. Hope this helps, and good luck with the build :glasses2:

P.S. I believe the brass tubing used to hold the pins on are 1/2" diameter, as stated by Jim ( Jedi) Lerch.
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=93619

[keithgr148]

thanks Mike all these tip will go along way in building a way too kool raptor 90 .keith

[nellie7532]

Oh Oh i've built my raptor 90 but the only pin i could see was in the tail drive gear, there wasn't any on the toque tube front or rear. Is this a mod that every1 is doing & i've missed?

[Ah Clem]

If memory serves, there are three.

I will have to look at the instructions as to where the other two are. The torque tube uses small screws to keep it from slipping.

[Badger50]

You will see that the 2 bevel geaes have pins in them as well. They are for the tail drive transmition, and those need to be taken care of as well. Some people I have talked with just locktite the hell out of them, however that is a pain to remove, so use the method that has been previously described. Hope this helps