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TheBum · 05-09-2008, 10:08 AM

Yeah, I may just go there. I've been doing business with them for over 30 years, although not much in the last 20 years or so. It would be nice if they could get their online system into the 21st century, though.

jared_of_atlanta · 05-09-2008, 10:12 AM

Mine was reloading in IE too. I just hit the stop button and that seemed to work.

TheBum · 05-09-2008, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jared_of_atlanta

Mine was reloading in IE too. I just hit the stop button and that seemed to work.

I had tried that and it wasn't working, but I may have been hitting the button just as it changed from stop to reload. I tried again and it worked.

TheBum · 05-09-2008, 10:38 AM

On the subject of the RCD PIC programmer, would a USB-to-serial adapter likely provide sufficient voltage to run the circuit? I know RS-232 has pretty broad specs as to what voltages it can run at, anywhere from 5V to 15V.

DominicD · 05-09-2008, 11:30 AM

I tried that with my USB -> serial adapter and it didn't work. I believe somewhere it says that adapters arn't supported but some might work.

TheBum · 05-09-2008, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HFG

I tried that with my USB -> serial adapter and it didn't work. I believe somewhere it says that adapters arn't supported but some might work.

That's what I was afraid of. The adapters probably don't support low-level access to the signal lines. I guess if I want to build this tach, I'll have to either buy a proper programmer or try redesigning it with an Atmel controller. I'll have to dust off the EE part of my brain.

What would be an equivalent USB-programmable Atmel controller?

fireup · 05-09-2008, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HFG

I have moved over to C and atmel controllers. atmel are just as cheap and more powerful. And some of them can be programmed with USB.

I've switched over the Atmel chip as well for the most part. Much faster and easyer to get things up and running. Codevision C is also the reason I switched. One of the programmer I use works off the parallel port and just use a $.50 buffer chip.

DominicD · 05-09-2008, 01:01 PM

Fireup I use a mac so serial ports and parallel ports are out of the question. The atmel actually does need a real programmer to do a proper job. But you can cheat, some of the atmel controllers come with a bootloader. You program your code onto the atmel into its flash memory via the USB. The bootloader than runs your code from the flash memory.

HELINHAWAII · 05-09-2008, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheBum

Yeah, I may just go there. I've been doing business with them for over 30 years, although not much in the last 20 years or so. It would be nice if they could get their online system into the 21st century, though.

Exactly why I went with Newark...the Digikey website is cumbersome. Also, since the order was less than $25, they wanted a $5 handling fee. I'd rather spend the money on priority shipping!

falconea45 · 05-13-2008, 05:46 AM

Hi, this is a very interesting project. Are the pic chips available programmed from the designer.

mikef · 05-13-2008, 11:07 AM

You can send me your blank chip and I will program it for free if you cover all shipping costs. Just PM me when you get it and I will send you my address.

HELINHAWAII · 05-16-2008, 07:42 PM

Alright, need some help here please.

The 10K trimpot, does it get wired up at all three pins? I have the motor circuit complete but seems to only have variable throttle with the big pot. What have I done wrong?

fireup · 05-16-2008, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HELINHAWAII

Alright, need some help here please.

The 10K trimpot, does it get wired up at all three pins? I have the motor circuit complete but seems to only have variable throttle with the big pot. What have I done wrong?

Looks like for the 10 turn put, you need to use the middle and one of the outer terminal, the speed of the motor will determine which one of the outer two to use (clockwise, motor should increase in speed).

You are using the pots in "rheostat" mode so only need to use two terminals, but one of the terminal has to be the wiper, which is usually the middle pin.

HELINHAWAII · 05-16-2008, 08:03 PM

So it looks like it's wired ok? The problem I'm having is that I can't tune the top end RPM. The way I understood this to work is that you use the big pot to select your shutter speed and the trim pot to select you top end. So I'm trying to set the max rpm by turning the big pot up to max and then dcrease the max rpm with the trim pot...right? The trim pot is doing nothing to change rpm.

mikef · 05-16-2008, 08:13 PM

The trimpot only uses two pins. I should note that in the instructions. It looks like you have it connected correctly. If you set the 2.5k pot so the motor spins the fastest, the 10k should increase or decrease the top end speed depending on which way you turn it. Try hooking the trim pot up a different way. I used a ohm meter on my trim pot to make sure I hooked it up right. Those little blue pots sometimes have odd pin outs.

fireup · 05-16-2008, 08:15 PM

Because the trim put is 10K, you may have to turn it down quite a bit until you get about a 200 - 500 ohm range until it will do something.

mikef · 05-16-2008, 08:28 PM

I'll get my tach back for a short while so I can answer some of these questions better. To be honest, I have no idea where my 10k is set at the moment but I will check it out this weekend. Fireup has a good point, you may have to turn the pot way down but it seems like mine changed RPM the entire range. I will let you know.

HELINHAWAII · 05-16-2008, 08:39 PM

Ok found the problem...those f***ers sent me the wrong pot. Instead of 2.0K pot, they sent a 20K pot!

Is there any way to get this one to work...throw another resistor in line or something?

TheBum · 05-16-2008, 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fireup

You are using the pots in "rheostat" mode so only need to use two terminals, but one of the terminal has to be the wiper, which is usually the middle pin.

Also, it's a good idea to wire together the wiper and one of the ends. That will keep noise from entering the circuit through the open wire (which will no longer be open), although in this application it probably would matter.

GreenCello · 05-17-2008, 05:39 PM

Perhaps this is the wrong place and thread for this question, but here goes. I enjoy the build and set up of helis almost as much as flying. I have good mechanical skills(ex.-wired my house, build violins) but have zero knowledge of electronics. Does anyone have any suggestions for courses, books, etc. that would help me correct this personal deficit? I checked the local comm. college, but no luck.
Thanks,
Cliff

05-09-2008, 10:08 AM	#61 (permalink)
TheBum HF Support My HF Map location Join Date: Jul 2007	Yeah, I may just go there. I've been doing business with them for over 30 years, although not much in the last 20 years or so. It would be nice if they could get their online system into the 21st century, though. __________________ Alan (just call me "Bum"; no need to be so formal) HeliFreak Support Protos Max Evo 700 (Brain 2), Protos Max V2 770 (iKON 2), Synergy 516 (Brain 2), Oxy 2 (Falcon 12) Graupner MZ-32 Experience is something you gain only after you need it. I wouldn't mind social media so much if it didn't involve people.

05-09-2008, 11:30 AM	#65 (permalink)
DominicD The Capi My HF Map location Join Date: Oct 2006	I tried that with my USB -> serial adapter and it didn't work. I believe somewhere it says that adapters arn't supported but some might work. __________________ Spreading capibara awareness since 2006

05-09-2008, 01:01 PM	#68 (permalink)
DominicD The Capi My HF Map location Join Date: Oct 2006	Fireup I use a mac so serial ports and parallel ports are out of the question. The atmel actually does need a real programmer to do a proper job. But you can cheat, some of the atmel controllers come with a bootloader. You program your code onto the atmel into its flash memory via the USB. The bootloader than runs your code from the flash memory. __________________ Spreading capibara awareness since 2006

05-16-2008, 07:42 PM	#72 (permalink)
HELINHAWAII Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Apr 2007	Alright, need some help here please. The 10K trimpot, does it get wired up at all three pins? I have the motor circuit complete but seems to only have variable throttle with the big pot. What have I done wrong? Attached Thumbnails __________________ *Jesse* T700N FBL - V-Bar w/ 3DX Head T250 Super Pro - HS-5084MG Tail Servo X9303

05-16-2008, 08:03 PM	#74 (permalink)
HELINHAWAII Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Apr 2007	So it looks like it's wired ok? The problem I'm having is that I can't tune the top end RPM. The way I understood this to work is that you use the big pot to select your shutter speed and the trim pot to select you top end. So I'm trying to set the max rpm by turning the big pot up to max and then dcrease the max rpm with the trim pot...right? The trim pot is doing nothing to change rpm. __________________ *Jesse* T700N FBL - V-Bar w/ 3DX Head T250 Super Pro - HS-5084MG Tail Servo X9303

05-09-2008, 10:12 AM	#62 (permalink)
jared_of_atlanta Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Apr 2007	Mine was reloading in IE too. I just hit the stop button and that seemed to work.

05-09-2008, 10:38 AM	#64 (permalink)
TheBum HF Support My HF Map location Join Date: Jul 2007	On the subject of the RCD PIC programmer, would a USB-to-serial adapter likely provide sufficient voltage to run the circuit? I know RS-232 has pretty broad specs as to what voltages it can run at, anywhere from 5V to 15V.

05-13-2008, 05:46 AM	#70 (permalink)
falconea45 My HF Map location Join Date: May 2006	Hi, this is a very interesting project. Are the pic chips available programmed from the designer.

05-13-2008, 11:07 AM	#71 (permalink)
mikef Registered Users Join Date: Mar 2004	You can send me your blank chip and I will program it for free if you cover all shipping costs. Just PM me when you get it and I will send you my address.

05-16-2008, 08:13 PM	#75 (permalink)
mikef Registered Users Join Date: Mar 2004	The trimpot only uses two pins. I should note that in the instructions. It looks like you have it connected correctly. If you set the 2.5k pot so the motor spins the fastest, the 10k should increase or decrease the top end speed depending on which way you turn it. Try hooking the trim pot up a different way. I used a ohm meter on my trim pot to make sure I hooked it up right. Those little blue pots sometimes have odd pin outs.

05-16-2008, 08:15 PM	#76 (permalink)
fireup Team Taco CEO Join Date: Oct 2006	Because the trim put is 10K, you may have to turn it down quite a bit until you get about a 200 - 500 ohm range until it will do something. __________________ Kevin Don't Taco My Pack, Bro! , Why crash when you can POUND it!

05-16-2008, 08:28 PM	#77 (permalink)
mikef Registered Users Join Date: Mar 2004	I'll get my tach back for a short while so I can answer some of these questions better. To be honest, I have no idea where my 10k is set at the moment but I will check it out this weekend. Fireup has a good point, you may have to turn the pot way down but it seems like mine changed RPM the entire range. I will let you know.

05-16-2008, 08:39 PM	#78 (permalink)
HELINHAWAII Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Apr 2007	Ok found the problem...those f*ers sent me the wrong pot. Instead of 2.0K pot, they sent a 20K pot! Is there any way to get this one to work...throw another resistor in line or something? __________________ Jesse** T700N FBL - V-Bar w/ 3DX Head T250 Super Pro - HS-5084MG Tail Servo X9303

05-17-2008, 05:39 PM	#80 (permalink)
GreenCello Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Dec 2007	Perhaps this is the wrong place and thread for this question, but here goes. I enjoy the build and set up of helis almost as much as flying. I have good mechanical skills(ex.-wired my house, build violins) but have zero knowledge of electronics. Does anyone have any suggestions for courses, books, etc. that would help me correct this personal deficit? I checked the local comm. college, but no luck. Thanks, Cliff

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