Capi's 90 Hints and Tips Build Thread

[Nate Quan]

Tail vibes, not too major but there.

Anybody else having this issue? I am thinking our kits got the gears that were not "fixed version"

HFG-Might be why mine are all smooth and you got the gears that look "off"?

[DominicD]

Nate how tight of a fit is the gear onto the TT end ?

[Nate Quan]

pretty snug, whatcha thinkin?

[DominicD]

Yeah the old ones that were causing the vibes were pretty snug on the TT end caps.

[Nate Quan]

I have some spares that I ordered when I got the kit, I'll check 'em out and and give some feedback

[DominicD]

Send me 1

[Nate Quan]

PM sent

[DominicD]

No idea of the rear and front crown gears are the same, the only manual I have is the online one and it is full of part number errors.

[John Cook]

per Clyde at IRCHA the front and rear crown were not the same. At least that is my poor memory recall.

[Foxden]

Originally Posted by CoronaL

per Clyde at IRCHA the front and rear crown were not the same. At least that is my poor memory recall.

No, on the 90 they are the same, it's the 50 that are different.

Not sure why they list them as separate part numbers in the manual but they are interchangeable.

[John Cook]

ok my bad

[Charley Stephens]

Originally Posted by CoronaL

I was under the impression the long link was to set 0 collective and the short link was to set +/- range. At least on the 50 that is what Charlie was explaining to me.

On Tony's machine we had to adjust the short link quite a bit to get less negative pitch and equal + pitch, along with then resetting 0 pitch via the long rod.

That is correct, and if you have to make major changes to short link it will require you to reset Zero it then becomes a balancing act at that point of switching back and forth due to large adjustments. It is very hard to explain on paper other than note it in the manual the way it is. The rest is a learning curve....

[DominicD]

Ok that is good news, I will ask Nate to send me a spare gear because none of the rest of you love me

[Deftone45075]

Can I get on the spare gear list?

Hoping they have them in stock soon. I wound up using an align 700 TT since the only way the velocity tt end was going into that gear was with a vice.

[hidaven]

nice tool

Originally Posted by HFG

Ok folks, at first I hadn't planned to do a build thread as there are a vast number of photos of the 90 already out there floating around the internet so I figured who would want to see more. As soon as I opened the box I knew i had to do a build thread for this beast. I have added a few hints and tips along the way so I can maybe save you the time it took me to figure out. So ill shut up now and get the ball rolling.

Here is the fancy smancy box it comes in (you are truly a heli geek if you spend any amount of time just staring at the box).



Once you manage to tear yourself away from staring at the box long enough to open it you will find yet more boxes (thankfully they are just blank white, so I only spend 10min staring at them).



Under the boxes is a flatpack box that holds the frames.



The frames HAVE to be sanded, they are sharp and will cut wires, plus it gives you a chance to fondle the sexy frames without the wife/girlfriend giving you funny looks.



Surprise surprise the long box contains the boom other long bits.



The big box contains the large components of the heli as well as the canopy. The canopy comes wrapped in sheet foam and was defect free when it arrived. The canopy is the same type as the 50, looks great and should be pretty visible in flight. The other large components are packed like the 550 and 50 were, each sub-assembly is held in place on a sheet of plastic along with the required hardware to assemble it. Here are some photos of the 90 canopy beside the 50 for some size comparisons. First thing to note is the 90 isn't as crazy narrow as the 50 (ever notice the 50 disappears when flying directly at you)




Here is my first tip, shoegoo the back of the canopy where the grommets are pushed into place, this will prevent them from moving against the fiberglass and wearing out. I do this little trick on all my machines and the grommets last for 500+ flights.



The last box contains the reason why I felt the need to do a build thread. The packing of the main components of the heli are second to none, each piece is held in foam and the required hardware for the piece is stored in the hole just underneath it.







One of the first steps of building the kit has you snapping on the balls onto the flybar cage arms, I dunno about you but I couldn't do it by hand and none of my tools would work, but i found a new use for swash leveling tools



The head is the best part of this kit so let us take a second to just stare at it.



Remember NOT to set the setscrews on the spindle until after you have installed both grips. I followed the manual for the Advanced settings for the head positions but I have a feeling i will have to move the flybar cage arms out wider so i can run more cyclic



Here is a neat/simple trick for getting the flybar cage all square, put the bolts on loose, then force it down on the rim of a cup, then tighten up the bolts.



In a similar fashion you can set the tracking on the paddles.



Here is the first half of the frame assembled, LEAVE the main bearing blocks loose with no loctite, only tighten them up after you have both halves done and the mainshaft is in place. The mainshaft should be able to freely slide down all 3 bearings if they are aligned properly.



Here is me CAing the bearings to the TT, don't use anything but thin CA, or you will be spending some time cleaning bearings out.



The second half of the frame goes together basically the same. But here is one mod from the manual i feel is a MUST. I am not sure if the manual is unclear, or I am reading the manual wrong, or the manual I was using was out of date but it had the tabs mounted inside the frame. But with the servo tabs on the inside of the frame the only thing holding the servo to the heli is 2 tiny ass screws. So i mounted the tabs on the outside of the frame, it makes installing the servo a PITA but I think its a good idea to do it.



This is my first 90 build (I have setup many but never built them) so I don't know if these links are normal, but i found it a hell of a time getting them on. First step to getting them on is to bevel the edge of the link so you can just get the thing started



Next step was to hold the rod with some small vice grips and the link with a link tool, press HARDDDDDDDDDD while slowly rotating, that will get em started cleanly. To thread the link all the way onto the rod I just held the link tool and spun the vice grip around and around.



I had to rebuild my tail about 10-12 times at around 3am so I was less than happy, as Clyde and his PM box can attest to. When you mount the tail case to the boom you have an inner and outer bit. They are connected together with 4 bolts, and finally the outer bit pinches the boom. After getting the pitch slider assembly mostly build get the 4 bolts to secure the inner and outer bits started. There will be alittle leeway as the holes in the outer bit are a tiny bit larger than necessary to fit the bolts. Use this leeway to align the tail pitch slider and the pitch slider arm. Make sure the gap is dead even, unlike the gap difference shown in the image below.



This will resolve most of the issues I had with the tail. One other issue was there was some machining marks on the inside of the brass pitch slider, some quick work with some sandpaper fixes that easy enough. The last bit to getting a smooth tail is one I should have known better after building countless Outrage tail pitch assemblies. NEVER over tighten the two bolts that connect the tail pitch slider to the pitch slider arm. I did use red loctite on most of the tail pitch assembly BTW.



Yes that hole is cause I stripped the inner bit. You try rebuilding the tail 10+ times while pissed off The 3 other bolts and the pinch bolt are more than enough to hold the tail in place so i won't bother to replace it.

Next up is electronics wiring, even being an EE I cannot stand doing the wiring on a heli. This heli wasn't bad to wire, there is enough space to wire it up (the 50 was a PITA in this regard). The real problem is i run a 2S setup on Futaba so I have to run the Fromeco Kiwi, which requires me to run 4 wires to the kiwi then plug the kiwi into my servos. This is the result



The other side



Installed on the heli



And the other side



I had to heavily mangle up the front electronics tray to fit all the bits, but I am happy with how it all turned out.





I still have to find a good way to route my 2 antennas.

Ok, I do have 1 beef with this great kit. The kit seems to have lacked fuel tube grommets for the 2 holes in the frame. So I had to figure something out. Here is what I came up with after desperately searching my parts box for something that would work.









In case you are wondering where that line goes



And the rest of the fuel routing



The last little bit for today is how to secure that 3rd bearing block. Charley was thoughtful enough to include 4 little holes just below the block to provide you with some leverage.



Alrighty, that is as far as I have gotten. I might take some more photos, but lets face it the heli is done mechanically, but if I come across any more tips I will post them here.

[dobje]

My gear on the end of the TT are also very snug, I will try it first. Also the tail slider not verry smooth after a lot of grinding (with very fine sanding paper). When I turn the shaft sometimes it's verry smooth and then less maybe it's not round ?. I will see what is hapening on the maiden and get some replacement parts for it.

Maybe the gear will be better after a couple of flights.

[mikejr718]

I recently replaced the tail slider on my v50. After struggling for an hour on the bench to get is smooth I got it kinda smooth and decided to just fly it and see what happened. After 2 flights it is smooth as glass. I even took it back apart after flying it and re-assembled it to repack thrust bearings and check other things in the tail. When I put it back together it went well and was smooth on the first try. Just needs to wear in I think.

[DominicD]

The key to ALL the outrage tails is to not ham fist down the 2 bolts that connect the pitch slider arm to the actual pitch slider. When you ham fist the bolts it deforms the arm which causes it to pinch down on the slider.

[DominicD]

OK, back by not so popular demand, the cyclic pitch tutorial. I have to confess this whole thing was staged, I had already done the setup when I did the collective setup tutorial. First things first, you have to have done the whole collective setup FIRST. Why do you ask does the collective have to be setup first ? Well because I said so !! that and you have to have the short and long links setup properly first (will be clear later). First step is to go midstick, so the collective pitch is 0 degrees so we do not get any interactions of cyclic and collective inputs, remember to have the flybar locked down.



Make sure your blades are 90 degrees to the boom, this will allow us to measure the elevator pitch range (gyroscopic magic tells us every input is 90 degrees to the action) without any interaction with the aileron pitch inputs.



Hold the cyclic stick ALL the way down and measure the cyclic pitch range.



Repeat the same procedure while holding the cyclic stick all the way up.



This is your elevator cyclic pitch range. Adjust the elevator swash mix value to obtain your desired cyclic range. Since the collective range is even the cyclic pitch range should also be even, if you find this is not the case then the only reason (assuming you haven't done anything funky with your radio) can be the washout arms. You will have to adjust the links running from the washout arms to the cage until the cyclic range is even. Don't drive youself nuts, the range doesn't have to be PERFECTLY even.



Now, turn the blades so they are parallel to the boom, this will allow us to test the aileron cyclic pitch range. This time you will move the sticks all the way to the left and right.



You might find the aileron cyclic pitch range is different than the elevator cyclic pitch range, you have to adjust the swash mix values for the aileron to match the elevator pitch range. You want the pitch range values to be the same, this almost always means the numbers in the swash menu to not match.



Now that your cyclic range is even and set to the pitch range you want you HAVE to check for binding. On almost all Outrage heads this is the place you will find the cyclic binds first.



If you are finding you are getting binding and you haven't reached your desired cyclic pitch range you will have to move the flybar cage arms out alittle wider. I ended up with about +-8.5 degrees with the middle hole. The final way to check for binding is to spin the head by hand while moving the sticks to all the corners, if your head binds anywhere the head will kick or slow down abnormally.



At this point I still have to setup my gov, replace my switch (don't ask), and wait for the bevel gear replacement. I am getting so close !

[dunkonu23]

Great job, Capi... That's gonna answer a lot of questions for a lot of people!

So, on the .90, the washout arms are parallel with each other at 50in/out?

Scott