MSH Protos Build Videos!

[simmer]

I "think" while loose is best, this one isnt as critical as you might think and it should loosen up after some air time. I felt the head on my hobbyshops protos (dealer) and I was surprised how tight it was. Looked like it would be a BIG issue comparing that to a 450 I have and my bad experience with it. But he assured me it was a non issue.

I tend to put a lot of faith in those with tons of experience so while the links should be really lose as we all know they should be, I am hoping its good enough when the idividual links are set correctly, nothing obviously tight moving all parts. If its a little restrictive, I am "hoping" it will still perform normally, and when I complete mine, Ill know for sure.

I mean his were so tight I thought man this thing just wont fly right

[Finless]

Mine is not near as free as a Trex450.... It will not "fall" on its own but I feel it is free enough.

Bob

[brettboz]

Thanks guys for the input. I think mine is probably about right then, it is loose but not that it will fall on its own as is the case of my 400.

Im worried that in my messing about I have over loosened one of the ball joints so may change that, also worried I undied the CA in the joint holding the blade grips, so may have to take that apart again and re-CA it.

[BoysToys]

I have just subscribed to this thread and am seriously thinking of building a Protos with my Christmas money. For those already flying the Protos, how is the stock motor? I am wondering if I should purchase the kit with the stock motor or get the kit with no motor and build it right away using a Scorpion HK-3026 880kv. Has anyone tried both and was there that big of a difference? With either motor I will likely use an Align 75A esc I have in my tool box. The motor is the only thing I am unsure of right now. I have decided to use S9650s (Unless I can find a deal on some JR DS 3517) on the swash and a JR 7703d/3500g setup on the tail.

I am very interested in seeing how this lightweight heli performs compaired to my current T-Rex 500. My 500 weighs in at 1845g ready to fly with an Outrage 6S 25C 2500mah lipo. I hear that you can get the Protos in the air around 1550g or so with the same pack. At that light of weight, it should be a rocket! What are your all up weights running? Thanks for the help.

Hopefully all of Bob's videos will be done by the time I order my kit.

[simmer]

dont wait on the videos get started now! The stock motor is soo inexpensive and has been reviewed to be a solid performer there is no reason to upgrade initially. I say get the motor and run it for a while and see for yourself how you like it.

This heli is well designed and the motor was designed around these specs. Really cant go wrong with this and it elimitates the guess work of what pinion/ battery to run.

[CatchmyCorsair]

Look around at different dealers. I got the kit with motor for about $5 more. The stock motor is powerful but runs really hot. (doesn't harm the motor)

I think someone in the Protos forum is running that Kv Scorpion. (BigE?)

[BoysToys]

Originally Posted by simmer

dont wait on the videos get started now!

I am not waiting on the videos to get started. I am waiting for Christmas. I could not make up my mind what I wanted so my wife is just going to give me cash. I plan on ordering one a day or two after Christmas. Besides I am not in all that big of a hurry. I still have my three T-Rexs to fly.

Originally Posted by simmer

The stock motor is soo inexpensive and has been reviewed to be a solid performer there is no reason to upgrade initially. I say get the motor and run it for a while and see for yourself how you like it.

This heli is well designed and the motor was designed around these specs. Really cant go wrong with this and it elimitates the guess work of what pinion/ battery to run.

Thanks for the info. I will just plan on getting the kit with the stock motor and running it that way for a while.

Does anyone know where the best prices are on the kits? I see Readyheli and RCDumbThumbs have it for $325. Is there a better deal out there?

Thanks,
Brandon

[expertrcpilot]

I made a call to amain hobbies, and after dome discussion they dropped they're pricing down to $309 with motor.

Sorry Bob, not tryin to steer the thread off course
Thanx a ton for the vids, beautious!

[JMoore12]

Originally Posted by BoysToys

I am not waiting on the videos to get started. I am waiting for Christmas. I could not make up my mind what I wanted so my wife is just going to give me cash. I plan on ordering one a day or two after Christmas. Besides I am not in all that big of a hurry. I still have my three T-Rexs to fly.



Thanks for the info. I will just plan on getting the kit with the stock motor and running it that way for a while.

Does anyone know where the best prices are on the kits? I see Readyheli and RCDumbThumbs have it for $325. Is there a better deal out there?

Thanks,
Brandon

Got mine from RH for 325 shipped. Probably about standard after you pay shipping on the lower priced retailers.

[rcmarty]

My t500 was 1800g , protos comes in at 1600.

I think the stock motor has plenty of power. You might be thinking a stock motor is just something that comes with the kit , this one does actually work. I'm told it runs hot in the summer but still puts down good power.

My protos is setup for 13-14 pitch and 10 cyclic, no paddle weights, gueesing 2700 hs (will tach next time)
My t500 had 13 pitch , 8 cyclic , 100%hs (3000ish) , stock paddles

This thing is quiet , real quiet. Most noise it makes is when the motor kicks over. A bit too quiet for my first flight though .. lol .. i didn't hear when the battery was dumping on me , ended up doing a good auto but on the edge of the field , set down nice except for a weed that got would around the head broke up a few parts and links). This thing feels great in the air , a bit quick though (if that's what you want) but that can be toned down with a drop in hs. 2200-2400 is a nice range for many , 2700-2800 and no weights will get your attention.

My big complaint with the t500 was the roll/flip rate , collective good by it'self but combined with cyclic the 500 mellows out fast. I also have have a 600n v-bar(13/13) and a 700n with stock paddles(12/9-10). Not sure what your doing with your 500 but this might make sense to you.

Rolls and flips on the protos are great , the collective seems a bit soft (compared to the t500) but i can dial that into my liking with a bit of + expo. A little pitch pump setting on the v-bar software when i convert will take care of that easily.

Overal i like the protos , great machine. If you know anyone who's looking for a t500 , let me know

Martin

[simmer]

Now that is saying something. Willin to dump the Trex after flying the Protos.

[ping]

I dumped two of my Trex 500's after I got the Protos

[rcmarty]

I'll be selling the 500 , it does more of what i want it to do.

So far i have 1 flight on the protos and 70 on the 500.

Martin

[simmer]

you know I was (like so many others I think) so close to buying a Trex500, but at the last few minutes (days actually) I made a turn for the protos. I thought I was taking a risk with a lesser known but as I dug into and researched I made I think the correct choice for me.

Your comments guys, are afirmation I did good on my choice here. Much like my choice to NOT go with the proven shuttle in 2000 and opted for the Raptor based on a fellow flyer in the hobby shop that day.

[expertrcpilot]

Simmer, have you been had your protos up yet? i managed to get a hover in, although it was frezzing out. Had the gyro reversed, and when it came off the ground igot the ever famous uncontrolled tail whip. i set it down immediately, and both tail blades shattered, as well as the vertical stab. So, i scored some K&B blades, did a little sanding, and balancing. mounted them, and took an old plastic garbage can and cut a new fin. Made it long enough to keep it sitting flat on it's skids. Hope corrado doesn't have a cow because i hooked a peice of a trash can to his precision design

low quality pic attached:

[simmer]

hahaha,
No I have not, looking closely at the carbon tail blades though, Do not prefer plastic but I know it will work.

Still have to purchase the 6s battery (and count the teeth on the pinion) and complete the servo setup etc. Its not far from flying though. I want a neat setup so Ill take my time. Today in New England its 55 degrees. Crazy, Going out to fly the Trex now!

Will be prob until after Christmas (or the next paycheck) before I can buy the main battery though so I have lots of time to spend on getting it neat and ready. Will start with the 401 for a few months until I feel its ready for a 770 and 3400

[rcmarty]

Originally Posted by expertrcpilot

Simmer, have you been had your protos up yet? i managed to get a hover in, although it was frezzing out. Had the gyro reversed, and when it came off the ground igot the ever famous uncontrolled tail whip. i set it down immediately, and both tail blades shattered, as well as the vertical stab. So, i scored some K&B blades, did a little sanding, and balancing. mounted them, and took an old plastic garbage can and cut a new fin. Made it long enough to keep it sitting flat on it's skids. Hope corrado doesn't have a cow because i hooked a peice of a trash can to his precision design

low quality pic attached:
Attachment 72572

This is one of my worries on my maidens.

I've come up with a check that has worked well for me.

Put the tail blades horizontal , looking from the rear , you will be watching the forward blade closest to the boom. First i check the rudder direction (i prefer rate mode) and give left rudder , looking at the forward tail blade angle , picture it spinning and cutting thorugh the air (give a slow spin if you like) and see which way it would move the boom , then check to see if the nose went to the left or not , repeat for the right side (i do it anyways , just incase i looked wrong or git it twsted for left) , then for the gyro direction i put it into HH mode , still watching the forward blade , i kick the tail over 20-30 degrees and observe the blades , will they be cutting the air to return the tail to center ? I do both sides a few times. I use HH mode as it will hold the blades in position and give you plenty of time to look over it carefully.
Repeat a few times if you like.

This method eliminates and assembly issues that may have occured (tail grips installed backwards (leading/lagging)) for example. Many manuals with say the tail will go XX way if the servo rod goes forwards etc.
This only applies if everything has been assembled as per manual. Tail grip example will cause spinning.
This method will catch that. You will end up reversing the gyro to comensate for the grips assembled wrong , but will lead to a uneventfull maiden. When you do happen to find an assembly error , make sure you re-do the gyro method from square 1. Any changes square 1

Make sure the tail rod is fully snapped on the tail end also .....lol ... (don't want to know)

Martin

[expertrcpilot]

Yeah, I'm good to go now.

Question for any one.. I swear on some website i saw when i bought the protos, some one was advertising that it has (taken from they're website):

"The tail grips have integrated Chinese weights so even a mini size tail servo will have the same performance as a full size tail servo."

Is this factually true? From Hiem Joints thread, i see an actual weight hanging off the grip?????

Can anyone provide some insight??? Bob, Corrado.

Thanx,

A

[worldofmaya]

Yes this is true... just have a look at their "tail feature"... you can use everything from little to standard-size servos! This is really great! For more information about how this works just have a look at the "Tennis Racket Effect" thread here in the tech room!
-klaus

[expertrcpilot]

yeah......... uhm, i've already checked that out. "tail feature", and sayin you can use smaller servo's doesn't do it for me. I see the actual mod on other helis, on the protos, i simply do not. Maybe it's just me......

Any one else?

Bob, Corrado, Is there something hidden i'm not seeing?