Tutorial - CopterX head on Belt CP

[don99]

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[don99]

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[don99]

Originally Posted by georover1

No. There shouldn't be any. You should be able to get the head adjusted to where you have enough collective -/+ and not touch the frame. Here is mine at full negative level, full back collective, and full left.
Good luck.

Georover1, I assume that you're on "idle up" when you tried that, correct?

In idle up, when I tried like you did, the swash was so close to the frame at full negative level (almost touch the frame, ~1mm) and it touched the frame at full back collective and full left.

When i put the CopX head on, I only adjusted the servo links to level the swash and reversed the main shaft. All other links on the head i kept the preset from the factory.

The results are so bad. So now i have to raise the swash and adjust all the head links (disregard the factory preset) to correct the issue...Hopefully I will not mess up the head.

[georover1]

Georover1, I assume that you're on "idle up" when you tried that, correct?

don99
Yes i was. Are you using the stock radio or a programable one? If using the stock one this may not be easy.
Here is what i did. I reversed the shaft and got the new head attached. I moved the swash as low as it could go and not interfere with the frame and then as high as it could go and estimated and marked the mid point. All of this was done by hand without links attached. Once i had that established i set my radio so in idle up mid stick, collective was 0 deg. I then centered my servos and then adjusted and attached the swash links. I then adjusted the swash set-up in my radio so the swash would move full up and full down (but only to where i had marked to allow for frame clearance.) I re-centered the stick and now i had to adjust all the links on the head so that everything was level. There was no way i could have ran this head with the factory setting. And none of this was right on first try. It took a bit of time to get everything moving evenly. It still is not 100 percent but very close and flies great. I hope this helps good luck.

[don99]

Originally Posted by georover1

don99
Yes i was. Are you using the stock radio or a programable one? If using the stock one this may not be easy.
Here is what i did. I reversed the shaft and got the new head attached. I moved the swash as low as it could go and not interfere with the frame and then as high as it could go and estimated and marked the mid point. All of this was done by hand without links attached. Once i had that established i set my radio so in idle up mid stick, collective was 0 deg. I then centered my servos and then adjusted and attached the swash links. I then adjusted the swash set-up in my radio so the swash would move full up and full down (but only to where i had marked to allow for frame clearance.) I re-centered the stick and now i had to adjust all the links on the head so that everything was level. There was no way i could have ran this head with the factory setting. And none of this was right on first try. It took a bit of time to get everything moving evenly. It still is not 100 percent but very close and flies great. I hope this helps good luck.

You are right. I use the stock one so it is not easy but I try my best.
This is how I did: In idle up, i raised the swash until at full negative back and full negative left/right the swash did not touch the frame (1mm separation). Of course, this made my washout arms out of level. Next, i shortened 2 short links from the washout arms to the fly bar to get it level. Then i shortened 2 long links from the swash to the bell hiller arms to make it even. This is not perfect 100% but close.
As soon as the battery is full, i will try to see if i have to adjust it more.
I am in the process of hovering and work in a small room so I need to get the HH gyro (?) to make it easier and less chance of crashing into the walls...
If you feel something is not right the way i reset the Copx head please let me know. thanks.

[don99]

I have another question about the distance of the paddles on the fly bar. What is the performance effect of the heli when the paddles are further away from the main shaft compare to the ones that are closer to the main shaft? Do we have to follow exactly the distances showed in the CopX v2 manual (63mm on each side)? Thanks.

[linkahwai]

Originally Posted by don99

You are right. I use the stock one so it is not easy but I try my best.
This is how I did: In idle up, i raised the swash until at full negative back and full negative left/right the swash did not touch the frame (1mm separation). Of course, this made my washout arms out of level. Next, i shortened 2 short links from the washout arms to the fly bar to get it level. Then i shortened 2 long links from the swash to the bell hiller arms to make it even. This is not perfect 100% but close.
As soon as the battery is full, i will try to see if i have to adjust it more.
I am in the process of hovering and work in a small room so I need to get the HH gyro (?) to make it easier and less chance of crashing into the walls...
If you feel something is not right the way i reset the Copx head please let me know. thanks.

Do you have the measurement for the linkage (short, long, and servo), so that I can use that as reference. What max pitch you have?

[don99]

Originally Posted by linkahwai

Do you have the measurement for the linkage (short, long, and servo), so that I can use that as reference. What max pitch you have?

Linkahwai,
I don't have measurement for all the links I set. It's all trial and error. I used swash leveler to level the swash, the rest I just leveled by eyes (compare 2 ball link screws to see if they are horizontal) for the washout arms and the bell hiller mixer arms.
When you start, make sure at full negative back, right, left the swash do not touch the frame. I leave it at 1mm. Level the swash and check again make sure at all position it does not touch the frame. When everything alright, then you will work to adjust the head links all the way up (like the process I mentioned above), this was tedious because I had to get the head out of the shaft to adjust the links, put it back and check and did it a couple time like that until it's all leveled.
After all is done, check your blade tracking again.
I have not had time to check my pitch range but I am sure it will be OK. After the new set up, the test flight is fine, at 60% throttle it starts to lift up as expected.
I am so sorry that I can't tell you more because I am busy preparing to go back to California early tomorrow for my aunt's funeral and will get back next Tuesday if you still need me to check my measurement and pitch range at that time, I will be please to do so.
Don't forget to check the servo links, they must be 90 degrees at 50% throttle in idle up.
Hope it helps.

[linkahwai]

Originally Posted by don99

if you still need me to check my measurement and pitch range at that time, I will be please to do so.

Yes, I would like to have the length of all linkage, thanks a lot! I had a tough time on that.

[picasso]

so where can i buy one? copter X head V2 that is....
thanks
mark c

[linkahwai]

ehiboro.com USD50 for copterX head+tail

[Psycho-look]

Hey here is my belt cp

[helihathnofury]

Nice ' n ' neat.

[Psycho-look]

Thanks man

It flys like hell to.

even I manage to fly the belt now

[don99]

Originally Posted by linkahwai

Yes, I would like to have the length of all linkage, thanks a lot! I had a tough time on that.

Linkahwai - Sorry for long trip to CA. Have you figured out and fixed the linkage length problem?

[linkahwai]

Yes, I spend quite some time to make it work. Now seem to be OK for the pitch setting. Only waiting for my new servo to arrive, hopefully in a few days, one of stock servo fail.

[picasso]

damn finaly got mine in 2.5 weeks, and im stil tring to figure why customs in NY rather than san fran when comming from hong kong. but its BEAUTIFUL...

ok so i ran into the short shaft business as well. the belt-cp shaft is 122mm, while the copter x is 117mm, but your only talking about a 2mm hole difference... so if you grind down the belt main shaft about 3mm from top and gain about 2mm for more neg pitch.. i noticed the main problem is the plastic links between the swash and the control (washout) arm are longer, which causes more distance between the swash and control arm= less pitch range w/out longer main shaft....

does anyone know of a 5mm dia X 125 to 127mm main shaft, that size should be perfect, enough to achieve +/- 11 pitch range

on back up feathering shafts should i stay w/copter X or switch to align?

has anyone tried the CopterX swash guide (blue aluminum), it has the perfect shape for link clearance.. my question is if anyone knows if the base width is the same, as to fit on the belt frame?

oh yea the belt-cp carbon fiber (w/weights -KA planes) paddles fit the copterX flybar,, just work it gentaly..
damn that set up looks good..

[nasukaren]

Re: Feathering shafts and main shafts // Align vs. Copter X

I just buy whichever is on sale at the place I'm shopping at. I haven't really figured out if one is better than the other...

k

[wannahover]

Well I finally ordered my head and tail combo. Hope im one that has no problems with it and it just goes right on and flys great. But prob not

[picasso]

the only thing that was really tight was the tail unit. i sanded the paint off of the last 1" of the boom and it slid on good, and able to be leveled..