Technical tips

[Mercuriell]

Noted from my latest spares arrival that the swash driver for flybarless has been reworked - presumably to cut down manufacturing costs by using FB radius arms as drivers instead of the M3 bolt and adaptors - looks good and less parts to keep too.

[billiano]

It is in the HaiFa version for FBL head.

[Mercuriell]

Easy to do but I have had a few questions - note I have my "mixer arm" ball on the outside contrary to instructions which show them on the inside.

First off get your servo output arms nice and square at mid stick - then adjust your servo torque arms to swash links so that the swash is level at mid travel - I find a swash leveler here very useful and use a Compass one which is about 18mm thick - the link lengths come out about 41mm end to end (or 34mm mid ball to mid ball)



Next up get your grip at zero pitch - I use a 5mm tail shaft through the grip bolt hole lined up with the mast and a rubber band wrapped around the grip to keep it in position.



Next up you have to adjust the rotor head to arm link length (mine came out to 55mm end-end) so that at blade zero pitch the short limb of the arm is exactly in line with the grips - you can use the grip arm bolts to help with this - this makes sure that the long arm to swash link is square - this is a vital setup to reduce delta and funny mixing effects.



Last up adjust the length of your swash to long arm link so that the arm remains as adjusted above and the swash is mid position. This should result in the link being square with the offset longer mixer arm. I'm not giving a length here as I have the rotor head dropped down a bit and custom links .



There - easy !

[Breezyjr]

Thanks for the setup info..... Very helpful....

The one question I have, does it matter which balls on the swash the links connect to....

If you notice, turn the swash 90* from how you have, and the ball will be "pulling" the ball link.... you have it set to "push" the link....

Does it matter?

Joe_Breezy

[Mercuriell]

The swash driver arms can only work "pulling" due to their offset which necessitates the blade link being pushed - doesn't matter any how

[Breezyjr]

Guess I never really noticed till you mentioned it...

D'oh!

Joe_Breezy

[billiano]

Originally Posted by Mercuriell

The swash driver arms can only work "pulling" due to their offset which necessitates the blade link being pushed - doesn't matter any how

John is better to have the ball links pushing as it is now
because by that mean you have increased friction but better safety condition
because the cap is like a hut that you push from above on your head.
On the other hand when it's pulling you have less friction but the cap can be unlocked with less strenght like a hut that you pull it from above.

To sum up the strenght on both cases it's less than the uncoupling strenght required.So John you have them the right way in the pic

P.S: Why you use the middle hole in the head and no the bottom one as the manual claims? Do you want to achieve more close Mass Center?

[Mercuriell]

Originally Posted by billiano

P.S: Why you use the middle hole in the head and no the bottom one as the manual claims? Do you want to achieve more close Mass Center?

Goes faster

[billiano]

Yes it may Rolls and Loops faster but you had to cut more or less 3mm(1/8'') of every head rod .

[Mercuriell]

Originally Posted by billiano

Yes it may Rolls and Loops faster but you had to cut more or less 3mm(1/8'') of every head rod .

Actually I think higher mast gives faster cyclic - I am interested in speed, centre of thrust nearer centre of drag, as it's fbl only 2 links that need shortening

[billiano]

Nice to hear so John .
I will give it a thought to try this transformation

[HeliBenj]

John, what kind of pitch do you have on your head for collective and cyclic? I just converted to Cyber / Microbeast, and I couldn't get 12 / 10 with this setup. moving the long link to the inner hole of the grip mixing arm helped a bit but didn't quite do it.

Also, what if I just install the long ball link from the seesaw into the grip arm instead of the black little mixing arm? This would give a more conventional FBL setup with swash to grip direct link. Any downside to that?

[billiano]

HeliBenj

Please listen to me.
I have already used the MicrobeastX in the Aurora transformation.
http://rc.runryder.com/helicopter/t6...top=1287227914

But check carefully to have in your TX
100% servo travel adjust in all servos(Imean cyclic)
NO SWASHMIX but use 1 SERVO configuration.

Then go to set up the MicrobeastX.

I had the same problem as you but then I read the manual carefully and says that in menu in step K: Move your pitch stick all the way up (of course the menu has 100% value for pitch full up)and use the tail stick in order to get the maximum desired pitch number.

For swashplate in step L:you follow the same procedure as in step K but this time you move your left stick(mode 2) in all 4 directions and you increase or decrease the travel adjust with the help of tail stick again.
when I say in all 4 directions I mean:1 first elevator down &adjust it
2 elevator up & adjust it 3 aileron left & adjust it 4 aileron right & adjust it
But remember to use same values for up/down & left/right

[billiano]

Did you tried it?

[HeliBenj]

Thanks for the answer billiano. I have already set a Beastx on my T600 which is flying great. The problem doesn't come from the beast setup, it is only mechanical bind. How much pitch do you get on your head?

I tried the mod I described, I get much more pitch and a red almost blue light in the 6 deg just as my 600 setup. I think Ill give it a try. I just don't get why I can't get at least 12/10 on the stock setup without servos or something binding, like I don't have enough mechanical gain with the mixing arm

[billiano]

Since you managed to have +-12 deg its ok
Now try to get the ball bilks one hole closer to servo screw and the red light will become blue .I did it also in Aurora

[HeliBenj]

I crashed 5 secs into the flight. I feel so stupid, aileron was reversed, how could I not see that I'm so bummed right now... The mains cut the boom clean off
Carnage includes
first time flown VBlades
boom
Torque tube
Alu support with linear bearing, cut in half
Crown gear

Who knows what more

[hookmaker]

Ouuuuch, well I did the same with my Bergen Intrepid 2 years ago. The V-blades alone cost me 150 USD!
/Henrik

[Mercuriell]

Originally Posted by HeliBenj

I crashed 5 secs into the flight. I feel so stupid, aileron was reversed, how could I not see that I'm so bummed right now... The mains cut the boom clean off
Carnage includes
first time flown VBlades
boom
Torque tube
Alu support with linear bearing, cut in half
Crown gear

Who knows what more

Oh bummer

Sorry to hear that - I;'ve done that on my 6HV on elevator sure spins round quick ! Actually be thankful no one got hurt. Dumb things I've done on my Srimok n- forget to put the nut on the bolt holding the plastic front tray with gyro stuck on top - 20 secs into hover gyro tips forward, boom strike - tail assembly get powered into a clump of Elephant Ears - took me two days to find. Other recent ballsup was forgeting to put new tape on VBAR sensor after I peeled the sensor off and temporaily put ti back on. Impressive loss of control mid flight when the sensor fell off but the heli landed upright on its skids - gotta get lucky sometime!!

[HeliBenj]

Thanks for the good words guys. yes it sucks but all in all it could have been worse and the heli doesn't have much damage, although the darn tail components are quite expensive, but I already knew that when I got the bird.

A quick question regarding the tail gears mesh: I took the tail gear box apart because I saw the rear TT coupler didn't have any pinch bolts installed from the previous owner (), It didn't spin on the shaft but the whole shaft and CNC gear had a slight end play because of the incorrectly installed coupler. I corrected that and then saw the mesh seems to be set using the 2 M3x3 set screws on the side. Question is how tight the mesh has to be between the CNC gears? I found the best setup seems to be no backlash at all, but when spinning the tail output shaft I can still feel some sort of "grittiness" and I'm not sure if it's inherent to CNC gears or if I have it wrong.
I'd appreciate if you could tell me how it should be set.

Man I hope I have now spotted all assembly errors on this one and I also hope I'm done with own stupidity...