Gyro mount question

[jiminator]

I'm installing this: http://www.espritmodel.com/ksm10f30-...elicopter.aspx What are the size of the little counter sink screws used to attach the base of the mount to the plastic nose section? Also, what is the best gel pad to use between the two sections of the gyro mount?

I've seen some Srimoks without this mount and some with. Is it necessary? I'm using a silverline Vbar. Thanks, Jim

[wadders248]

I can't remember which size taper screws I used, though they don't need to be too long, as the plastic that they screw into is only thin. From memory it was either the 6mm or 8mm.

One thing I found was that the mount wasn't perfectly square with the main shaft, so I had to very slightly shim one side to get a perfectly flat piro.

To mount the FBL I used two pieces of the Lynx vibe killer pad which is great. I previously only used one piece in the middle and the stock FBL pad, but got serious FBL random movement at higher rpm. I also added a zip-tie with some fuel tube over the top to really hold it firmly.

[Mercuriell]

That mount was designed for,nitro. Not necessary for electric really !

[jiminator]

Thanks Wadders. Just what I was looking for. This is going into a nitro, Srimok 90 with an OS 1.05.

[jiminator]

Had a very successful re-maiden today. Decided to mount the vbar sensor on 2 pieces of gray vbar tape first to see how things would go. Was still waiting on the Lynx vibe-killer pad and Kasama screws to show up. In short, with my current flying abilities, I found no weird tendencies. In FFF I did piros in both directions and the tail did exactly what it was supposed to. In hover it piroed nice and flat and crisp. The suggested vbar .90 size settings seem to work perfectly for now. Very happy with the conversion to cyber head.

The only issue I keep having is grub screws in the tail spindle keep loosening up. Probably pulling it apart and degreasing it thoroughly will fix that . Do you guys use red loctite on these grub screws? The other problem is the loose nut behind the transmitter. Don't know why I shake like a leaf when I fly this ship. Literally only got one flight in and had to stop. Obviously the fix is a couple of cases of 30%. Jim

[wadders248]

Sounds like a successful swap to the Cyber head! I only ever use blue Loctite on the tail hub grub screws, I'll check the number tomorrow. Though I remember the version I've got has also got a de-greaser built-in. Do you have any tail vibes that might cause the grub screws to work loose?

I'm obviously not trying hard enough, as I've stopped shaking like I used to, but I still get the adrenaline rush from flying bigger helis. If anything I take more risks with the Srimok and love nitro auto's!

[jiminator]

Think I've figured it out. One of the tail grips is nice and tight with no axial play and the other has a fair amount of wobble to it. In the air everything looks really smooth with no buzzing tail fin but I bet the slight difference in length would cause a rocking motion which would loosen things up. We'll see.

Speaking of auto's, I am really going to have to learn how to do them. Had one emergency auto with my TDR that I pulled off perfectly. Made the mistake of putting in my just flown packs Flew around for about 3 to 4 minutes and while in the middle of a nice big banked turn hit the LVC. Whoops. Picked a nice big open spot and set it down like I knew what I was doing. Escaped without a scratch but I'm under no illusion it would go as nicely next time. Hard to hit TH the first time and give it a try.

[wadders248]

I bet if you take the main blades off and spool-up with just the tail blades, you would hear a humming noise as the rpms increase. The Kasama tails are a pig to setup without getting vibes or humming noise. It's also worth checking the tail hub measures equally either side from the spindle hole to the start of the grip threads.

I usually tighten the blade grip until there's no movement in and out, but not binding. Then back-off the nut to allow just a small amount of movement in the the trust bearing and a small amount of blade movement left and right.

The Srimok really is the easiest to learn autos with, especially near the end of a tank. I'm far from perfect at autos, but try and finish every flight with an auto. Forward momentum is your friend and if you're carrying too much forward speed, pull the nose up and apply a bit more negative pitch, which will spin up the blades and stop you on the spot!

Emergency autos are always going to be more difficult, but you just have to relax and do your best, anything is better than stalling the blades and not landing flat on the skids. Through speed flying and stripping gears, ESC cut-offs I've been thankful for auto practise.

[jiminator]

Just a follow up on the tail grub screws. Took the tail spindle off and spent a bit getting the grips equal. Then cleaned the grub screws and the spindle holes out with acetone. Finally got out for flight and that appeared to do the trick. No more loosening screws. Probably the first flight I've ever done with this ship that my legs didn't wobble. Really let it rip and boy does it eat up the sky!

[wadders248]

That's great news! Kasama tail mastery is a good asset to have

It really is Srimok season here, with nice cool air my OS91 is screaming and makes it even more appealing to fly like a hooligan.

[jiminator]

Did the tail on my Dune too. Dune was a treat to build and fly. Never a single hiccup. Haven't even touched the Vbar settings since setting it up. The Srimok has been a journey but a worthwhile one. I read somewhere about a fix for the elevator travel as the linkage hits the frame when giving a lot of down collective. Is the fix dremelling off or making a slot in the frame for clearance? Fly like a hooligan

[wadders248]

I never really thought about the elevator travel on my Srimok being an issue. On the Faifa I've made a dip in the past in frames to allow more travel. I thought I might have done this to my Srimok, but compared some new frames and there's no difference.

How much pitch are you running on collective and pitch? I generally run 11° cyclic and 12-13° of collective and on some helis this will cause binding at all the extremes. I've stopped worry about the binding though, as you're never likely to ever use those stick positions in actual flight.

[Puttputt maru]

I did notch the frame on my "first" Srimok as it was,hitting it.
Two reason why I stopped doing it:

1) After my first crash, a line fracture of the frame happened right where my notch was.

2) With my BD3SX as the FBL, and with most FBL I gather, it is said that it will never happen to bind in the extreme range as it will never go there.

I never looked back, it is flying fine and I have not noticed any ill effect.

[jiminator]

Thanks for the replies. Think I'll just leave it alone for the reasons mentioned. At this point I have 12 degrees +/- and 8 degrees on the cyclic. I'll probably up the cyclic a degree at a time to find what I like as 8 is pretty tame.