Linear Throttle Response with the new thesteve mcpx and the old thesteve version

[duceduc]

I would like clarification on getting a linear throttle response using the thesteve mcpx version. I searched the forum and found several threads. I figure I will summarize it up with one thread.
[The photos are from those posts in which I have gathered up. I would give credit but I can't find those threads.]

I have this thesteve version from wow.
I have a v1 3in1 board mcpx

To achieve a linear throttle response, I would need to solder the yellow wire to a resistor on the 3 in 1 board and also remove a resistor on thesteve version as well? However, if I have the old version of thesteve, I would just need to solder the yellow wire to the 3 in 1 board only?

The soldering point for the yellow wire for a v1 and v2 board are depicted by the photos.

[v1 board]


[v2 board]


The resistor you must remove from thesteve version is shown by the photo.



Is this correct?

[ror1]

i thought that if using the steve converter(black wire version) you just connect the yellow wire to the main motor connector on V1 and V2.

If using the old steve converter(blue wire version) than you need to connect as shown in your picture for V1 and I do not know about V2.

[dbennettya]

Yes, this is correct. However the only reason to use the mCP X version of the Steve is if originally someone wanted a PNP setup. The only difference between the two the Steves is the added 2.2k resistor AFAIK.

Good Luck, Don

Originally Posted by duceduc

I would like clarification on getting a linear throttle response using the thesteve mcpx version. I searched the forum and found several threads. I figure I will summarize it up with one thread.
[The photos are from those posts in which I have gathered up. I would give credit but I can't find those threads.]

I have this thesteve version from wow.
I have a v1 3in1 board mcpx

To achieve a linear throttle response, I would need to solder the yellow wire to a resistor on the 3 in 1 board and also remove a resistor on thesteve version as well? However, if I have the old version of thesteve, I would just need to solder the yellow wire to the 3 in 1 board only?

The soldering point for the yellow wire for a v1 and v2 board are depicted by the photos.

[v1 board]


[v2 board]


The resistor you must remove from thesteve version is shown by the photo.



Is this correct?

[duceduc]

Originally Posted by dbennettya

Yes, this is correct. However the only reason to use the mCP X version of the Steve is if originally someone wanted a PNP setup. The only difference between the two the Steves is the added 2.2k resistor AFAIK.

Good Luck, Don

Thank you for the reply. I have also found my answer by this thread from 755 Robert but he didn't mention removing the built-in resistor from the converter itself.

Originally Posted by 755 Robert

There are two versions of thesteve bl converter,the one with a blue ground wire is the original,this one is the one you need to solder to the small resistor on the back of the main board or you need to add a resistor to it if you want to get signal from the original motor plug.the (mcpx version) has a black ground wire'this one has a built in resistor so you can basically plug and play from the motor plug.Note the plug and play type will not have a true linear throttle response.For that you must get signal from the small resistor on the back of the board..

[duceduc]

Ok. I finally soldered my yellow wire to the pcb and remove the 2.2k resistor on the 'new' thesteve converter. [What a pain that was to remove it.] Hope I did it correct.

I test it today and it seems to be flying the same if not better. However, I did noticed now during spool up (normal mode), the motor does not spin until the stick is between 0 and the 1 mark (dx7 radio). Is this normal? When I bring it back down to 0 stick, it will stop at the 0 stick which is good.

When I was removing the 2.2k resistor, it actually burn off from the solder gun. I used a vacuum bulb to suck it out. I than solder the black and yellow wires back on the pins.

[dbennettya]

Originally Posted by duceduc

Ok. I finally soldered my yellow wire to the pcb and remove the 2.2k resistor on the 'new' thesteve converter. [What a pain that was to remove it.] Hope I did it correct.

***since it works, looks like you did good.

I test it today and it seems to be flying the same if not better.

***You can tell better throttle response by running very slow to very fast. Much better than worst case on/off switch effect.

However, I did noticed now during spool up (normal mode), the motor does not spin until the stick is between 0 and the 1 mark (dx7 radio). Is this normal? When I bring it back down to 0 stick, it will stop at the 0 stick which is good.

***yes, there is a little dead band at the bottom. If your esc is programmable you can always set the min and max setpoints to get the best performance.

When I was removing the 2.2k resistor, it actually burn off from the solder gun. I used a vacuum bulb to suck it out. I than solder the black and yellow wires back on the pins.

Enjoy, Don

[duceduc]

Thanks don for the info. Maybe you can answer my thread I just created about the collective not being constant.

After what you said about the dead band and the ability to programming it, I may also tackle that. It will also be a pain since I have soldered all my wires to the board.

If I have a dead band on the throttle, I am not getting full throttle at top stick than?

[dbennettya]

Originally Posted by duceduc

Thanks don for the info. Maybe you can answer my thread I just created about the collective not being constant.

After what you said about the dead band and the ability to programming it, I may also tackle that. It will also be a pain since I have soldered all my wires to the board.

If I have a dead band on the throttle, I am not getting full throttle at top stick than?

You are probably getting full throttle, if it works well just leave it and don't program the throttle min and max. I haven't done it on both mine and they work fine.

Good Luck, Don

[BonesD]

Hey guys,
Love the info. One question. I have a V2 with the wow HP05 with the Steve PCB and XP-7A attached. I have since removed the Steve PCB ( a crashed forced that issue lol ) but I have burnt another tail FET and found the mod for moving the tail output to the main motor FET's. I haven't found a clear answer for my version of the Steve PCB version modifications or soldering point..
My question is does the yellow wire of the Steve PCB get the proper signal from the back of the 3 in 1 since it is ust to seeing a positive signal from the main motor conector. Im looking at the back of the 3 in 1 and it looks like a negitive signal coming out of the signal generator chip going to the first FET. Am I over thinking this or is the newer PCB version of the Steve non discriminant of the type of signal?

[CousinLarry]

I find that linear throttle doesn't matter much to me. I soldered right to motor power lead. I fly 100% throttle on all points except for low stick - so linear throttle isn't something that's needed.

[CX2Pilot]

I saw on a post which thesteve guy said you do not need to remove
the 2.2K resistor to to solder the yellow wire to the back of the 3in1 board.
I have not been able to find this post again or I would update the picture
in my mCPX review which is where the picture in post #1 is from.

Does anybody know thesteve user name here?

EDIT: I found out it is TheSteve.


Tom

[stevebaker]

That's right.

The converters that I make and sell in the UK (rcdesigns.co.uk) are the same. You can leave the built in resistor and still solder to the board.

[CX2Pilot]

Thanks Steve. I put a note in my mCPX BL Review.

NOTE: You can use TheSteve mCPX version and solder the yellow wire to the back of the 3in1 board to the tiny resistor.

See this post: https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...=376919&page=2


Tom

[BonesD]

Today I did the tail fet mod. I did it out of desperation , the left pad for the tail fet pulled off the board. I noticed that on my board the pad also pulled the junction to the other side and I had to put in a bypass for that problem after I had already made the jumper. All said and done works great! Check out the pics........