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SR Blade Helicopters (eFlite) SR |
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03-31-2010, 12:54 AM | #21 (permalink) | |
Formerly BarnStormer
Join Date: Aug 2008
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Dude... you just made me spit out a bunch of Starburst jelly beans!
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03-31-2010, 01:18 AM | #22 (permalink) | |
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03-31-2010, 04:41 AM | #23 (permalink) |
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SR tail motors/Holy H20..God Bless~~~~
This could very well be the most entertaining post on the SR so far! Cheers to science...
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03-31-2010, 06:09 AM | #24 (permalink) | |
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03-31-2010, 06:24 AM | #25 (permalink) |
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That last line says it all............. I'm not saying we should all play nice, but exchanges of opinion are valid and needed for everyone to draw their own conclusions. Sean M has gone to great lengths to provide us with some insight to the T/R problems we face and how to negate or delay them. I hate surprizes, and when mine let go I didn't have this option available, I just soldered a replacement motor on.....but if I hear it start that high-pitched whine in about 2-3 hours flight time my replacement will def get prepped the way he suggests. If it works, I'm ahead. If it doesn't what did I lose? I've killed AA"s on a lot worse experiments........ Sean M, thanks for your time and effort. You also don't have to defend your thread; we can judge for ourselves who's statements have merit and who is just blowing smoke... Jake
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03-31-2010, 07:05 AM | #26 (permalink) | |
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03-31-2010, 07:56 AM | #27 (permalink) |
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i agree stay out if you have nothing but negative things to say. i know this method works. like i said racing electric cars for 10 or so years this method was always used to seat the brushes properly to the commutator of the motor, when they are properly seated they run more efficient with less resistance. i think sean is on to something here. and like others have stated sure the motors are only 9 dollars but what about all the other parts that get destroyed cause of a 9 dollar failure???
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03-31-2010, 02:46 PM | #28 (permalink) |
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hey thumbs, this has notin to do wit heli's in particular, dees guys are talking about electic motors in which seating da brushes can make a 2 cent motor last and perform longer. I am glad mt new table saw didn't arrive with you in the shop and me gone as you would have started it out @ 200mph- kilo ??? Why so sharp, you married to my wife ??...ya got 1 point right...don't buy the new Volvo!!
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03-31-2010, 02:56 PM | #29 (permalink) |
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ahaha, allthumbs always causing a ruckus to get his point across.
I like the break in theory because I don't like losing the rudder mid flight.
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03-31-2010, 04:18 PM | #30 (permalink) |
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So I've got my SR on order, and the last thing i want to see is once i finally get some hovering in, and get the bird in the air, the tail motor gives out, and now i have to wait for a bunch of parts to be ordered in. So should i just take off the motor thats on it, and break it in before i do anything? If the answer is yes, then a very detailed instruction on how to do this would be much appreciated. Didn't wanna say this, but i am new to this, i think "noob" seems to be the term...
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03-31-2010, 05:03 PM | #31 (permalink) |
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Yes, I would break it in. For detailed instructions, check put the YouTube video on the first page of this thread.
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03-31-2010, 06:10 PM | #32 (permalink) |
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If you do a water break-in, though, typically you need to lubricate the bushings/bearings afterward.
I'm not sure which this motor uses. Now, another note... when brushed motors fail, there is ALWAYS A REASON. For those of you who have had failed tail motors, have you taken it apart and looked at it to see the reason? My guess: overheated brushes & commutator. Instead of a nice, gray-black surface, it's probably pitted & corroded from arcing due to the high voltage E-Flite is shoving through a motor that's built for half that voltage.
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03-31-2010, 06:19 PM | #33 (permalink) | |
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I'm not sure what went on with this thread since yesterday, crazy
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Not to beat a dead horse, but if all you intend to do is hover a foot off the ground, I guess a $9 motor replacement really isn't that bad. I don't know about you thumbs, but I do fly higher then a foot. Replacement Motor after your stock motor burned out sub 30 flights? $9 Dollars Distilled Water $1 Dollar AA Batteries from the Dollar store. $1 Dollar Piece of mind knowing your motor will last longer ... Priceless For everything else, thier is MasterCard |
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03-31-2010, 06:20 PM | #34 (permalink) |
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I haven't had a chance yet to open mine up, but I'm assuming that mine failed the same way that QueadlunnRau's did. I noticed that there was a lot of arcing going on when mine was on it's way out. So, to some it all up... it failed due to the brushes not being able to make a good connnection that didn't cause excessive arcing.
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03-31-2010, 06:27 PM | #35 (permalink) | |
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The communicator also had sooooooo much carbon build up on it. If you find the post, don't mind the moisture you see, I was trying to revive that motor after I found the issue by cleaning it with alcohol and using communicator oil to clean it. Installed my replacement motor this morning, did a wet break in with a bottle of water lol, flew the SR twice at lunch ... maybe it's just in my mind, but I felt the tail was more solid then when I got her. |
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03-31-2010, 06:30 PM | #36 (permalink) |
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Wierd, I just noticed there is a SeanM and a Sean_M, both having problems with the SR tail motor.
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03-31-2010, 07:34 PM | #38 (permalink) |
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brake clean works really well on electric motors. after running them in water flush them out with brake clean, then lube the comm and brushes with some oil.
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03-31-2010, 07:47 PM | #39 (permalink) |
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That's what I did, but I dipped them in isopropyl alchohol instead. The only thing about doing this is that you must make sure to re-oil it because of the achohols ability to completely remove all oils. I could see someone skipping this step after the wet break in process. Even HH didn't acknowledge the need to oil these motors when I specifically asked.. they must want these things to fail.
The communicator is on the backside of the motor, which make it near impossible to lube. Is there a special lube for the communicator? |
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