450s on futaba 7C

[E-fanatic]

Ok guys I am new at this but I am trying to set up my 450 t-rex clone to my futaba 7C 2.4 radio.

Now to tell you what going on, My brother has the same heli but he got the RTF version. His radio has a awitch that turns on and off the throttle thats on the left. On the right threre is a switch that makes the plane fly more like a FP heli and adjusts the power and if you flip the switch it make the motor spin up and you start middle stick.

In the normal mode set up you have throttle curve and pitch curve. I can adjust either one to operate either was I want but not both on a switch like my brothers.

I guess I need to know how to have that kill switch and how to set up a switch to go between modes. I can set up throttle curves the way I want but dont know how to set ity up to do both modes on a switch. Any advice or set up recommendations are welcomed. I need help.

PS I almost forgot do you all use expo at all (I am a noob) and about what % and on what channels?

Thanks guys!

[DustinB]

I was using a 7C just fine before my new radio. Read the manual for setting up throttle curves and pitch curves. They should default to the idle-up switch, but you have to activate/link the throttle curves to the pitch curves. It's in the advanced menu under either throttle or pitch curve at the bottom. The manual should show this.

On your normal throttle curve you should have 0-100% curve. You don't just start the heli by flicking the switch. You bring the stick slowly up to 50% in normal mode and then flick into idle-up.

Be careful with expo on futaba radios. You can probably use about 30-50% if you are fairly new. I use about 10% just to get nice perfect hovers. MAKE SURE you use a NEGATIVE number. Do not use a positive number, you will increase the sensitivity. So you can try for say -30% on channel 1, 2, & 4. Try the manual, if you still have problems I will dig the radio otu when I get home from work.

[E-fanatic]

Thanks I am going to jump back into the manual. I have time today to sit down and go threw it slowly(Off of work today and tomorrow) I will see what I can do.
I have had the radio for about 6 months now but I was only flying planes, I didnt relise how much it was involed to set up a heli( been doing rc trucks for 10+ years and planes for the past 2½ years and going into helis is like being a noob all over again)

[jondbennett]

Did you get your 450 set up on your 7C?

If not, I'll be happy to help. I am flying two T-Rex 450 on my 7C (2.4).

[E-fanatic]

No not yet.

I did get my brothers set up on his 6ex though. Its self explanitory there

The issue I am having is trying to get both normal and idle up modes to work ???? How do I turn it on and what switch does it use and where do I put in my curves to run both??? I know what curves I want , I got the gyro set up, Got the head and servos level. Just need to get the radio to work right and I will be off(I have been flying my brothers since I am the one that has been working on it)

Any and all help would be great.

[jondbennett]

Are you using the 7CA or 7CH?

In any case, the helicopter normal and idle-up modes should be in the three-position switch.

Turn the radio on, and when it is up, press and hold the "Mode/Page" button until it displays the B1 (Basic 1) page.

Scroll down until you see the "Parameter" setting on B3. Select it and press enter.
You should see a type like "H3" or something like that. If you see "Acro" then this model memory is in airplane mode.

What do you find?

Also, if you want to go voice, I am sure I can talk you through it on the phone pretty quickly. We could also chat on helifreak chat (at least I think we could.)

Finally, if you don't already have it, it is worthwhile to download the manual as a pdf. It is much faster to search the manual electronically.

[E-fanatic]

Ok I got the 3 position switch set up (N) no throttle(so nothing turns on in that mode), (1) for 0- 100% with pitch 48,49,50,75,100 (2) throttle 100,93,87,93,100 pitch 0-100

Throttle hold doesnt work like this either??? Is that OK . It was set that switch E (on the other side was set up with no throttle and then flip it and it only gives you 1 mode

Heli mode hr3. I have the swash set up leval at 50% stick with 0 pitch

Is there any mixes that you would suggest? If its easier to do this over the phone PM me your # and I will call you.



Also how does this work

http://www.xheli.com/exilefor45he.html

[E-fanatic]

Its the airplane radio but has all the heli programming

[E-fanatic]

Alright. I got it I now have it all set up. On switch postion "normal" I have it all at 0 so it like a safty. (I have my throttle hold at that right now too) Position "1" I have my throttle at 0- 100 and pitch from -2 to +11 . Position "3" I have the throttle at 100,93,87,93,100 and my pitch -11 to +11. At center stick my ptich is 0 and swash is level with all arms to the head level.

Any expo recommendations or dual rate?? Any mixes I should know about?

Thanks for you all setting me in the right direction.

[jondbennett]

Looks like you have most of it figured out.

No mixes should be necessary.

As for the pitch curves, I have tried the "old school" method and found that it is really not helpful. In particular, if your pitch curves are not pretty much identical then changing from one flight mode to another can be kind of tricky.

I finally settled, as most others have, on +/- max pitch. It looks like +/- 11 degrees is your range. I am at +/- 10, and that seems to work for me. I do inverted and FFF, but no "3D" yet. (I'm working on it in simulation.)

I set my normal mode to 0 degrees from bottom of stick to half stick, then to max pitch from there on.

My pitch curves are:
N: 50, 50, 50, 75, 100
1: 0, 25, 50, 75, 100
2: 0, 25, 50, 75, 100
H: 0, 25, 50, 75, 100.

I think you can see the pattern: 50, 75, 100 on the top half of all modes. Only normal is unique. Some assert that you need some negative pitch is needed in normal if you are going to fly around. The stated reason is that it can be hard to bring a heli down in a breeze with no negative pitch. I have not experienced this problem, so I don't have any negative in normal. I like it because I can spool up to full head speed before the heli takes off.

I understand your "safety" comment in having normal mode at all zero, and some people have done this. I like normal for hover practice, so I have it set as noted above. The main advantage in having normal at all zero pitch is that you cannot take off in normal mode. This can be important when you start to fly inverted. Going inverted in normal mode can be a problem. :o

Also, you might as well set your throttle hold at +/- 11. If you ever "have to" go to throttle hold you will either be doing it to prevent main-gear damage, in which case the pitch curve will not matter, or you will be doing it to attempt an autorotation, in which case you will need the pitch range.

I don't use any dual rate (DR) also called "Adjustable Travel Volume" (ATV), but I do use expo. In the Futaba radios you will always want to use negative expo.

I use the following expo on Roll and Pitch (Aileron and Elevator).
N: -20
1: -10
2: -15

These might be too tame for you. I am fairly conservative in my flying, not really a "stick banger."

Actually, I do use Dual Rate for the rudder. I use 75% Dual rate to limit the piro rate, and I use -10% expo across the board for the rudder. I don't find the need to have the tail behave differently in various flight modes. My rudder is at 75% in both low and high rates.

Also, I have the dual rates programmed on switch A, not on the three-position. This mimics the RealFlight simulator with which I practice. I am not asserting that this is a "best practice," only that *I* do it this way. You will have to experiment and find what works best for you.

Your throttle curve should look something like:
N: 0, 50, 80, 85, 90
1: 90, 85, 80, 85, 90
2: 100, 95, 90, 95, 100

If you find that the head speed is too high for comfort at your experience level (as I did) then remove a tooth from the pinion. You will get more flight time at higher motor RPM, so run the motor near 100% power, and use the pinion to regulate head speed.

As for the "EXI Leveler for 450/400 Helicopters" there is some controversy. Some love them , others assert that they are not "necessary." I happen to be one that loves them.

It works like this:
The purpose is to make sure that the swash is perfectly level at -max pitch, 0 pitch, and +max pitch. It is used with the swash plate installed but the head off of the helicoper.

First, you set the swash to the correct height above the frame (10 mm). This sets the position of the swash when the head should be at 0 degrees pitch. I use the "FireUp" leveling tool to set this height. The tool is similar to:
http://www.readyheli.com/Custom_Heli...p/chp-0612.htm

Once that is done then set the CCPM interaction tool (the one you linked to), or this one:
http://www.readyheli.com/T_Rex_450_P...p/leveler8.htm

(same tool, different brand).

You should see that the swash is perfectly level and touching all wings of the tool. If it is not perfectly in contact then you alter the linkages from the servos to the swash until it is perfect. (This assumes that your servos are all at perfect 90)

Once the swash is level at 0 degrees then you run the pitch up to max and verify that the swash is still perfectly level with the tool. If not then you adjust your endpoint adjustments in the Tx to bring the swash to level. This procedure is repeated at minimum pitch.

Once you know the swash is level at all pitches then you can install the head and start perfecting your pitch settings. If they are off (and they will be) then you know the problem is in the head linkages because the swash is perfect.

The link to the interaction tool above (the Trueblood tool) on ReadyHeli has detailed usage instructions that may be helpful.

Finally, were do you live? I am asking because here in Ohio we have 3 inches of snow on the ground and more on the way. I am wondering when/where you will have a chance to try out your new heli.

[E-fanatic]

Jon , WOW thats the most informitive post I have read. Thank you!

I ordered a motor and gyro(both align ones) but the company has them on back order , so I cancled my order. I am now in the need of a motor and gyro. Any suggestions for a beginner thats broke It was only going to cost $100 for the align stuff.

I am setting my brothers heli up too and I got his together and set up with his futaba 6ex. I took off in my liveing room and it was very smooth and stable. Now I guess I need to go back over it with all this new and wonderfull info

Oh , I live on the Outer Banks of North Carolina (on the beach) so NO snow here. Just windy and cold. Its a northish wind and I have trees that block the wind.


I will go over my heli and make the correct changes as needed , Again I cant thank you enough for the help

[jondbennett]

Not a problem.
We're all beginners here.

[E-fanatic]

I just ordered a scorpion HK-2221-8 V2 . I also ordered an 11, 12 and 13 tooth pinion. What would you recommend? I also picked up a cheap gyro until more funds are avalable to get a good one.
Hopefully the stuff should be heer right before Christmass

[jondbennett]

You'll like that motor.
I bet the 12T will work well.
I'm running 12T on that motor and it is perfect for me.

Some like a higher head speed and run the 13. I like the extra torque and lack of bogging that I get with the 12T.

[E-fanatic]

Originally Posted by jondbennett

You'll like that motor.
I bet the 12T will work well.
I'm running 12T on that motor and it is perfect for me.

Some like a higher head speed and run the 13. I like the extra torque and lack of bogging that I get with the 12T.

Will do, 12 tooth it is. Is there a target speed I should be looking for? I am useing wooden blades but will go carbon if nessasary. I am not into 3d as of yet as this is my first heli. So All I can do is hover and small circuits(nothing crazy) My goal is 3d with this heli. I fly mostly 3D with my planes and love the challange. Again thanks for all the help

[jondbennett]

I have found the cheap wooden blades to be adequate for inverted hovering, loops and rolls, and general aerobatics.

While learning, I think it is best to keep everything as inexpensive as possible. It makes it a lot easier to try things. I don't think it would have been as easy for me to try my first inverted hover if I thought it was going to cost $60 to repair the heli. Carbon blades are expensive, and any crash will eat the blades.

You can do a lot with the wooden blades, but you should not run them much over about 2600 RPM. I hear 2400-2800 are the limits.

Once you know your target head speed, just use the handy head speed calculator to figure the pinion.

http://www.readyheli.com/Online_Head...lator_s/81.htm

[E-fanatic]

I used the leveler and I was dead on! I cant belive I was that lucky. It stays level from full down, middle, and full up. I cant wait to get this on in the air. I have mine set up a litttle softer than my brothers(I have my swash moveing about 1/2 as much as him) I want tit to last a while for my beginner thumbs.

[yakflyer]

Jon, Thanks for the great information! I too have been stumbling around this area of setup and find your information getting me to the ah-ha moment I have been looking for! Merry Christmas!

[jondbennett]

No problem. I'm glad I was able to help.
HeliFreak is a great board with lots of helpful people.

[R Davis]

You may want to look at Finless Bob's Helifreak tech room. The vids on CCPM set up are great. I thank its in skills and set up 101. also pitch and throttle curves are good .I have a trex 450 and 7c and my set up about the same as jondbennett , his info is spot on. Good luck.


https://www.helifreak.com/forumdisplay.php?f=60