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Mikado Logo Helicopters Mikado Logo Helicopters Discussion |
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06-03-2011, 04:46 AM | #21 (permalink) |
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Thanks! That's a relief (no components left after finishing a step is always nice!)
Which brings me to.... two metal washers, .5mm thickness. I was amazed to have two .5mm washers lying on the table, staring at me: "mount us, if you don't we'll take care of crashing your heli at some point!"... So... picture below is not correct, there must be a metal washer between circlip and bearing. The second one goes on top of the heli, between bearing and main shaft clamp. |
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06-03-2011, 04:51 AM | #22 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Dec 2008
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Nice pics
10s of 12s??? Fly the same 600se and loving it . On 12s whit a pyro700-45 and a 11t pinion Ps heb eventueel nog een set quik uk grips liggen mocht je die upgrade op je tail willen .
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Logo 600 SE- Kontronik Pyro 700-45L, Jive 80HV, BLS 451's, BLS 251, VBar |
06-03-2011, 06:14 AM | #23 (permalink) |
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I had the same 2 washers left over after my build too. There is no washer that goes between snap ring and bearing. Dont know what they are for either but they havent crashed my heli YET.....lol
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06-03-2011, 06:48 AM | #24 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2008
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Anybody who knows where they supposed to fit ?
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We don't stop playing because we grow old; We grow old because we stop playing! LOGO700(2) - LOGO690SX - 700XXTREME - GOBLIN380 KSE - VBARCTRL |
06-03-2011, 08:57 AM | #25 (permalink) |
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My 500 3D showed the washer between the bearing and the split ring. It didn't show it on the 600 SE so I only used them where shown so I have left over too.
Spextrex I love your use of depth of field. Your shutter must have been wide open on some of the pictures and they are excellent.
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Logo 600SE, Full Vbar 5.1, Pyro 700-45L, 451's, 251, Jive 80HV, 12S, AMA Logo 500 Vbar 5.1, JR, HK4025-1100, CC Ice 100, Trex 450 Pro Vbar 5.1 |
06-03-2011, 11:08 AM | #26 (permalink) |
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Are they sending new vertical stabilizers in the kits? The one in the pictures above looks a lot more aggressive than the one I have.
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06-03-2011, 11:22 AM | #27 (permalink) | |||
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Quote:
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06-03-2011, 11:31 AM | #28 (permalink) |
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Are you sure you don't have any play between main gear and tail gear? I am confused, the washer fits exactly, if I am to leave it out I have .5 mm play in my gears.
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06-03-2011, 11:45 AM | #29 (permalink) |
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You may want to search on what spacers and location go on the main. Dave Dahl had a good post on how he sets up Kyle's heli's. I am at work at don't remember the info. If should not be too hard to find.
Also, you may want to read up on the spacers on the feathering shaft. A lot of good posts on this, and the manual is really not very good descibing this. I went with two 0.5mm flat metal spacers on each side after the the o-rings. I also did not grease the o-rings. My kit only had two 0.5mm spacers, but I had an extra set from my 500. Good luck and happy flying!!
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Mini Protos, T-Rex 500, Logo 500SE, Logo 600SE |
06-03-2011, 12:02 PM | #30 (permalink) |
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Take a look at how the belt travels across the two belt guides in the frame. (The ones behind the main belt pulley and in front of the boom.) Sometimes you need to move the washers around so that the belt travels as centered as possible -- meaning add another 0.5 washer or 0.2mm shim between the bottom main shaft bearing (that's in the frame) and the main belt pulley.
From memory, I just use a 0.2 mm washer between the bottom main shaft bearing and belt pulley, another 0.5 washer between the belt pulley and main gear/one-way bearing, then another 0.5 mm washer above the circlip. So from top to bottom: - Bottom main shaft bearing - 0.2mm Washer (or 0.5mm Washer [or whatever combo] to make sure the belt rides as centered as possible across the two belt guides.) - Main belt pulley - 0.5mm Washer (or 0.2mm Washer if you can't get the circlip on securely) - Main gear/one-way bearing - 0.5mm or 0.2mm Washer - Circlip BTW, sometimes if you forget to add a washer between the main belt pulley and main gear, the top of the main gear might rub against the frame. If you find that you don't have enough room to put a 0.5mm washer above the circlip, use a 0.2mm washer/shim (if you have one in the kit or have it somewhere in your parts box)... or skip the washer or shim altogether. I'm not sure if skipping the washer or shim is the right thing to do, but as long as there's no play between the circlip and main gear you're good to go. There should be no play at all in the stack of stuff between the bottom main shaft bearing and the circlip. Also be sure that the circlip is securely fastened on the bottom of the main shaft. You don't want that thing (and main gear) to come off in flight. Oh, I put a 0.5mm washer between the top main shaft bearing and main shaft collar. |
06-03-2011, 12:07 PM | #31 (permalink) |
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+1... The current kits might have a 1mm flat metal spacer for each side after the o-rings...(?) Either way, just be sure to have 1mm on each side after the o-rings.
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06-03-2011, 01:56 PM | #32 (permalink) |
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Thanks, I will rethink everything and check if I didn't make some mistake. I think the fiber rings in the main blade grips are a bit strange, why not metal but maybe fiber prevents the o-rings from wearing. O-rings are mainly inside the bladegrips though, some tiny bit sticking out.
Anyway, photo update. Not all that great, I'm a litte tired. But finished the build as far as I could. Next is electronics (I'll post pictures of that too when I get to it) Main blade grips: VBar swashplate driver (so many bearings!) - At first I forgot the copper / brass bushes (hollow tubes, that's bushes right?). Anyway, I had to remove some bearings, put the copper bushing in and reattach the bearing, all set... : Rotor head so far. Blade grips, VBar head, VBar swashplate driver and swashplate: Motor... Did I ever mention it is a bit large? (hint: sand some material off the top frame and don't bolt the frame tight at the top, then the motor just slides in). Motor and herringbone: Herringbone and pinion (11 tooth, I plan to run low RPM): This is about as far as I can get right now. I already have the mini VBar unit so I guess I can hook up a small receiver pack to set up the VBar. Now I must wait for Jive 120HV and tail servo to arrive. Not to mention the Lipo's and chargers... Attached the canopy and main blades and could not resist putting the T-REX 450 next to this thing... Here's a nice challenge: see if you can spot the Blade mCPX! |
06-03-2011, 02:44 PM | #33 (permalink) |
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AMAZING PICS! and of course AMAZING HELY!I am dying to get one of this but unfortunately no founds available!
Chris
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06-03-2011, 03:15 PM | #34 (permalink) |
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Looking good.
One thing though, you have your main blade grips on wrong way. You have them set as trailing edge control, should be leading edge. You need to remove blades and blade control bolt and flip them. Also remember to correct your links as they could then be reversed depending how you do things.
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06-03-2011, 03:40 PM | #35 (permalink) |
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I believe you are right! Thanks for correcting this and shame on me. I do believe this is one of those set and forget things that you never see afterwards with all possible damage that may occur.
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06-03-2011, 04:59 PM | #36 (permalink) |
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I have a problem here. Does anyone know what they mean by this? ->
I have read it a hundred times, I simply don't understand what needs to be done. Maybe someone that already built a Logo 600 can explain? |
06-03-2011, 05:35 PM | #37 (permalink) |
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I just read it 5x and I don't know what the heck that description is saying either! But... here's what's important when adjusting the swash driver (and BTW, I usually adjust the swash driver when I'm ready to do the VBar setup, with the main blades installed):
Short version: When the swash driver is in the correct position, the links from the swash to the blade grips will be positioned straight up and down -- parallel to the main shaft. Long version of how to do it: Servo arms should be at 90 degrees, TX collective stick at zero/middle position, and blades should be at zero pitch. On my Logos, the swashplate is also about 10mm above the top of the frame (or maybe the collar -- I'll check later). Slide the swash driver up or down on the main shaft so that the (black) swash driver arms look like they're perpendicular to the main shaft -- same position as in the drawing you highlighted in the manual. Once the swash driver is in position, you'll have to push down one of the servo arms so you can access the locking screw (in the swash driver). Then, tighten the screw in the swash driver just tight enough that it will stay in position on the main shaft, but you can still move/turn the swash driver. Next step is to turn the swash driver (keep it at the same height on the main shaft) so that the links from the swash to the blade grips are exactly parallel and in line with the main shaft. When you look at your picture below, you see that your swash-to-blade grip link looks like it's tilting to the right: When the swash driver is in the correct position, the same link will be positioned straight up and down -- parallel to the main shaft. Now, tighten the screw in the swash driver to lock it in place. Remember to use Loctite. Don't use gorilla-type force on this screw because something will strip. (I'm speaking from experience). I hope that made sense. I can take a photo of mine when I get home... Let me know. |
06-03-2011, 06:26 PM | #38 (permalink) |
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That sentence teaches you how to adjust the swash driver so that there is min phasing error. The outer ball is referring to the ball connected to the elevator back servo. The inner ball is the ball that is connected to the swash driver. If the 2 balls are aligned. Your main grips shoud be parallel to your boom. So there is no phasing error.
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06-03-2011, 09:24 PM | #39 (permalink) |
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Are those stock servo arms?
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