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Old 08-03-2009, 02:45 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Default Sensor....

I would mount the sensor on the top shelf...put the sensor on one side and the rx and vbar brain on the other(stacked)


Here's what I did..



there's enough room for the sensor in the middle also...

OR ...you could use a boom mount ...not ideal ...but it works just fine also ...see this pic

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Old 08-03-2009, 02:55 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Hi!
Thanks for the pictures... by the way they helped when building the frame I'll try to mount all on the top platform. Seams to me the safest place for that. How did you mount your tail broom brace?
-klaus
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Old 08-03-2009, 03:01 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Default Tail Boom braces...

there is a small hole on the lower part of the frame...and then I just used a mikado clamp on the boom...no fin ..

I will get a pic for you tomorrow if you need it..
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Old 08-03-2009, 03:46 PM   #24 (permalink)
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No thanks, I know what you mean!
I noticed on your G10 frame that you don't have those two spacers at the lower part of the frame a little bit behind the main gear, in front of the tail servo. The carbon frame has them...
-klaus
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Old 08-03-2009, 03:56 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Default g10 frame...

That G10 frame is actually the first G10 prototype made of that frame...if you look at it closely you'll see some other differences...After assembling and flying that g10 one I made some suggestions and took other peoples suggestions and proposed the changes to the makers of the frame...they then incorporated the changes...

Here are the changes made from my g10 one to the newer frames : solid upper radio tray (in back)for rx and vbar sensor(my g10 has a cut out plate so that's why I used a boom mount for my gyrobot)

no supports in the back area(I felt it needed more support)
No support from motor mount to the lower servo mount(metal servo frame)
better boom clamps and reducer so it can be used for logo 600 as well
Carbon esc plate instead of a metal one
Thrust bearings in the main shaft tube
slightly redesigned idler pulley setup

and I think that's about it

BUT ...the new g10 and carbon frames are the same except for the material used for the side frames etc...


Here's my G10 frame stripped down:

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Old 08-04-2009, 09:11 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Default Maidened my new Carbon framed heli

as expected...the heli flew PERFECTLY!

hands off hover from the start...I am in awe at how well this heli flies actually
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Old 08-04-2009, 09:16 AM   #27 (permalink)
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okay... great that they did a re-design! Only thing I don't like is that the carbon is a little bit thin. I would have preferred 2mm side frames.
-klaus
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Old 08-04-2009, 09:30 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Default side frames...

Yeah...I'm not crazy about the thickness either....BUT...after being built the frame is quite rigid...


just not sure how well it will hold up in a crash...

I am going to recommend maybe going a bit thicker....1.5mm or 2mm would be better
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Old 08-04-2009, 11:33 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Maybe just adding doubler on weaker spots would be better than make the entire frame heavier?
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Old 08-04-2009, 11:37 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Default Vic...

It's funny you say that...there are actually doublers on the front section and braces throughout...that's why I think it's plenty rigid...just more reassuring sometimes to have thicker material..


Anthony
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Old 08-04-2009, 11:47 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jag72 View Post
I have 2 logo 600's already
I will be converting my logo 600's to these frames next

(landing gear)There are aluminum supports that bolt to the side frames....they do not break the frames like the original logos...they just mangle the landing gear it's a pretty strong design ...


as for the Gyrobot....I will not be buying any more Vbars...I am so impresssed with the flying performance of the gyrobot that going forward I'llbe putting gyrobots on all my machines...

I currently have 11 flybarless machines and 3 of the have the gyrobot 700..the rest are vbar...for me personally I think the gyrobot flies every bit as well and is Very simple to tune...in fact I think the gyrobot has a wider margin for error on the setup file than the vbar....meaning it flies good with a WIDE range of settings...the vbar is a great flying setup but tends to be a bit more finicky in setup and adjustments...


Just my opinion though


Anthony
Thx for the info, ill keep an eye on that gyrobot
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Old 08-04-2009, 11:48 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Default FYI....I just listed a vbar for sale:)

If anyone out there wants a vbar with 4.0 let me know...

I am beginning my conversion to all gyrobots...
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Old 08-04-2009, 11:49 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Then its probably all fine then.

However a stronger option is not thicker material, maybe an all outer frame support instead of spacers and metal stand offs will be more rigid. A molded plastic piece holding the two halves together on all outer edges, so at impact the frame wont twist or bend resulting in cracked frames.
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Old 08-04-2009, 12:53 PM   #34 (permalink)
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OK, received my CF and G10 frames today. Whohooo!

Well, I too think 1.2mm is not quite beefy but I guess it will be just fine. Maybe I'll ask my friend to CNC some 2.0mm replacement parts.

Probably this weekend I'll put my L600 in the air, with the CF frame of course.

BTW, I want to thank you, Anthony, for all your help and support. You should get some share of the turnover from HD or whomever...

Cheers
Markus
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Old 08-04-2009, 01:02 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Default Thanks guys ...

I appreciate the kind words...but this is all done in the spirit of helicopter flying

No compensation necessary....

if you have any questions on the assembly just let me know...since there are no instructions it can be a bit confusing...

you could always use my pics if needed also

if you need more pics just let me know ...

good luck

Anthony
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Old 08-04-2009, 10:20 PM   #36 (permalink)
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I can't wait to see these things in person at IRCHA!
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Old 08-05-2009, 01:28 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Here're some facts about weight... if you compare a L600 frame with the CF frame without 20mm adapter the weight difference is ~50g more [Edit: more weight for the carbon frame], the 25 to 20mm boom adapter weights ~25g more, something around 75g more for a L500.
Besides the thin sideframe parts I like the carbon frame, it's easier to work on this frame compared to the quit closed mikado frame. And of course all those screws and nuts will last longer if you change things more often.
-Klause
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Last edited by worldofmaya; 08-05-2009 at 04:58 PM.. Reason: added info
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Old 08-11-2009, 04:18 PM   #38 (permalink)
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OK, had the maiden flight today and it's fantastic! No difference in flight characteristics compared to the plastic frame. So it's still a Logo, with plenty of bling on board. I really love that frame. Even my friend who's a fan of the plastic frame needed to admit that it's a nicely done upgrade.

I'll post some nice pix very soon.

BTW, test flown the new MS Composit CFC Champion carbon blades. All I can say is: WOW! These blades just beat the crap out of the heli. Very crisp! Just amazing. For me it's bye bye Radix...
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Old 08-12-2009, 06:19 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Hi!
I had my first flight with this frame yesterday. My L600 flew great right with first try. I exchanged some other parts and reset my VBar, so I can't really say if the frame makes a different. But I don't think so...
The great think is that you don't see any cables. Together with my new Fusuno canopy my Logo looks really great! I'll post some pictures as soon as I've time to take some.
One thing I've noted is that the boom position and the angle is different. There's way less room between the ground and the tail fin and I really have to take care of my 97mm MS Composit tail blades.
Another no that great point is that it's quit hard to mount Futaba BLS451 Swash servos. With the standard Mikado arm you can't mount the swash guide facing towards the main shaft. If you face the carbon part of the swash guide towards the tail, the ball link touches the swash guide. I solved that by taking a little bit of the CNC part away. Another thing is the frame was created with the possibility to use different sized servos. You really have to fit your servos before securing your frame screws.
They sum it up I really like this frame! Thicker side frame parts and the front space lowered would make it a perfect L600 frame replacement. I heard that there'll be a L600 frame too and I hope they think about some of the points I've found!
-klaus

[Edit] The tail rod had to be around 3mm longer too...
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Old 08-12-2009, 02:57 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Had the same issue with the tail fin. Just added some washers between the frame brackets and landing gear. This solved it nicely.

You deserve some pix. Here you go:













Canomod canopy still needs to be trimmed but it looks b.a. !

Enjoy
Markus
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