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Warp 360 Compass Warp 360 Model Helicopter Discussion |
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02-10-2014, 11:05 AM | #21 (permalink) |
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"Thank you! Anything else i should pick up for this guy while im at it?"
You might pick up the 19 tooth tail pulley, while you are at it. It is not necessary, but it allowed me to increase the gain on the tail a bit, resulting in a more solid feeling/locked-in rudder.
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02-11-2014, 07:31 AM | #22 (permalink) |
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Re: Exploding tail case bearing causes a crash
Isn't the quick turning tail what makes it so solid? At least for me.
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02-11-2014, 08:22 AM | #23 (permalink) |
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Frostwick, how many flights in did this happen?
If you have CF plates, and 17T tail pulley, you likely have the original tail control arm holder. There is an updated version, and there is an upgrade which is aluminum. At minimum, get the update, but the alum version has been recommended to me, so I share that recommendation with you.
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02-11-2014, 11:16 AM | #24 (permalink) |
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"Isn't the quick turning tail what makes it so solid? At least for me."
Good question! It depends on what RPM you are running on the helicopter. At higher RPM, the increased tail speed can make the tail more sensitive and the onset of wag can occur at a lower gyro gain (resulting in a slightly less locked in tail). It you drop the RPM slightly by going to the 19 tooth pulley, you can increase the gain and therefore actually get a better holding tail, even though it is turning more slowly. Many people run the original 17 tooth tail pulley and love it (I think Bob O uses the 17 tooth pulley and prefers it.) . For my purposes, I liked the 19 too better (and I flew it quite a bit both ways). Your experience may be different.
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02-11-2014, 11:25 AM | #25 (permalink) |
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Exploding tail case bearing causes a crash
My tail arm holder snapped in flight, I knew there were upgrades but I didn't believe that part would fail. So now I have the aluminum one along with the updated tail cases.. I also paid a little more for bearings back there. My heli flies so good I don't want to change it at all so I beefed it up
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02-11-2014, 03:41 PM | #26 (permalink) |
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FWIW ... I run the stock 17T tail pulley with 3200rpm headspeeds. I run 60mm CF tail blades.
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02-11-2014, 05:31 PM | #27 (permalink) |
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Re: Exploding tail case bearing causes a crash
Stock also, 3200 max and 2230 a lot for 3d practice and 12 minutes flight times. Tail is rock solid.
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02-11-2014, 06:42 PM | #28 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
I ordered the aluminum side plates and new bearings so i hope that will help. I have the original plastic tail control arm holder.
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02-11-2014, 07:09 PM | #29 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
im using pulse 1350 and im getting like 5ish mins
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02-12-2014, 03:18 AM | #30 (permalink) | |
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Re: Exploding tail case bearing causes a crash
Quote:
It's only 12ish with 2230 or lower rpm but at 2230 I can practice almost anything. Stock motor Pwm10-timing18 yge 5mins I get that with 3200rpm and I still have to fly it wild not to leave 30ish.
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02-12-2014, 05:01 AM | #31 (permalink) |
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Either your bearing was faulty out of the box or it was crooked in the cfk sideplates.
That is the main reason why they brought the aluminum sideplates: lower tolerances on the bearing mounting hole.
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02-14-2014, 05:15 AM | #33 (permalink) |
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Oh, wow. I was expecting you to say more flights.
I'm about to start my build, so this is a good reminder to me about the little details of a build. since you are having to rebuild the tail, you should consider the holder upgrade.
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02-14-2014, 12:30 PM | #34 (permalink) |
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Very true, might as well order the tail pitch lever holder too. Now I just have to figure out how to remove the pin from the tail pulley. I'm not so sure I'm going to be able to get it out.
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02-14-2014, 12:33 PM | #35 (permalink) |
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" Now I just have to figure out how to remove the pin from the tail pulley. I'm not so sure I'm going to be able to get it out."
I press it out with an arbor press. Compass makes a tool for removing it, as did MA, at one time. I think The Bum had a link at one time, to a set of bits designed to press roll-pins out. Always replace the pin when you press it out. You can re-use it (and some due) but they take a set over time and it is a best practice to install a new one (I have used them on R/C helicopters and full-sized cars for almost 40 years).
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02-14-2014, 12:42 PM | #36 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Aug 2010
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An appropriately sized carbide drill bit (that you don't mind potentially damaging) makes for a good drift to tap the roll pin out with.
Take a small chunk of wood and drill a small hole in it ... place the pulley over the hole so that the roll pin will drop into it and gently tap it out with a drift. |
02-14-2014, 03:19 PM | #37 (permalink) | |
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02-14-2014, 03:33 PM | #38 (permalink) |
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Just make sure to use the flat butt of the bit or you run the risk of flaring the roll pin making it more difficult to remove.
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02-22-2014, 03:26 PM | #39 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
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It's a different (and perhaps more expensive) hobby but these work and aren't too expensive.
You'll also find uses for them clean out of left field. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...000025_d_11370 |
02-22-2014, 03:46 PM | #40 (permalink) | |
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