Radikal G30 SE FB to FBL Conversion?

[mike4406]

I'm curious to know if anyone who owns a Rad G30 Carbon SE Flybar'd version has converted to Flybarless?
If so, it would be great if someone could confirm exactly what parts (and Century part numbers) are required?

I have looked at the Century web site and it appears at minimum a new head block is required (part CN2520-2), a pair of FBL radius arms (part 2520-6), and the FBL blade grip arm set (part CN2520-4). Total cost of these parts is 117.95

I'm assuming that we can reuse our existing metal blade grips, feathering spindle etc, but that's just a guess on my part.

Also, Century has part # CN2520-1 which includes both blade grips with bearings and the blade grip arms installed for only 3 bucks more than the cost of buying just the blade grip arms alone. Kinda wondering if that is a typo or really the correct price. That would make the total conversion approx $120.00 and we would have a spare set of blade grips to boot!

[MAXHSHV]

the FBL head also uses the new dampers

http://www.centuryheli.com/products/...&currentid=473
and you will need these new links
http://www.centuryheli.com/products/...&currentid=473

otherwise it looks like you have every thing else
as far as I can tell no typo looks like the cn2520-1 is a great deal.

[Joey.S]

Hi,

I converted my Rad 30SE to fbl using the parts you listed above BUT the new century Fbl dampers 92 Dur did not fit well in the head block. The dampers are to skinny or the hole in the headblock was bored to deep which caused the shim that goes against the headblock to hit the headblock.

So you have to space out the dampers or what I did is I installed KBDD 4111 Blue dampers they are longer and fit in the head perfectly. O ya they fly great also and will last a looooong time. They are made for the Align Trex 600/700 and are hard for Extream 3D flying but like I said they are working very well in my Rad 30 SE

Joe.

[mike4406]

Joe, MAX,

Thanks much for the info. Joe, good info on those KBDD dampers, ironically I installed those 92 duro's on my SE from day one, and I just finished up my 3rd gallon and they are getting very sloppy. (but they did fit nice from the get go)

Also, I may have overlooked one more part, that being the FBL Main Shaft Sleeve (CN 2520-5)? Joe, were you able to reuse the sleeve that came with your FB version? They do look like different parts to me.

appreciate the info,

mike

ps: appears the total cost for the upgrade will come in right at $130.00

[Joey.S]

Hello,
I forgot you DO need a different sleeve for the FBL headblock.

The 92 Dur dampers did fit nice in the stock SE head but in my FBL head the bore where the dampers go in the block is deeper, I don't know why.

Joe

[Joey.S]

Here is a list of the parts I bought..

1- CN2520-2 Yoke
1-CN2520-4 Blade grip arm set
1-CN2520 head block spacer
2- 55mm control rods
1- set of KBDD 4111 Blue dampers.

2 arms that go attached from the head block to the swash plate to phase the swash plate.

Joe

[mike4406]

Joe,

Thanks again for all the info I'm definitely going to try those blue KBDD dampers too.

[James Kovach]

Originally Posted by Joey.S

The 92 Dur dampers did fit nice in the stock SE head but in my FBL head the bore where the dampers go in the block is deeper, I don't know why.

Joe

This was done at my request so that you would have the option of using the Stock Dampers and Aftermarket Dampers that are commonly used on the Trex 600 heads. The Stock Dampers require the spacers, the aftermarkets do not.

When it comes to "tuning" a Flybarless head, the more options you have the better your results. This is also why I asked them to make the ratios adjustable at the blade grip arms. Again, more options, better results.

[Joey.S]

Originally Posted by sparx-

This was done at my request so that you would have the option of using the Stock Dampers and Aftermarket Dampers that are commonly used on the Trex 600 heads. The Stock Dampers require the spacers, the aftermarkets do not.

When it comes to "tuning" a Flybarless head, the more options you have the better your results. This is also why I asked them to make the ratios adjustable at the blade grip arms. Again, more options, better results.

I did not know that the head block was made to take different dampers, Maybe the head block or the century dampers should come with spacers to use the century dampers.

The Century parts are working Great and look well made.
Thanks for the info Sparx.

Joe

[propwashed]

Mike, when you get it all figured out shoot me a PM with the FBL parts list complete!!!!

[apache83]

So I emailed Century Heli because I am interested in the same thing. The response that I got in return is their FBL head Part# CN2520 is a direct plug and play with the standard Radikal G30 drive train minus the additional electronics. Which means the following parts are used on the FBL head:

FLYBARLESS HEAD GRIP & ARM (CN2520-1)
FLYBARLESS ROTOR HEAD YOKE / HUB (CN2520-2)
FLYBARLESS BLADE GRIP ARM SET (CN2520-4)
FLYBARLESS HEAD MAIN SHAFT SLEEVE (CN2520-5)
FLYBARLESS HEAD RADIUS ARM with LINK (CN2520-6)
FEATHERING SHAFT with CENTER BALL (HW6180BS)
RADIUS LINK w/ PIN (2pcs) (HI3152A)
92 DUROMETER HEAD DAMPENERS (HI6181D)
3x8x3 BALL BEARINGS (4pcs) (CNBB0384)
7x15x5 THRUST BLADE GRIP BALL BEARING (1pc) (CNBB715T)
8x16x5 BALL BEARING (CNBB816)
STAINLESS BALLS, 3mm THREAD, SHORT (CNLR1014)
M3x8 BUTTON HEAD CAP SCREWS (CNM3X8BHCS)
M3x10 BUTTON HEAD CAP SCREWS (CNM3X10BH)
M3x12 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREWS (CNM3X12CS)
M3x16 BUTTON HEAD CAP SCREWS (CNM3X16BHCS)
M4x22 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREWS (CNM4X22CS)
M5x10 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREWS (CNM5X10CS)
M5x30 SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREWS (2pcs) (CNM5X30CS)
M3x3 SOCKET HEAD SET SCREWS (CNM3X3SS)
8x13 (6pcs), 8x15 (2pcs) HEAD SHIM SET (HW6182)
BLADE GRIP THRUST WASHERS (2pcs) (HW6183)
M5x10x1 FLAT WASHERS (10pcs) (CNM5X10FW)
3x5x0.5 MICRO WASHERS (CNLR1003)
M3x5x3 SPACERS (HW6205)
M4 LOCKNUTS (CNM4LOCK)
M5 LOCK NUTS (CNM5LOCK)
M2.2 X 55 PUSHRODS (CNLR2255)
BALL LINK SET (26 Long, 4 Short) (HI6145)
FLYBARLESS HEAD DAMPER SPACERS (CN2517A-6)

That being said I would imagine you could match any part numbers you currently have and switch out for the ones that you do not. I myself will probably just purchase the complete head.

[ngin]

Originally Posted by apache83

So I emailed Century Heli because I am interested in the same thing. The response that I got in return is their FBL head Part# CN2520 is a direct plug and play with the standard Radikal G30 drive train minus the additional electronics. Which means the following parts are used on the FBL head:..............
..............That being said I would imagine you could match any part numbers you currently have and switch out for the ones that you do not. I myself will probably just purchase the complete head.

Considering the relatively low cost for the CN2520, I also would just go for it instead of coverting the stok FBL head.

[apache83]

I planned on it for myself, I just wasn't for sure what the post starter was going for.