MSH Protos Build Videos!

[Roadrune]

Originally Posted by Thunder Fighter

I have done this and have also made a small notch (rectagular hole) in the middle of the frames just above where you have mounted the remote rx. I then put the gyro under the tail boom so all of the wires can be feed directly through it, rather than around the side of the frame.

I will be maidening my Protos this week and with the new silver pinion and remote rx mounted down low I am not going to do the other static mods with wires.

//Dennis.

The wires fits fine between the boom-block and the frame, no need to make new holes...

[simmer]

Well Ok Finless, I am right there. (needed a stop point anyhow as I do not wish to press my luck with my better half, she wasn't really excited about the new bird)

So I ran into two issues. Issue one was the front screw on the single servo the one closest to the front of the heli seems stripped. Now I was very very careful thoughout the build to be sure I did not over tighten any screws. But I am pretty sure it stripped. One screw wont be too big a deal I know but as most of us heli guys are, (perfectionists) disapointed. I think you can put a drop of ca? in the screw hole and put the screw back in.

Second issue is the screws left for the landing gear. Either somewhere in the build I placed a wrong screw(s) or I didnt get the proper count in bag b. I have two longer screws for the rear the same but I dont have the 2 (shorter) of the same size) for the front gear. Maybe the two screws on the bottom bearing are the wrong size (this would resolve the gears screw issue but I think I wont then have matching screws for the bottom bearing. Ill pull out my calipers and double check the screw sizes and if needed, go into the extra parts bag.

Other than this all went well. Took my time, read the manual and followed the vids here. I have a true frame and the main shaft slides easily in the three bearings up and down. When I spin it (as the blades would spin) it seems a tad tight, but I would guess this is normal and it will loosen up over time.

maybe 2 hours total, (had to grab a few tools along the way as needed. Lucky me I had the .050 allen wrench for the canopy standoffs in my tool box.(this is a very very small allen wrench.

I may continue without your vids Finless Looks pretty straigh forward.

Oh yeah, I left the servos loose and put the main shaft in as I tightened the frame to get the main shaft to slide up and down easy, and tightened the sides together a little at a time from the center as suggested in the video.

[rcmarty]

simmer ..

the 2 long bolt will be just right when they go thru the boom struts.

Threw me off at first also.

I'm going to be waiting to see bob's take on the tail , i spent 2-3 nights getting it smooth.

MArtin

[Thunder Fighter]

Originally Posted by Roadrune

The wires fits fine between the boom-block and the frame, no need to make new holes...

I did run my tail servo wire there but I wanted to keep the remote rx and wires down low, away from the boom. To stop running the remote rx wires on the outside of the frame I need to make a hole of some sort anyway, so I made it a little bigger and put the gyro leads through as well.

//Dennis.

[simmer]

Was in a rush and simply cut the servo horns down to one before connecting to a receiver. I thought it might not be such a good idea but I wanted to move forward. I suppose I have a 25% chance that the horn will line up to 90 degrees when the receiver arrives later this week. If they dont line up after trying to move them around between the three cyclic servos Ill have to buy new servo horns.

Now I see the third video that points out how to pick the correct position and imediately realized I might have to replace them. A quick search didnt find them online as a separate part number but I am sure they can be had somewhere, (maybe even the local shop)

Yup I did figure out the long ones in the back and what they are for, but I still do not have a matched set for the front. Like one is 8 one is 10 and two are 16 (something like that)

As I mentioned if I pull the two from the bottom bearing and use those for the front, (they seem really long and extend out from the frame a fair amount) I will be left with un matched screws to replace them though.

[povern]

Simmer, Get some Dubro servo arms. They have some that are exactly 16mm and work great.

povern

[simmer]

picked up a set already. Was wondering is there were better (stronger) choices.

[Big Fil]

Oh man Bob, you almost made me spit my lunch up on my monitor when you said "hey not that i'm a tree hugger or anything" in the what's in the box vid. That was classic. Looking forward to seeing the build and your impression of this bird.

[ping]

Originally Posted by povern

Simmer, Get some Dubro servo arms. They have some that are exactly 16mm and work great.

povern

The Dubro arms do have a 16mm hole, however they are much taller then stock nylon horns. As a result they threw off my geometry more then I wanted. On my JR servos the JR HD arms work perfectly.

[povern]

Ping,

What do you mean by the Dubro servo arms are taller?

Isn't 16mm from the center 16mm on any servo arm?

povern

[CatchmyCorsair]

Originally Posted by povern

Ping,

What do you mean by the Dubro servo arms are taller?

Isn't 16mm from the center 16mm on any servo arm?

povern

I think he means the dimension from the bottom of the case to the top of the horn. Overall servo height.

[ping]

Indeed overall servo height about 2-3mm they also sit higher on the spline. It's enough to visibly make the rear linkages look off. The JR arms are http://www.readyheli.com/JR_HD_Servo..._p/jrpa215.htm these arms have a 16.5mm hole.

Of course the easiest way to collect these arms is purchasing 8717's for your future .90 sized heli project

[simmer]

Question on the build, (this might be my missing bolt)

Page 4 part number 50118 self tapping screw. Where does this go?

[CatchmyCorsair]

Originally Posted by simmer

Question on the build, (this might be my missing bolt)

Page 4 part number 50118 self tapping screw. Where does this go?

In the hole on the left frame that is midway down the battery tray. The other holes are molded on the right frame half to accept a nylon locknut. That's the only hole that can accept a self-tapper.

[simmer]

ok got it thanks. Its looking like I may have slipped a 10mm screw where an 8mm should have gone.I am missing a 10 mm screw and have an orphaned 8mm one. (I need two 10mm screws for the front gear, only have one 10 and one 8mm left.

Ill have to go thru the 8mm ones to see if I slipped the 10 in there.

\\ edit... found it! I placed a 10mm in the frame to hold the belt tensioner, where an 8 should have been.

I'll have to be a little more careful.

[povern]

So how will a 2-3 MM servo arm height affect it when flying?

Need to understand, to determine if it is worth buying new arms for my style of flying.

povern

[rcmarty]

You will get some CCPM interactions.

The front link will be a bit off center at the servo (2-3mm) and the side arms will be wider at the base servo horn end.

I used 9650's and some serov arms that came on my 9451's. I had some of the dubro H arms but i did notice there taller on the stanc and didn't use them.

The geometry on the protos is good , onve i leveled my swash with the swash tool , i didn't need to to and leveling at top or bottom at all I even had to do some subtrimming.

MArtin

[ping]

Originally Posted by povern

So how will a 2-3 MM servo arm height affect it when flying?

Need to understand, to determine if it is worth buying new arms for my style of flying.

povern

Don't even consider the Dubro arms IMO. You will need to purchase two packs of them (20 bucks) to get the 3 arms you need. Only reason I even tried them was because I have a parts bin full of orphan arms. The JR HD arms are 2.99 a pack and just as strong.

Don't sweat your arms too much, if they are between 15-17mm they should be fine. Choose whatever is closest to 16mm and go with it.

[Benz_Brake]

nice Bob .....

[simmer]

Cracked canopy, being replaced by my hobby shop. The canopy was shipped in a sectioned off area of the box but apparently did not travel well. Glad they will replace it because it is a really sharp paint job. Love the bright orange. Pictures do not do it justice.

Reminds me of the orange hiway cones. (as in Danger stay back !