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Boomer · 05-07-2004, 12:53 PM

I'm going through my oldest Fury Expert and have found a bit of clutch repair to do. I hope someone like David H. can provide answers.
1) I understand that the shoe to bell clearance should be .006" on each side thus a total of .012". Is this right?
2) Should I grease the clutch driver bearing #120-21?
3) Is there a replacement bearing for the bell without having to buy the bell also? If so, what's the number?
4) I currently have the old 115-41 clutch driver assy. I there any reason to spend the $86 and upgrade to the 120-28?
5) I'm also converting to 8.45 at this time. I obviously need the 11 tooth pinion, but is it worth upgrading to the threaded upper bearing block also?
6) Are we still using red loctite to hold bearings in place?
7) If I buy the 864-10 bell/block/bearing assy, it comes with a liner installed. Is it clearanced correctly or do I still need to have it turned on a lathe?

Thanks for the info! This is why I came to HF. -Scott

DavidH · 05-07-2004, 01:22 PM

Scott,

#1 Yes measure the outside diameter of the clutch, then measure the inside diameter of the liner. You want the inside diameter of the liner to be .010 to .012 more than the outside diameter of the clutch. This will allow you .005 to .006 clearance.

#2 120-21 is a sealed bearing, I do not recommend greasing a sealed bearing. Trying to push grease thru the seals will damage them

#3 Yes the bearing in the clutch bell can be replace. The size is 6mm X 15mm X 5mm ( 105-70)

#4 If the driver assembly you have now is working. There is no reason to change to 120-28. Also the above bearing in #2 ( 120-21) only fits in 120-28 and not 115-41. The bearing in 115-41 is 0183 ( 10mm X 19mm X 5mm) or 0184 is the sealed version. If 115-41 is smooth and working without a problem, do not take it apart.

#5 The upper start shaft block that is threaded is really not much different than the non threaded one. I have an Extreme that has the non threaded one and it works fine. Just don't tighten the thru bolts in the block too tight. They only need to be snug.

#6 I use red and green loctite to hold bearings to shafts and bearing blocks.

#7 Yes 0864-10 will be ready to use. But if your changing gear ratios all you really need is 0864-13 ( 11 tooth pinion with bearing). This will screw right into the clutch bell you have now. The reason with getting the pinion with the bearing installed. Is most likely you will damage the bearing getting it out of the bearing block.

Hope this answers your questions

David

Boomer · 05-07-2004, 01:30 PM

Thanks David. You are an absolute wealth of knowledge.

conrod · 05-07-2004, 05:12 PM

David's da Man!
He know's his stuff...well...he should...he's been around long enough :mrgreen:

05-07-2004, 12:53 PM	#1 (permalink)
Boomer Registered Users Join Date: Apr 2004	Clutch technical questions I'm going through my oldest Fury Expert and have found a bit of clutch repair to do. I hope someone like David H. can provide answers. 1) I understand that the shoe to bell clearance should be .006" on each side thus a total of .012". Is this right? 2) Should I grease the clutch driver bearing #120-21? 3) Is there a replacement bearing for the bell without having to buy the bell also? If so, what's the number? 4) I currently have the old 115-41 clutch driver assy. I there any reason to spend the $86 and upgrade to the 120-28? 5) I'm also converting to 8.45 at this time. I obviously need the 11 tooth pinion, but is it worth upgrading to the threaded upper bearing block also? 6) Are we still using red loctite to hold bearings in place? 7) If I buy the 864-10 bell/block/bearing assy, it comes with a liner installed. Is it clearanced correctly or do I still need to have it turned on a lathe? Thanks for the info! This is why I came to HF. -Scott

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05-07-2004, 01:22 PM	#2 (permalink)
DavidH My HF Map location Join Date: Mar 2004	Scott, #1 Yes measure the outside diameter of the clutch, then measure the inside diameter of the liner. You want the inside diameter of the liner to be .010 to .012 more than the outside diameter of the clutch. This will allow you .005 to .006 clearance. #2 120-21 is a sealed bearing, I do not recommend greasing a sealed bearing. Trying to push grease thru the seals will damage them #3 Yes the bearing in the clutch bell can be replace. The size is 6mm X 15mm X 5mm ( 105-70) #4 If the driver assembly you have now is working. There is no reason to change to 120-28. Also the above bearing in #2 ( 120-21) only fits in 120-28 and not 115-41. The bearing in 115-41 is 0183 ( 10mm X 19mm X 5mm) or 0184 is the sealed version. If 115-41 is smooth and working without a problem, do not take it apart. #5 The upper start shaft block that is threaded is really not much different than the non threaded one. I have an Extreme that has the non threaded one and it works fine. Just don't tighten the thru bolts in the block too tight. They only need to be snug. #6 I use red and green loctite to hold bearings to shafts and bearing blocks. #7 Yes 0864-10 will be ready to use. But if your changing gear ratios all you really need is 0864-13 ( 11 tooth pinion with bearing). This will screw right into the clutch bell you have now. The reason with getting the pinion with the bearing installed. Is most likely you will damage the bearing getting it out of the bearing block. Hope this answers your questions David

05-07-2004, 01:30 PM	#3 (permalink)
Boomer Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: Apr 2004	Thanks David. You are an absolute wealth of knowledge.

05-07-2004, 05:12 PM	#4 (permalink)
conrod Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Apr 2004	David's da Man! He know's his stuff...well...he should...he's been around long enough :mrgreen:

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